Wet Edge Satin Matrix start up

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bbrock

bbrock

Well-known member
Apr 15, 2014
848
Livermore, CA
Pool Size
19000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi TFP'ers,
In about a month, we'll be having our pool resurfaced. Instead of going with plaster, we chose to go with Wet Edge Satin Matirx Cool Blue Wet Edge | Products | Cool Blue. That is their smaller aggregate.

I am trying to gather all the necessary supplies/equipment.

On 7/20/18, my fill water tested as: pH >8.2, TC/OTO chlorine 1.0, TA 60, CH 75-100. I'll probably test my fill water again before the fill.

Burkett's Pool Plastering, the pool contractor, includes the initial water balancing after filling, but I intend to still get supplies to keep on hand. I know on the fill they add metal sequesterant, but I will not be continuing that b/c when I had my fill water and pool water tested, no metals were detected. Unless there is a good reason not to have them add the metal sequesterant, I will let them.

I plan to:
*Get more CYA granules
*I have baking soda
*I'll get more 31.45% MA and 12.5% chlorine from the pool store
*Will get more borax to keep on hand to raise my pH. However, w/ fill water w/ pH >8.2, I don't think that will be the problem
*I have a Wall Whale on a nylon brush and a new silt net, (Amazon.com : ProTuff 17 Outdoor)
*For 30 days, I will not use my Maytronics S200 robot

I am unsure if I should borrow or buy a manual vacuum for those 30 days. While I will be brushing daily or 2x per day for the 1st week, and then daily for the rest of the month, I am not sure if I should bother with a manual vacuum. Should I be concerned about fine debris that settles to the bottom? Is it good enough/okay to simply use my pool net to net across the bottom to remove debris? It is a plastic head net, but I don't want to mar the surface. Is a new aggregate surface that sensitive to marring?

If I do have to vacuum, Wet Edge recommends to use a vinyl head. So, I'd have to obtain that, plus the tubing.

Also, Wet Edge recommends to use a combo brush. Is that necessary, or is nylon okay? Wouldn't a combo be too abrasive?

I rinsed/cleaned my cartridge filters about a month ago, but will do again prior to the work.

And, watching the Wet Edge Startup at YouTube, 28 Day Pool Start Up - YouTube, it was mentioned to wrap a towel around the end of the fill water hose so that it can catch/absorb any metals coming through hose/fill water. Although I don't have any metals in the water, this doesn't seem like a bad idea regardless.

These are the actual Wet Edge Start Up instructions: http://wetedgetechnologies.com/files/28_Start_Up_Instructions.pdf

Burkett's has their own, but Wet Edge's are more comprehensive.

Please comment if this plan sounds good thus far.
 
You won't need to worry about raising your pH. It will rise by itself and you'll be knocking it down for months.

I would also avoid a combo brush until the plaster is cured. I used a Wall Whale with nylon brush also and it seemed fine.

I wouldn't bother cleaning filter cartridges if you recently cleaned them. You will definitely need to clean them, probably more than once, after the new plaster is in.

I never had any success with the super-fine mesh net. In my experience, it was too fine and only pushed water ahead of it without trapping any debris. You will want to vacuum unless you have really good suction at your main drain to brush into. My main drain is plumbed to the skimmer, so not a lot of suction there. My pool is too big for manual vacuuming to be attractive, so I bought one of these autonomous vinyl vacuums. It worked pretty well at cleaning up plaster dust, but failed at anything bigger than a small pebble, so I haven't used it since. Go halfsies with me on the cost and you can have it. You can download its user manual from the page in the link and see if you maybe want it. PM me if you don't want to clutter this thread with those details.
 
Yes, that vacuum will work. Maybe better than mine, but I wasn’t willing to pay triple for something I’d use for one month.

You’ll get a workout brushing, trust me, no need for more manual labor vacuuming.
 
I hear that Rocket. Since adding Ghostlight (our Maytronics S200 robot) to or family over 1 yr ago, I stopped brushing. It’s gonna be hard enough brushing for 1 month.

