I have some stripped loop loc anchor screws. Do i have to buy the whole mech, including socket or can i just by the screw? They are like $6 each if i have to buy both. Any help?
Loop Loc Anchors
- Thread starter Thinkly
- Start date
I'm pretty sure you can buy just the screw.
Wow, how did it get stripped? Those are some pretty heavy duty screws. Your pool is still closed, isn't it?
Wow, how did it get stripped? Those are some pretty heavy duty screws. Your pool is still closed, isn't it?
the brass anchor assembly is sold as one piece which is the "screw" and the "casing". I understand where you are coming from, but this usually isn't a problem for most professionals since when the anchor becomes stripped or stuck the tool designed to replace the anchor extracts the "screw" and "casing" together and the new brass anchor assembly is hammered into the concrete hole. Your best bet might be to contact loop-loc directly, search ebay, or maybe find a neighbor who already had a loop-loc cover and had it replaced since the new covers come with new anchors he might have some extra.
X-PertPool said:
Learn something new every day. Good to know. I was just going by the fact the pool builder i use has the screws at his shop for sale. He must have had a bunch of extras and keeps them in the store.
Anchors are made of brass so they don't corrode. Brass is a soft alloy. When people don't clean out the anchors at least once a year (or more in paver installations) with plain water and a toothbrush to get the dirt out, they will seize. The Allen key is usually hardened steel. Soft metal vs Hard metal and torque, guess who wins.
WD40 and other spray lubes may attract dirt, don't use them!
Scott
WD40 and other spray lubes may attract dirt, don't use them!
Scott
PoolGuyNJ said:
loop-loc recommends a silicon spray, and I agree I think it works it drys quickly and leaves a water resistance coating that isn't sticky.
I can see that I'll have to x-link some of my advice for safety cover anchors :lol:
I posted this in the 'closing an IG pool' thread
Honestly... some of these new pool dudes need to learn how to use the search function
Just kidding Kevin and Scott, y'alls' advice is always GREAT and more than welcome
I posted this in the 'closing an IG pool' thread
waste said:
Honestly... some of these new pool dudes need to learn how to use the search function
Just kidding Kevin and Scott, y'alls' advice is always GREAT and more than welcome
My question relates to replacing currently stripped screws. Specifically to replacing just the screw and not the anchor as well. The search function didn't seem to provide me with that answer. Regardless, this is my first year in this house and upon pool closing, it became obvious that several of the heads were already damaged from previous years.
I was able to get most of them up enough to lock the cover springs but had to improvise on a couple by screwing a lag screw into the soft stripped brass head and then putting the loop over the screw head.
So I know when it comes time to screw them back down i have problems. I plan to use a screw extractor to get them out. Just was hoping to avoid dropping $6 per screw. I have over 30 at least on the pool and an unknown number that will actually have to be replaced. I also plan to put anti sieze on the threads to avoid future trouble.
I was able to get most of them up enough to lock the cover springs but had to improvise on a couple by screwing a lag screw into the soft stripped brass head and then putting the loop over the screw head.
So I know when it comes time to screw them back down i have problems. I plan to use a screw extractor to get them out. Just was hoping to avoid dropping $6 per screw. I have over 30 at least on the pool and an unknown number that will actually have to be replaced. I also plan to put anti sieze on the threads to avoid future trouble.
As was said earlier, either nothing or silicone spray (let dry!) or you will capture dirt and seize again. Clean them at least annually. To speed it up, I use a screw driver bit turned backwards in my cordless drill to raise and lower them. Turn the clutch down when lowering so as not to torque them down.
Scott
Scott
gkruske
0
- Aug 7, 2009
- 220
I have a couple that are stripped, but am still able to crank them down during the season.
It was evident during my first time opening/closing that these lugs had never been 'serviced'. On closing last fall, I took the whole lug out, rinsed them off in a big cup of water, scrubbed the channel with a toothbrush, dried off, and smeared NAPA's house brand of gen. purpose grease on them (Sli-Glide). I keep this on hand for automotive purposes, but really works wonders on a ton of other things. Goes on thick, doesn't get sticky like a lithium grease. WD-40 is too thin, and is more for unsticking things, and doesn't really have any staying power. Same goes for silicone.
It was evident during my first time opening/closing that these lugs had never been 'serviced'. On closing last fall, I took the whole lug out, rinsed them off in a big cup of water, scrubbed the channel with a toothbrush, dried off, and smeared NAPA's house brand of gen. purpose grease on them (Sli-Glide). I keep this on hand for automotive purposes, but really works wonders on a ton of other things. Goes on thick, doesn't get sticky like a lithium grease. WD-40 is too thin, and is more for unsticking things, and doesn't really have any staying power. Same goes for silicone.
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