- Apr 26, 2009
- 419
The manual tells me I need to replace the seal when I change the bulb. Is this needed? Or just a way to sell more expensive pieces of rubber?
TIA
- Jeff
TIA
- Jeff
Light - change bulb, do I HAVE to replace the seal?
- Thread starter taekwondodo
- Start date
Well, it's obviously your pool so if you decide not to replace the seal, that's certainly up to you. However, think about what's it's going to take to replace it later if it gives a problem. Since you're already replacing the light and knowing how heat affects rubber I'd opt to replace it now.
Prior to removing the fixture, ensure power is off and disconnect the power leads in the deck box.
1) Always replace the lens gasket. Failure to do this will likely result in a leaking seal, letting water get into the fixture. This will cause the bulb to blow and can cause the actual socket to corrode. Then, instead of a bulb and gasket, you are buying a fixture.
2) No lube! Just ensure the surfaces are clean, dry and smooth. Tighten the clamp nut to the same place it was.
3) Check for leaks before screwing the fixture back in place. While holding the fixture under water, wipe any air bubbles off and look for any new bubbles forming.
Scott
1) Always replace the lens gasket. Failure to do this will likely result in a leaking seal, letting water get into the fixture. This will cause the bulb to blow and can cause the actual socket to corrode. Then, instead of a bulb and gasket, you are buying a fixture.
2) No lube! Just ensure the surfaces are clean, dry and smooth. Tighten the clamp nut to the same place it was.
3) Check for leaks before screwing the fixture back in place. While holding the fixture under water, wipe any air bubbles off and look for any new bubbles forming.
Scott
I don't normally replace the gasket, unless there is an obvious problem with it :|
However, I just found this thread in my perusal of old topics here
However, I just found this thread in my perusal of old topics here
I always do. Go backs are costly. While Hayward's are generally safer than Pentair, as a rule to do this, I don't like to risk it. Gaskets are not that expensive. I don't stock bulbs on my truck due to breakage so I will have to return anyway, after diagnosing the problem.
Scott
Scott
I ordered a gasket when I replaced the incandescent bulb with an LED for my old Amerlite this past summer. I discovered that the new gasket, being sold now, is thicker than the old one. I could not locate one like the old one after going to several stores. The solution to using the new one is longer stainless steel screws. I was in a hurry to get the new color changing light in so I conditioned the old gasket with non silicone 303 Aerospace Protectant and cleaned up and smoothed the old face plate very well. Then I lubbed it very well. I would not recommend doing it this way.
Mine has not leaked but I think I'm very lucky. Until reading your post I had forgotten that I needed to take light bucket out, disassemble, and measure old screws to order new longer ones. I'm going to order a new faceplate too as the rim, where gasket fits is not in the best shape.
If I were doing it again I would certainly be more patient and use the instructions for proper replacement as the above posts. The color changing LED cost over $100 but I was willing to take the chance. There really isn't a good, valid reason to take that chance. My reason was not good and was not "valid". It was reckless and, as I've said, I've been lucky.
If you have an old Amerlite, or similar, bucket, that is old enough, be aware that you will (or may) need longer screws to accommodate the new gaskets being sold for that type of light. Purchase them in advance.
BTW... Over the years I've had the incandescent bulbs changed a few times by pool guys. We used to keep our pool light on all night. I never saw the inside of bucket till past summer. The plastic socket for bulb was a bit affected by heat. Also the old gasket had deposited a bunch of old rubber on the bucket and cover ring. It took loads of elbow grease and several different types of cleaners and scrubbers to get the old stuff off. That right there points to why you replace the gasket.
gg=alice
Mine has not leaked but I think I'm very lucky. Until reading your post I had forgotten that I needed to take light bucket out, disassemble, and measure old screws to order new longer ones. I'm going to order a new faceplate too as the rim, where gasket fits is not in the best shape.
If I were doing it again I would certainly be more patient and use the instructions for proper replacement as the above posts. The color changing LED cost over $100 but I was willing to take the chance. There really isn't a good, valid reason to take that chance. My reason was not good and was not "valid". It was reckless and, as I've said, I've been lucky.