I forgot to ask did in my first post, Wet Edge had recommended to begin brushing in opposite directions each time. One time brush from shallow to deep, and the next time reverse it. Is that necessary?

When I used to brush it was always easier and my routine to start with the steps and then work towards the deep end.
 
In those Wet Edge instructions I provided in post #1, it has some interesting calculation to determine your "True TA." Here it is:
TO OBTAIN THE TRUE TOTAL ALKALINITY DIVIDE YOUR
CYANURIC ACID (CYA) READING BY 3. THEN SUBTRACT
THAT NUMBER FROM YOUR ALKALINITY READING.
Example:
Alkalinity 80
CYA 90 90/3=30
80 – 30 = 50
True Total Alkalinity is actually 50
THIS READING WOULD BE CONSIDERED TOO AGGRESSIVE

Is this just nonsensical? I'll be using Pool Calc of course. I never even heard of such a calculation.
 
Re: that Zodiac Barracuda, when can I use it? Is it too soon to put in after pool has been filled? Or, better to wait until at least Day 2 and let it just keep going for the 1st month?

Couple other questions:
1. I typically pour my liquid chemicals (i.e. MA or chlorine) via a graduated cylinder in front of a return when pump is on. Could I still do it that way, or would it be better to have my 5 gal. bucket filled w/ pool water and add to that, and then pour that 5 gal. bucket in the pool in front of a return?

2. Although the Wet Edge Start Up instructions show to add chlorine on Day 7, in the 28 Day Wet Edge Start Up video I linked in post #1 and the start up instructions supplied by Burkett's, it states to add chlorine on Day 5. I'm inclined to use Day 5 as the mark to add chlorine. That okay? The video had recommended to float 1 puck until sanitizer is added. Is that really necessary? Can't I just wait until Day 5?
 
bbrock said:
I hear that Rocket. Since adding Ghostlight (our Maytronics S200 robot) to or family over 1 yr ago, I stopped brushing. It’s gonna be hard enough brushing for 1 month.

I forgot to ask did in my first post, Wet Edge had recommended to begin brushing in opposite directions each time. One time brush from shallow to deep, and the next time reverse it. Is that necessary?

When I used to brush it was always easier and my routine to start with the steps and then work towards the deep end.
Click to expand...

I don't know about the brushing direction. They probably think you'll poop out toward the end and want you to brush the pool evenly. Honestly, they should be happy I brushed at all, given my tendency toward extreme laziness. Thankfully, it didn't take too long for the plaster to stop shedding.
 
bbrock said:
In those Wet Edge instructions I provided in post #1, it has some interesting calculation to determine your "True TA." Here it is:
TO OBTAIN THE TRUE TOTAL ALKALINITY DIVIDE YOUR
CYANURIC ACID (CYA) READING BY 3. THEN SUBTRACT
THAT NUMBER FROM YOUR ALKALINITY READING.

Is this just nonsensical? I'll be using Pool Calc of course. I never even heard of such a calculation.
Click to expand...

I wonder about this also. It seems to imply that CYA, an acid, is causing the alkalinity reading to be higher than it should. Beats me.

My TA has been high (around 130) since the guys I hired to help me start up the pool dumped in too much alk. This was just before I discovered TFP. So if I can magically reduce TA by 1/3 of my 40 CYA, that's fine. Wet Edge must know more about this than I do.
 
bbrock said:
Re: that Zodiac Barracuda, when can I use it? Is it too soon to put in after pool has been filled? Or, better to wait until at least Day 2 and let it just keep going for the 1st month?

Couple other questions:
1. I typically pour my liquid chemicals (i.e. MA or chlorine) via a graduated cylinder in front of a return when pump is on. Could I still do it that way, or would it be better to have my 5 gal. bucket filled w/ pool water and add to that, and then pour that 5 gal. bucket in the pool in front of a return?

