New Pool, Day 3 and First Test Results

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nicheel

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Aug 14, 2018
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Litchfield Park, AZ
We finished filling our pool on Wednesday, set up guy showed up and got us going until our orientation next week. Our pool is 11,500 gal, plaster, non saltwater.

Our PB set the pump to run 20 hours a day and instructed me to brush 2x a day - the more the better. It was cloudy for a day and a half and now its clear.

This afternoon I took my first test and here are the numbers.

PH 8.2
FC 0.5
CC 0
CH 300
TA 130
CYA - unable to get a reading
Pool Temp 64

I also used the AquaChek test strip they left and here are the results.

Cyanuric Acid 0
Total Alkalinity 80
PH 6.8
Free Chlorine 0.5
Total Chlorine\Bromine 0
Total Hardness 100

 
Throw out the test strips.....they are worthless to you and will mislead you.

Why can't you get a CYA reading? Does the tube stay clear? That's zero CYA.

Immediately raise your FC to 2-3 ppm until you get us a valid CYA test result.
 
Congrats on the new pool! :swim: Along with what Dave said, you should also stock plenty of muriatic acid as the curing plaster will push your pH up & up quickly until the curing process is complete. That can take a few months. It would be best to keep your pH in the mid-7 range. Each time you lower the pH, it should also lower the TA a bit which should also help control that number as well. You don't want the pH climbing too high as that can quickly lead to scale - especially in your area with hard water. Your CH is good right now, but with seasonal refills it will climb fast. Maintaining the pH will do your pool good.

Make sure to add what test kit you are using to your signature.
 
Thanks for the great info. Signature updated.

Which chemicals should add first and in what order? For example, After putting my numbers in PoolMath, it states to add muriatic acid to lower my pH. Is that all I add for now and how long should I wait to stabilize the pH before stabilizing another?

How much acid should I stock?
 
You should first add some liquid chlorine to raise your FC. Then add your muriatic acid to lower your pH. Space them out by 15 minutes or so with the pump running. Always add liquid chemicals into the pool at a pool return with the pump running. Add them slowly. Pencil size stream is best.

I buy acid from Home Depot in the box with 2 gallons in it. In the garden section with the pool stuff. Be sure sure it is the 31.45% strength. Normally $11.88 for the box.
 
What has been added to the pool since you filled it? If nothing has been added, then you wouldn't have a CYA reading. That needs to be added since it isn't in new water.

I guess the question is. "What did the setup guy do to 'get you going'"?
 
I have added nothing since the pool was filled. Not sure what chemicals the setup guy added. He threw in several cups of some white granules and 3 chlorine tablets in the floating device. (Didn't see any liquids) Then installed the pool vacuum, skimmer, auto fill, setup the pump, made adjustments and swept the pool.

CYA = 0, water is just clear
 
In addition to the notes above, the pucks that were used may have added a little stabilizer, but you'll want to have a CYA of at least 30.
Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Click to expand...
CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. If it helps, pour a little, look away, then look back and pour some more. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading. If you are still questioning your own results, have a friend or two do the same test 2-3 times. Share your results only after everyone is done to see if you came up with the same average results.
Click to expand...
 
1. Calculate and add enough CYA to get to 30 as above

2. Calculate and add enough liquid chlorine to get to 4-5 ppm

3. Calculate and add enough muriatic acid to lower it to get to 7.4 or thereabouts. (any mid-7's is just fine)

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.

With a clear pool, that should get you in balance. Read that article so you can understand why you are making these changes. Ask questions.

Test again pretty soon (like tomorrow) to see if your additions yielded the correct results.

Post back with the new test results
 

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Based on this morning's test results, I would first add a bit more chlorine/regular bleach. Get that FC up to about 4 or 5, never below 2 to avoid algae. For algae control, always refer to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Everything else is fine for now while your plaster continues to cure. But keep an eye on the pH and FC just about every day for a while. You should begin to see a pattern as time goes on. Nice job.
 
nicheel said:
We finished filling our pool on Wednesday, set up guy showed up and got us going until our orientation next week. Our pool is 11,500 gal, plaster, non saltwater.

Our PB set the pump to run 20 hours a day and instructed me to brush 2x a day - the more the better. It was cloudy for a day and a half and now its clear.

This afternoon I took my first test and here are the numbers.

PH 8.2
FC 0.5
CC 0
CH 300
TA 130
CYA - unable to get a reading
Pool Temp 64

I also used the AquaChek test strip they left and here are the results.

Cyanuric Acid 0
Total Alkalinity 80
PH 6.8
Free Chlorine 0.5
Total Chlorine\Bromine 0
Total Hardness 100
Click to expand...

All else being equal, a pump running 20-hours/day seems pretty excessive unless it's a variable speed pump running at a very reduced speed.
 
I'm starting to get used to testing. I took out the pucks and starting using liquid bleach. When I start testing daily for pH and Chlorine, what should my goal be for Chlorine? I'm avg 3 right now.

PH 7.5
FC 4.0
CH 300
TA 120
CYA 30
CSI -0.23
Temp 54
 
what should my goal be for Chlorine? I'm avg 3 right now.
Click to expand...
Always refer to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Based on your current CYA of 30, you can see an ideal FC is in that 4-6 range. Never below 2. The cooler water is also helping to keep organic activity from accelerating. You're in good shape.

You might double check the CSI you're showing. On my end I'm seeing closer to -0.1 when I enter your latest numbers which isn't quite as aggressive as what you are showing. Just to make sure. :wink:
 
I've been using the Pool Math app for the last week and it's really easy to use. Everyone was right about a new pool, pH keeps rising.

PH 7.8
FC 3.5
CH 275
TA 110
CYA 30
CSI 0.00
Temp 50

I have a question about the Taylor Total Chlorine and pH test kit. Is it just me or the colors really close? Or I'm I just being too picky. The yellow above 1 looks all the same to me.
 

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