If you have an old Amerlite, or similar, bucket, that is old enough, be aware that you will (or may) need longer screws to accommodate the new gaskets being sold for that type of light. Purchase them in advance.
BTW... Over the years I've had the incandescent bulbs changed a few times by pool guys. We used to keep our pool light on all night. I never saw the inside of bucket till past summer. The plastic socket for bulb was a bit affected by heat. Also the old gasket had deposited a bunch of old rubber on the bucket and cover ring. It took loads of elbow grease and several different types of cleaners and scrubbers to get the old stuff off. That right there points to why you replace the gasket.
gg=alice
Hmm, sounds like you got the wrong gasket. Pentair part number 79101600 is the correct part.
Scott
Scott
PoolGuyNJ said:
I ordered the one from the breakdown image of pool light. I'll see if I can find the order. When I went to several different pool stores that do customer repairs, every one had the same thicker gasket listed for my light. I carried my old and new gaskets with me.
gg=alice
"Gasket for Pool Light Lens, 8-3/8 in Diameter - 79101600"
79101600 1 $12.85 $12.85
from POOLCENTER. com. Above copied from my email receipt. The gasket was the one that all the pool stores carried also. It was same inside diameter but it is roughly 1/8" thicker or a tiny bit less; just enough that old screws can't catch hold. I even clamped the ring down to the bucket and couldn't get them to catch.
My light bucket may be the original from 1981. As I had the pool guys change the bulbs out before it is possible that my old gasket is the original.
gg=alice
79101600 1 $12.85 $12.85
from POOLCENTER. com. Above copied from my email receipt. The gasket was the one that all the pool stores carried also. It was same inside diameter but it is roughly 1/8" thicker or a tiny bit less; just enough that old screws can't catch hold. I even clamped the ring down to the bucket and couldn't get them to catch.
My light bucket may be the original from 1981. As I had the pool guys change the bulbs out before it is possible that my old gasket is the original.
gg=alice
- Apr 26, 2009
- 419
So - I just finished replacing the lights yesterday... This particular home's pool was built by the owner (un-permitted) and he let it go back to the bank. The new owner had me replace the lights. As it turns out, the previous owner did me no favors - and didn't read the directions when he installed the lights... on one light, there was NO slack (maybe, 2" at most). On the other light, he left about 2' of slack (Pool deck is about 4' up on this side).
Try putting the cover of the light back on (with a new seal) when the light is in its normal "vertical" position with almost no room behind it (and we were unable to pull the cable) took me almost an hour an a half. What a pain! At least on the other one we "floated" a table in the pool so we could have it horizontal (Face down) which made this one about 15 minutes.
We had to drain down below the lights (and we had just re-balanced the pool and borated!).
But now, they work...
Thanks for the help.
- Jeff
p.s., this pool is such a poor design. The Pad is 8' below the pool... have to close every valve when servicing the pump or filter, or you'll get real wet! What's worse, is the floor drain is plumbed separately to the pad, so there is no siphon-break at the skimmer should something at the pad go wrong when no-one is there...
Try putting the cover of the light back on (with a new seal) when the light is in its normal "vertical" position with almost no room behind it (and we were unable to pull the cable) took me almost an hour an a half. What a pain! At least on the other one we "floated" a table in the pool so we could have it horizontal (Face down) which made this one about 15 minutes.
We had to drain down below the lights (and we had just re-balanced the pool and borated!).
But now, they work...
Thanks for the help.
- Jeff
p.s., this pool is such a poor design. The Pad is 8' below the pool... have to close every valve when servicing the pump or filter, or you'll get real wet! What's worse, is the floor drain is plumbed separately to the pad, so there is no siphon-break at the skimmer should something at the pad go wrong when no-one is there...
taekwondodo said:
My pad is about 8 ft below pool decking AND, luckily they did put in valves on all lines coming to it. I like lots of things about it being below grade. Never have to worry about air captivation and priming. And if there ever is a break in a pipe before valves at least mine will drain down the hill to the woods that are starving for water in summer and fall, so the break better happen then.
BUT......... poor design..........
The pad is under the deck in an area that is about 50" vertical. At least it is shaded from the sun BUT............
I have to unhook the filter from the system and drag it down the hill to get the top off when I want to open it. :!: :!: :!:
gg=alice