2. Although the Wet Edge Start Up instructions show to add chlorine on Day 7, in the 28 Day Wet Edge Start Up video I linked in post #1 and the start up instructions supplied by Burkett's, it states to add chlorine on Day 5. I'm inclined to use Day 5 as the mark to add chlorine. That okay? The video had recommended to float 1 puck until sanitizer is added. Is that really necessary? Can't I just wait until Day 5?
Click to expand...


You may be over-thinking this just a tish. Just follow some set of the Wet Edge instructions and don't ad lib and you'll be fine.

0. Instructions say you can vacuum on day 1. "Let it keep going"? As in 24/7? That sounds like overkill. Running it for a couple hours after the brushing dust settled worked for me.

1. Everyone here on TFP will say to minimize mixing of chems. I just dump my Cl & MA straight from the gallon jugs. It amuses me to measure carefully and dose carelessly.

2. I think you'll be OK adding Cl on day 5 because your plaster base is white. With a colored base, I'd be more concerned with bleaching during the early days, and wait until day 7. I did float a puck, making sure to keep it away from the walls, from the start, then waited til day 7 to raise FC over 1 ppm. I read the instructions but didn't see the video.
 

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Yes, Rocket, that is my nature, to over think things. I say I suffer from analysis paralysis sometimes.

How did you keep your floater off your walls? Obviously, I can't be pool side all the time (although that would be nice in the summer).

Yeah, my usual addition technique was measure and dump chlorine at one return jet, and do the same for MA at another. Or, sometimes both at the same jet. It worked.

- - - Updated - - -

Rocket J Squirrel said:
I wonder about this also. It seems to imply that CYA, an acid, is causing the alkalinity reading to be higher than it should. Beats me.

My TA has been high (around 130) since the guys I hired to help me start up the pool dumped in too much alk. This was just before I discovered TFP. So if I can magically reduce TA by 1/3 of my 40 CYA, that's fine. Wet Edge must know more about this than I do.
Click to expand...

Maybe I should post that calc in the Deep End forum. What do you think? Yeah, 1st time I saw that calc as well.
 
Thanks. Good plan rocket. I think I could just use some string and attach it to the floater via the pole.

Neighbor let me borrow and start using the zodiac barracuda today. Got it all dialed in, prepared, and familiar with it today. This way I could just throw it in after the pool is full and let it go to work.
 
Don't worry about doing the adjusted TA. It has some validity, but it's not the best way to balance the water.

Use PoolMath to calculate the CSI and keep it between -0.3 and 0.0.

Make sure that the pH doesn't get over 7.9.
 
Thanks James. I am really preparing and planning this out as I’ve been throwing in different scenarios to pool math in anticipation based on 55° water (what I anticipate the third week in November at fill).

It is very challenging to maintain a CSI from -0.3 to 0.0 in many of the scenarios I input. Given a low calcium 200 and a high TA at least of 100, it is feasible but I have to keep my pH very tight at 7.4 to 7.6. Is this really practical in the life of a busy working professional that still wants to do their own start up? It’s almost as though I have to sit poolside.

And as far as the vacuuming w: neighbor’s zodiac barracuda, thank God I have a Maytronics robot. This thing is horrible. It’s been so challenging to figure out why it is patterning. Whatever it is between asking neighbor, YouTubing, looking at TFP, and zodiac, I was able to figure out enough to get it work just good enough. My theory is that as long as I brush and keep stuff moving off the bottom couple times a day, it’ll be good enough until I could throw in my beloved Maytronics robot.

I actually called wet edge and spoke with Lora who spoke with Scott, the main rep person in many of the wet edge videos, and he stated that it was OK for me to throw in my Maytronics robot at day 14. Do you guys think that’s too soon and I should wait the customary 30 days?

There is no way I’m going to manual vacuum for a month. Brushing is a big enough PITA.
 
Well, my pool drain has begun. at 1330 via my kitchen clean out as I don’t have one at the street. Slower drain w/ garden hose.

