Spa pipe leak

Dec 20, 2009
4
How fix spa leak at connector of flexible pvc pipe, covered with urethane foam? Foam makes pipe adherent to other pipes to jets, etc. and would be very difficult to free enough pipe on each side of connector to replace. Drip from connection of pipe to coupling doesn't increase when pump on. Is there a chemical to dissolve urethane foam for easier access? Thanks.
 
The foam has to be physically removed. I've prayed and prayed for a spray on magic foam dissolver, but alas it has never appeared. The best solution I've ever used is a pressure washer, but that's not right for every application, and some pressure washers would obviously be too powerful.

So, you'll have to start digging... It's not fun. You can either go with your bare hands or you can carefully use a tool to take out larger chunks of foam. Just mind the plumbing, shell, etc.

Once you've got the entire fitting and plumbing leading up to it exposed it would be very helpful if you could post a picture of it, pointing out where the leak is and what size the plumbing is.
 
Thanks, Spishex, for helping me with my leak.
I've got end of fitting with drip leak exposed. There's still a thin layer of foam adherent to pipe, and I planned on sanding it to make pipe smooth. Does every bit of foam have to be removed before any sealant can be applied (do any external sealants work)? Fitting is a tee that probably is attached to jet inside tub. 3/4" flexible pipe it attached to the tee.
Are you familiar with Plast-Aid external sealant or Seal-a-Leak (www.spadepot.com)?
Thanks, Mike
 
An external patch might work if you get the area very clean and do it with the tub empty (not leaking). The ideal fix would be to either replace the Tee completely if there's enough pipe exposed between the Tee and the jet to glue on a new fitting, or remove and replace the pipe on the leaking side of the Tee.
You can usually remove small diameter flexible pipe like that from leaking fittings pretty easily with a little heat and some patience. Sometimes just squeezing the flex pipe with sme pliers as close to the fitting as you can get without crushing it will do the job. Other times you have to use a small blade to slowly cut it free from the inside.
 
Thanks again for your help! I'm going to try removing pipe from leaking end of tee. Do you use hot air gun to heat connection? (Like the one used to remove wall paper; I think heats to around 1200 degrees) What size and type of "sme pliers" do you use? Should I insert a small knife blade between glued pipe inside tee and the tee housing, after heating area? Any other technique tips?
Mike
 
I use a heat gun set very low, and be careful not not to melt anything. As for the plyers, the flatter the jaws the better. You want to be able to pinch the pipe as far in from the walls of the tee as possible. Squeeze it once from top to bottom, then again from side to side to loosen up all the walls. Then give it a gentle twist. If it doesn't come out, cut the pipe flush with the fitting and use a blade or a small flathead to work the pipe free.
 
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