New pool and startup service

[jcourt]

Hi All,
First let me say that this site has been invaluable in providing the guidance during our pool planning and build. I just joined as a lifetime supporter and hope someday to be able to contribute some valuable advice to someone who is currently in my situation as a first-time pool owner.

We are in the startup phase of our pool project and are seeing some water testing gaps between what I test and what the startup guy is reporting. After reading some of the recommendations on the site, I purchased the Taylor K2006C test kit (probably an overkill, but it seems that a little OCD in pool water chemistry goes a long way). I've been testing the water every few days to ensure the water is in balance as recommended by Pebble Tec. Since it's cooler weather now and there's not much swimming to have wide swings in pool chemistry, I thought that this would be a good time to learn to maintain water chemistry.

The only reading where there is a gap between my testing and the startup service is ph. When the water gets to 7.6 to 7.8, I'm adding acid to get it down to the recommended levels (7.4 to 7.6). All other tests are well within range. The pool guy asked me not to add any more acid as the ph is getting low. I saw that he was using a fairly simple test kit so I decided to check my Taylor test kit with the one supplied by the pool builder (home depot kit). The pool builder kit matched my Taylor kit so I'm thinking of continuing what I'm doing and probably maintain the pool myself after the startup period.

Should I take some water to a store for further testing?

Thanks to all.

Jim

 

[duraleigh]

Hi, Jim,

pH testing with the Taylor K2006 I would consider accurate....no need to check further. Your testing will most likely be much more reliable than results from a pool store.....surprising but almost invariably true.

I am curious as to where you are maintaining your FC and CYA levels. Also where you live so we can get an idea of your water temp.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Bring your water sample indoors. Store it in a dark location so it warms up to room temp. Then test it. Curing pH should be between 7.2 and 7.4 for best results. Closer to 7.2 is better for a nice cure. Cold water curing takes longer as will the change results from adding balancing chems. Keep doing what you're doing but do keep the maintenance peeps informed. Keeping a log for maintenance is a good way to track the history.

Scott

 

[Brentr]

Welcome jcourt to TFP . Congrats on your new pool.

 

[jcourt]

Thanks to all for the great info.

Dave,

We're located in Southern California. Water temp is about 58 degrees. FC was low this morning as we had a huge storm yesterday which tested the overflow. FC has been tracking around 2.0ppm. This morning it was .6ppm so i added some stabilized cholorine since we're not switched over to salt until after curing. CYA level has been averaging 70-75.

One other item - the plaster co is coming out next week when curing is complete to drain and re-acid wash the pebble sheen since there are many areas where too much cement is showing and to fix a large blotchy area. They will then re-fill the pool, balance the water, and convert it to salt. Then it's swim time!

 

[duraleigh]

FC was low this morning as we had a huge storm yesterday which tested the overflow. FC has been tracking around 2.0ppm. This morning it was .6ppm so i added some stabilized cholorine since we're not switched over to salt until after curing. CYA level has been averaging 70-75.

I suggest you bring your FC up to 3-5ppm and hold it there constantly....even if that means overriding pebbletec's suggestions. Check the Chlorine/CYA relationship chart in Pool School.

Equally as important, I would not add any more stabilized chlorine for the forseeable future....likely the rest of the season. Use Clorox instead. Your CYA is fine right now but on the verge of being too high and stabilized chlorine will continue to permanently add to your CYA level quickly bringing it to a level that is difficult to manage.

You may find parts of this advice somewhat contrary to what you may read about chlorine from other industry folks like pebbletec. Lots of smart people (not me) on this forum have developed these parameters over a number of years and, simply put, they work. :lol:

 

[Lana537]

A complete drain and fill?

Thanks to all for the great info.

Dave,

We're located in Southern California. Water temp is about 58 degrees. FC was low this morning as we had a huge storm yesterday which tested the overflow. FC has been tracking around 2.0ppm. This morning it was .6ppm so i added some stabilized cholorine since we're not switched over to salt until after curing. CYA level has been averaging 70-75.

One other item - the plaster co is coming out next week when curing is complete to drain and re-acid wash the pebble sheen since there are many areas where too much cement is showing and to fix a large blotchy area. They will then re-fill the pool, balance the water, and convert it to salt. Then it's swim time!

Wow! Did I read this correctly? Your PebbleSheen install was not done well enough the first time around, and therefore you have to have your pool partially if not fully drained, the surface acid washed, and then the pool needs to be completely filled again? (Who cares what the CYA is now, then.)

This has got me a tad worried. We are in the middle of a renovation. We've got Pebble Sheen on order. I was thinking of this dreamy, perfect pool surface in our future. I would keel over if I had to fill our pool twice $$, never mind the crying and disappointment of poor surface/blotches/other horrors and then getting a contractor to re-do it or fix it.

What did your blotches look like?

Oh my! Please keep us up to date. I want to know how your story ends.

Lana

 

[Casey]

Welcome. Sorry to hear that they have to drain your pool. Atleast they are going to try and correct the problem. That's better than nothing.

We'd all love to see it though.

 

[jcourt]

Dave - Thanks for the guidance on the water chemistry. Pebble Tec is silent on FC levels so I'll boost it up to 3.0

Lana - the original acid wash looked good initially, but after the pool was filled, we noticed a little excess cement in the corners. We could still see the pebbles, but it did not look right. Normally, the plaster co could fix this without draining the pool, but as the pool started to cure, we noticed a large blotchy area in the deep end. It did not look horrible, but it didn't look as good as the pools we looked at with Pebble Sheen.

The good news is that the pool builder, plaster company, and Pebble Tec have been all over this. Prior to making final payment on the pool, the plaster company committed to draining the pool and re-acid wash the pool to fix the problems. Not a big deal since it's a one day task and about $60 to re-fill the pool to get the perfect look.

Pics are attached. Thanks to all.

Jim[attachment=1:yqneip5p]DSCN1825.JPG[/attachment:yqneip5p][attachment=0:yqneip5p]DSCN1840.JPG[/attachment:yqneip5p]

 

[Brentr]

Ahhhh yes :-D I rememeber this pool, please listen to the advise on this forum and you will be guided to a Trouble Free Pool
Is it possible to post a pic of the bloched area

 

[jcourt]

It's tough to get a good pic with the reflection on the water. Job should be done next week. Will post update.

Jim

 

[Casey]

What a lovely pool!

 

[jcourt]

Thanks Casey - where are you located in PA? I grew up in the Philly area.

 

[jcourt]

Just a follow-up. The plaster company did a second acid wash on the pool and it now looks great. Just adding the salt and getting the SWG turned on this week.