I am testing my pool now for the first time, my pool builder has been running the poo

[madtv126]

Sorry trying to post from pool math app

I am testing for the first time as my builder will be stopping his care in another 3 weeks.

Below are my numbers and I did add some muaritic acid to lower pH. My pH numbers are high. I have to run the shears and spill over due to freeze protection.

These numbers were taken with a TF test kit.

He is using tri-chlor tabs until he can add salt.

==========================================
Gray
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Build Type: Plaster
Volume: 24000 gallons
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Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 2.0 (an hour ago)
CC: 0.0 (an hour ago)
pH: 8.6 (an hour ago)
TA: 60 (an hour ago)
CH: 125 (an hour ago)
CYA: 0 (an hour ago)
TEMPERATURE: 35° (an hour ago)
CSI: 0.09 (an hour ago)
==========================================
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Chemical Addition 12-09-2018 @ 05:19 PM
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+ 34 FluidOunces of Baume31

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Test Results 12-09-2018 @ 04:47 PM
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Free Chlorine: 2.0
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 8.6
Total Alkalinity: 60
Calcium Hardness: 125
CYA: 0
Temperature: 35°F
CSI: 0.09

------------------------------------------
Maintenance 12-09-2018 @ 04:47 PM
------------------------------------------
Vacuumed, Brushed

 

[kimkats]

Here is the link showing the range your numbers should be and the link to show what we use to move each number:
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Next lets talk about salt......most SWG do not in water temps below 60 or so. Adding salt now would be a waste of time and effort. Your pool needs to be a chlorine pool during the burrr times. You can keep using the pucks for now as they will help raise your CYA and help suppress the pH a bit.

pH-how did you get the results of 8.6 for the pH? My pH reader only goes to 8.0 so.....

Know as you lower the pH you will also be pushing the TA down so keep a close eye on that.

I like that you are keeping tabs on your csi. Know the water temp will have a big impact of the csi so keep an eye on it as well.

Now go lower the pH and keep the fc going!

Kim

 

[madtv126]

I used a pH meter that was included in my TF test kit to get to the number.

Thanks for the advice. Should I be concerned about the calcium numbers?

 

[kimkats]

Has the CH gone up much from the original fill? If not then you do need to push them up to get within the proper range. Sorry I missed that one.

 

[madtv126]

My fill water had no CH so yes it has gone up but I am wondering does it need to go up more.

 

[jimim]

Re the digital meter. To be accurate u have to calibrate it with a buffer solution. The temps have to be the same or the reading will be off. Meaning. If buffet solution is 70. Test sample to be close to 70.

Use the drop tester the set came with and get ur ph on the board and go from there. So if the reading is above 8.2. You don’t knew where it actually is so assume it’s 8.2 and add to take u down to whatever level u want. Retest in a bit. Once it’s on the board finextune it. That way u won’t add too much and make it too low.

 

[madtv126]

Perfect great idea thanks Jim I will do that now.

Is there any issue with testing pH of 37degree water.

Josh

 

[jimim]

With the drop test kit no. Only cya is affected by water temp as far as I remember. Someone correct me if I’m wrong. Keep the digital meter for summer or u will be water bath warming pool water.

So so do the test. If it’s brighter than the highest reading assumexthat reading. Only add acid to get u down to what u want. Wait. Retest if still off grid so the same till u get the reading on the grid and fine tune. That’s how I was taught with my pool coach when I did my plaster and was getting ph in control. That way u don’t overshoot and drop it too low cause if it’s off the grid u really don’t know how far off.

Good luck!