A local pool professional is scheduled to come to my house on Friday to close my inground fiberglass pool. I've got a mesh cover so my pool professional is going to add PolyQuat to my pool since the cover lets in water and light. Last year, my pool was a swamp when it was opened back up so I want to make sure the pool professional is following the correct procedure when closing my pool this year and adding the PolyQuat. Last year, he added the PolyQuat a few minutes before draining the pool and my chlorine level was at 10 when it was added. Does the pump need to be run for a certain length of time after the PolyQuat is added before draining water out? Does the chlorine level need to be below a certain number before the PolyQuat is added for maximum effect? I plan on brining the pool to shock level tomorrow but I'm wondering how low I need to let the chlorine level drift down to before adding the PolyQuat and how long the pump needs to run before adding the PolyQuat. If the pump needs to run for awhile after the PolyQuat is added to the pool, I could buy some and add it to the pool myself before my pool pro comes over here to close the pool.
questions regarding adding PolyQuat
- Thread starter gwtw
- Start date
By far, to open to a clear pool, it is more important to close the pool when the water is < 60 degrees and open before the water gets over 60 degrees in the spring.
The poly and chlorine are a little self-defeating in that they will mutually destroy each other.
You could raise the FC up today and then let it drop down over the week prior to the poly being added.
I would also think that the poly should be mixed in the water to be well distributed, of course that means that some will be pumped out if you lower your pool water level ... of just add after you have drained and mix really well with a brush.
The poly and chlorine are a little self-defeating in that they will mutually destroy each other.
You could raise the FC up today and then let it drop down over the week prior to the poly being added.
I would also think that the poly should be mixed in the water to be well distributed, of course that means that some will be pumped out if you lower your pool water level ... of just add after you have drained and mix really well with a brush.
Thanks for the advice. If I raise the FC up to shock level today (which is 20), FC will probably be around 14-16 by Friday, since we aren't experiencing much chlorine loss right now. If I add the PolyQuat with the chlorine level that high, will it just lower the chlorine level? Or should I bump up my chlorine to a lower level today so it will drift down to a lower level by Friday when we add the PolyQuat? (CC is .5 or lower and clear so I'm not sure shocking the pool is necessary). Would it be better to add the PolyQuat and run the pump for 30 min-hour afterwards and then drain the pool, or add it to the water after it is drained and mix it up with a brush afterwards? Water temperature is 57 degrees currently and I plan on opening it back up in late April or early May, but I want to use the PolyQuat for added insurance since we frequently get warm days here in the winter.
I am in AZ, so I have never done any of this 
If your pool is currently sanitized, then there is really no need to even bump the FC up. You could try the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to verify that there is nothing in the water consuming the FC over night.
For winterizing, there are 2 main options:
1. Raise the FC up to shock level, cover, and let it drift down
2. Use the PolyQuat (likely better for non-opaque covers like yours).
There is a possible 3rd option that could be done in conjunction with either 1 or 2, and that is to lower your phosphate levels prior to closing. Although this is still in the experimental phase and not officially sanctioned by the TFP ruling body
If your pool is currently sanitized, then there is really no need to even bump the FC up. You could try the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to verify that there is nothing in the water consuming the FC over night.
For winterizing, there are 2 main options:
1. Raise the FC up to shock level, cover, and let it drift down
2. Use the PolyQuat (likely better for non-opaque covers like yours).
There is a possible 3rd option that could be done in conjunction with either 1 or 2, and that is to lower your phosphate levels prior to closing. Although this is still in the experimental phase and not officially sanctioned by the TFP ruling body
Why not consider closing without polyquat?
You mentioned it eight or so times in your first post as if it is something MANDATORY.........that's not the case. Many people close without it by simply adding FC to SLAM value. Remember, the two together are somewhat at cross purposes.
I don't think there has ever been (or possibly ever could be) a study PROVING that polyquat will absolutely let you open to a clear pool. It's the absence of chlorine that let's algae grow in your pool and poly contributes to that absence of chlorine. There are many folks here with an OPAQUE cover (I know you don't have one) and maintain a chlorine residual throughout the winter.
Even with a mesh cover, you could easily maintain a chlorine residual throughout the Kentucky winter and, I think, have just as good of luck as adding poly. I don't think poly provides the "insurance" that many people think., but, like I said, I know of no way that can be quantified one way or the other.
You mentioned it eight or so times in your first post as if it is something MANDATORY.........that's not the case. Many people close without it by simply adding FC to SLAM value. Remember, the two together are somewhat at cross purposes.
I don't think there has ever been (or possibly ever could be) a study PROVING that polyquat will absolutely let you open to a clear pool. It's the absence of chlorine that let's algae grow in your pool and poly contributes to that absence of chlorine. There are many folks here with an OPAQUE cover (I know you don't have one) and maintain a chlorine residual throughout the winter.
Even with a mesh cover, you could easily maintain a chlorine residual throughout the Kentucky winter and, I think, have just as good of luck as adding poly. I don't think poly provides the "insurance" that many people think., but, like I said, I know of no way that can be quantified one way or the other.