Hilarious newbie question

Jan 15, 2010
54
North Dallas, Texas
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Pool is about 8 weeks old, 15,000gal, Peble sheen, run pump about 14hours a day - water clear (looks good) temp at 50, Cleaned filters to get rid of startup gunk about two weeks ago.

Tested my pool using the strip - got somthing like this.

TH - 100
TC 1
FC 10
BR 20
PH 6.8
TA 120
Stabilizer 0

Then used the test kit -
on the Chlorine test add 5 drops #1 - get blood orange color Way high on the measuring kit chart Chart
Do ph test - right at 6.8 - 7.4
Do total Alkalinity test - add one drop #4 and 2 drops #5 - turns clear blue add solution #3 - get to 30 drops - no change at all - so I guess alkalinity is off the chart high

So I plan to add Muriatic acid and hope the sun comes out and reduces the chlorine.

Am I even close on this?

Thanks
 
Why no CYA?

Pebble pools tend to require more acid than plaster pools. Is there a reason that you are waiting for the sun to come out to start adding it?

The chlorine will drop by itself (unless you are producing it or adding it some way!).

Why are you running your pump for so long??
 
Hi Bruce,

So I should add Cyanuric acid not Muratic?

The pool was really very hazy and I have just run it from 6PM through 8am to try and bring clarity - guess I can step it down to 8 or so now. We have had a lot of rain (4 inches) for SAC.

Not adding Chlorine so will just wait for this to disipate

David
 
One more piece of data - Have a SWG - but was advised not to add salt and turn it on until the water gets to 60.

so there is no salt in the pool plan to add in about 4-6 weeks as we get warmer
 
rellumd said:
One more piece of data - Have a SWG - but was advised not to add salt and turn it on until the water gets to 60.

so there is no salt in the pool plan to add in about 4-6 weeks as we get warmer
Hello, welcome to the forum :-D

  • Unless this pool is using some sort of acid start-up procedure (is it?) I wouldn't lower the pH any more with MA.
    The test results you reported seem a little off somehow (mostly the pH range 6.8 - 7.4) What test kit do you use?
    Not sure about a couple of other items: Total Alkalinity -- is it 120? If so, that's fine.
    If the Calcium Hardness (CH) or Total Hardness TH is really only about 100 ppm at some point soon you'll want to boost it.

It's OK not have to salt in your pool until the water temperature warms up enough so you're ready to start the SWG. CYA (Cyanuric acid) is different than MA (Muratic acid) and used for different purposes. Just make sure you have chlorine in the pool until you have an opportunity to add CYA (it helps to maintain your chlorine levels throughout the day). Add MA Muriatic acid when the pH goes up higher than recommended levels.

Please check out ABCs of Chemistry and other articles in Pool School. It'll give you a good sense of how to approach the pool.

Congrats on the new pool!
 
No acid startup procedure

I will add some CYA

Will also look at the CH/TH level and boost that

Yes I believe from the test that TH is 120

Thanks for the help as I work through this - I know it is not really Hilarious - But is probably fairly basic

Thanks

David
 
I suggest you get a top quality test kit, the TF 100 from TFTestKits.net is excellent and the Taylor K-2006 is also a good choice. Accurate test results make a huge difference and will save you way more than the cost of the test kit over time.
 
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