greetings tfp i'm rob. my problem starts just after the socal rain that occurred last wed. we just moved "3rd owner" and we don't know about general pool maintenance. but as you can see it's green and would like to start here. later on.
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greetings tfp i'm rob. my problem starts just after the socal rain that occurred last wed. we just moved "3rd owner" and we don't know about general pool maintenance. but as you can see it's green and would like to start here. later on.
Welcome.
In addition to the reading that JohnT suggests, which is a great idea, posting a full set of water test results would be very helpful.
In addition to the reading that JohnT suggests, which is a great idea, posting a full set of water test results would be very helpful.
Welcome, Rob :-Ddeejjoy said:
greetings tfp i'm rob. my problem starts just after the socal rain that occurred last wed. we just moved "3rd owner" and we don't know about general pool maintenance. but as you can see it's green and would like to start here. later on.
The article, Defeating Algae provides a nice overview of how to approach this....
question, i have a tarlor k-2005 but i'm missing cya dispensing "7ml-14ml" bottle for testings and need some sort of trick of the trade. also for shocking the pool can i use my swgs rig to add chlorine along added d.e?
my water test result is noobish so go easy on me.
FC: 0
pH: 8.0 <---alittle darker
TA: 90
CH: 20 - after adding 20xr-0010 and 5xr-0011l the water color a light pink or from color sample reading between 2&3 in Br. next i follow through with r-0012 by 10 and doesn't turn blue so thoughts are high in CH? so i tried smaller 10ml test and added 5 drops, i know i know my fault not swirling after a drop.
CYA: n/a
my water test result is noobish so go easy on me.
FC: 0
pH: 8.0 <---alittle darker
TA: 90
CH: 20 - after adding 20xr-0010 and 5xr-0011l the water color a light pink or from color sample reading between 2&3 in Br. next i follow through with r-0012 by 10 and doesn't turn blue so thoughts are high in CH? so i tried smaller 10ml test and added 5 drops, i know i know my fault not swirling after a drop.
CYA: n/a
From what you said, it sounds like your CH level might be 125, but you didn't explain what you did clearly enough for me to be sure. CH certainly isn't 20. It is very common for the CH test to take more than 10 drops of R-0012, twenty, thirty, even forty drops are all fairly common. You should do that test again and be patient and see how many drops it really takes to turn blue.
Before fighting algae, it is best to lower your PH to around 7.4. You don't need to hit a PH of 7.4 exactly, anything from 7.2 to 7.6 will be fine.
Getting a CYA reading is important. If all you are missing is the mixing bottle, it is fairly easy to rig up something else. You just need equal quantities of pool water and reagent and a way to pour it into the view tube fairly slowly. If you have a dropper bottle that is empty you can figure out what half full is and mark it and then use that, or rig something else up.
Chlorine and D.E. have nothing to do with each other. I get why you are asking about chlorine, but I don't understand the reference to D.E. Perhaps you could explain that.
A SWG is not suitable for shocking. When shocking you need to add chlorine very quickly to get up to shock level. A SWG is designed to add chlorine slowly, which isn't what you want. You can use the SWG to supplement the chlorine you add manually. Bleach is usually the simplest way to add chlorine quickly. Be sure to get a CYA reading first, so you can calculate the amount of chlorine to add.
Before fighting algae, it is best to lower your PH to around 7.4. You don't need to hit a PH of 7.4 exactly, anything from 7.2 to 7.6 will be fine.
Getting a CYA reading is important. If all you are missing is the mixing bottle, it is fairly easy to rig up something else. You just need equal quantities of pool water and reagent and a way to pour it into the view tube fairly slowly. If you have a dropper bottle that is empty you can figure out what half full is and mark it and then use that, or rig something else up.
Chlorine and D.E. have nothing to do with each other. I get why you are asking about chlorine, but I don't understand the reference to D.E. Perhaps you could explain that.
A SWG is not suitable for shocking. When shocking you need to add chlorine very quickly to get up to shock level. A SWG is designed to add chlorine slowly, which isn't what you want. You can use the SWG to supplement the chlorine you add manually. Bleach is usually the simplest way to add chlorine quickly. Be sure to get a CYA reading first, so you can calculate the amount of chlorine to add.
so once i have proper ph/cya readings i can add right x amount of chlorine to my pool but before that you mentioned d.e has no part other from what i partially know that it helps in filter department but where do i add d.e too. argh once i get this far i should be on track.
deejjoy said:
You should take a look at this article:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/use-and-care-for-de-filters-t4086.html
before promptly taking actions should i wait until spring. thank you guys, the pool school well planned for newcomers like me.
Well, of course that's up to you but spring comes fairly soon in Southern California. Recommend not letting your water get to 65 or 70 before taking action. It will still be possible to clean up a mess but it will take longer...deejjoy said:
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