This AM, I checked my chemicals to insure my FC was up around 6 (CYA 30). My theory is just that during this resurface time I don’t want the formation of any bacteria in my pump, cartridges, lines. I actually cleaned my cartridges again yesterday (just did about a month ago) to ensure everything is set and ready to go.

I asked the tech his recommendation and he did agree that I should dump about a gallon or so into the skimmer directly. I never do this but I conceded. He said to let pump run for a little bit and then turn your pump off. This is what I did. But now I wonder if this was OK or going is too strong on my filters, etc., as everything is off?
 
Drain in progress. I don't have a 4" cleanout between the street and my house, so a slow drain using a standard size hose was implemented at my kitchen cleanout. However, shortly before I took this photo, their sump pump tripped my GFCI. After troubleshooting it, could not get it working. Fortunately I had a sump pump on hand that I threw in the pool. And, with my pump not being as strong, I then used their standard pool vacuum hose and connected that to my cleanout. By morning time, there was still some water, but they threw in some stronger pumps and it was a non-issue.



Demo done. They did a good job. No hiccups there and they let me have a go with the jackhammer, which was fun.

 
Yesterday, the tile crew was here. NPT did not have all 6 of our deco tiles on hand, so the tilers laid everything, and then removed the 4 tiles from the areas where the last decos will go. We selected 6x6 tiles. We went with grey grout and grey mastic, as I wanted both of those to not be a focal point. Overall, the 2 man crew did a good job and they continued to work even after sundown. We don't have a lot of lighting in the back, so I went out and offered them some headlamps, but the foreman stated that they were okay.

The only real issue was at the skimmer. Besides the skimmer having so much debris in it after the job that I cleaned up, the cantilever roof of the skimmer inlet was not tiled, nor was the upper lip/bridge part of the skimmer area. I brought this up to the foreman, but he said that it is not. We kept going in circles with our talk, and being that it was nighttime, I realized nothing was going to be able to be done at that time. I want to know, are your skimmers tiled on all sides (top, bottom, and sides) or your skimmer areas? My old tile job did not have tile on the top of the skimmer area, but this is a remodel and I think it is supposed to be tiled up on that part, right (see these photos below)?





[url=https://flic.kr/p/2a7P24s]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2a7P26m]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2a7P1FJ]

Here are the skimmer pics. A lot of excess mortar last night. Looks better today/hardened up nicer.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2bMkSUs]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2cNYSLS]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2cNYTjq]

This is how I found the door area. A little disppointed b/c I think the foreman went a little heavy on the mortar at the skimmer entrance vs. cutting a bigger/wider tile to fit that area better. This was a pic last night. But, if you look at the one directly below, you'll see that it hardened up nicely today.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2a7NXrC]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2a7NXUw]
 
Resurfacing questions

Hello TFP members,
We have just had our pool redone w/ new tile and resurfaced with Wet Edge Satin Matrix Cool Blue. All went pretty well with Burkett's Pool Plastering, however as part of the contract they were to eliminate our 2 rope hooks. Unfortunately, that was overlooked and I came home yesterday to see the new finish and 2 rope hooks in our shallow end. I told the contract manager and he said they would be redone today after the acid wash.

Well, the acid wash just started. I am scrambling now wondering if it is okay for the rope hooks to be removed after the fact and those 2 areas plastered and finished with our Wet Edge surface. So, questions:

1) Are rope hooks necessary? I only use it to tie of the puck floater if I go on vacation, but I am not going to do that anymore b/c Ghostlight, our Maytronics S200 gets caught in the rope.

2) I see no purpose for them b/c our 5 year olds know how to swim, and when kids or people that don't know how to swim, I always ensure I am with them in the water.

3) What would you do at this point? Leave them in, or have them removed and resurfaced over? Again, the later is what we desired, but at this point I just want what would be best for the finish.

Here's the pic of one of the rope hooks across from my entry steps. It is the hole on the right. The other is on opposite wall.

46028428202_2d3d70637a_c.jpg
 

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