to drain or not to drain

Jan 3, 2010
102
Claremont california
Hello,
My name is George. This is my first post. I have my first pool, so I am a newbie at all aspects of pool ownership. The pool is a plaster 32k gallon in ground with a 1hp older pump. A medium-size Pentair ED filter and a gas heater make up the rest of the filtration/heating system.
I am in the process of removing the algae in the pool. I read much informative post in this forum regarding the removal of the algae. At this time, there are lots of leaves at the bottom of the pool. The color of the water is so green that you cannot see the bottom of the 10 feet deep end.
It took about 2 months of neglect along with several days of heavy rains and very strong winds that left a lot of tree debris to get the water to its current state.
I am thinking very strongly to just drain all the water and make some scratch repairs to the bottom of the pool along with removing calcium that is currently present on the walls of the pool. Before I drain the pool, I wanted to get some feedback regarding this procedure and the cost of this project.
I am very handy in general construction but taking on this pool project is something NEW to me.
I welcome any input from any one regarding the pros and cons of draining or partial draining of the pool.
The following are results from my local pool dealer water test.
CYA = 100
FAC = 0
TAC = 0
PH =8.2
TA =120
CALCIUM HARDNESS=470
TBS = 1100
PLASTER POOL 32K GALLONS LOCATED IN CLAREMONT CALIFORNIA.
I THANK YOU IN ADVANCE,
GEORGE
 
photo2u said:
CYA = 100
PH =8.2
TA =120
CALCIUM HARDNESS=470
TBS = 1100
PLASTER POOL 12K GALLONS LOCATED IN CLAREMONT CALIFORNIA.
Welcome to the forum, George :cool:

You're going to be fairly busy getting that pool in shape, regardless of how soon you drain it for repairs. On that subject I'd just suggest that it might be a peculiar time of year to be thinking of draining all of the water. You know how California weather is, dry for many weeks followed by rain that never seems to let up. If you drained the pool and rain came quickly enough, it could saturate the earth, lifting your pool up out of the ground. Not good. If it were my pool, I'd wait for late spring to start a project like that. (If you just plan to drain some of the water that wouldn't necessarily pose the same danger.)

If you've read many of the threads here you already know that careful testing of the water is key to effective treatment. It's much harder to successfully fight algae when you have to keep running to the pool store with water samples for test results that may -- or may not -- be accurate. So my initial recommendations are

1) Buy a good test kit (e.g. Taylor K-2006 or TF-100);

2) Read, or print out and then read, the articles in Pool School that will most help you get your water issues in line:

3) Begin clearing debris out of the pool, vaccuum, backwash the filter (so that the algae will have less to munch on) and begin treating the water. You'll want to know your Free Chlorine level, which is very likely about zero now, and correct the pH balance: 8.2 is too high. At some point you may want to drain off some of the water to reduce CYA, but first things first. :-D

Post back here with any question you have. Lots of good people here who like helping others.
 
polyvue said:
photo2u said:
CYA = 100
PH =8.2
TA =120
CALCIUM HARDNESS=470
TBS = 1100
PLASTER POOL 12K GALLONS LOCATED IN CLAREMONT CALIFORNIA.
Welcome to the forum, George :cool:

You're going to be fairly busy getting that pool in shape, regardless of how soon you drain it for repairs. On that subject I'd just suggest that it might be a peculiar time of year to be thinking of draining all of the water. You know how California weather is, dry for many weeks followed by rain that never seems to let up. If you drained the pool and rain came quickly enough, it could saturate the earth, lifting your pool up out of the ground. Not good. If it were my pool, I'd wait for late spring to start a project like that. (If you just plan to drain some of the water that wouldn't necessarily pose the same danger.)

If you've read many of the threads here you already know that careful testing of the water is key to effective treatment. It's much harder to successfully fight algae when you have to keep running to the pool store with water samples for test results that may -- or may not -- be accurate. So my initial recommendations are

1) Buy a good test kit (e.g. Taylor K-2006 or TF-100);

2) Read, or print out and then read, the articles in Pool School that will most help you get your water issues in line:

3) Begin clearing debris out of the pool, vaccuum, backwash the filter (so that the algae will have less to munch on) and begin treating the water. You'll want to know your Free Chlorine level, which is very likely about zero now, and correct the pH balance: 8.2 is too high. At some point you may want to drain off some of the water to reduce CYA, but first things first. :-D

Post back here with any question you have. Lots of good people here who like helping others.


Thanks so much for your help and advice! I called my water company and the total cost to refill a 32k gallon pool will be 175.00.

I truly want to drain the entire pool to give it a very good cleaning. Also, I would really like to repair of some chlorin tablet damage at the bottom surface. I also noticed some black spots that just do not come clean with the brush.

Thanks again,

George
 
Welcome to TFP.

Draining a pool is a major undertaking, and has its risks. You can clear it up with nothing but chlorine, patience and a good test kit. There is no pool too stinking green and disgusting to clean up with our method. My pool was so nasty a couple of years ago that my hands still stunk from the water even after I took a shower. Any pool can be green to clean in two weeks without draining.
 
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