Hi all....I have noticed lately that there is a leak where the plumbing connects to the outflow side of my pump. All the lines are glued in hard so I am not sure how difficult it is to tackle a problem like this. In my situation, there are a couple of reducers attached to the pump and the leak is between them. The pump is a 3/4 HP whisperflo and the plumbing to the filter is 1.5" The leak is not draining my pool but it is annoying. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
Fixing a leak at the pump????
- Thread starter rockyboy
- Start date
Almost certainly the fitting coming out of the pump is threaded. A picture of the setup would probably help someone guide you.
The lines should not be glued into the pump. They are most likely threaded. Difficulty to replace really depends on your setup - a photo would be nice.
If you want a quick fix and the leak is fairly small you can use the two part epoxy putty they sell at hardware stores. They make a specific kind that can cure even in wet conditions. Other than following the directions on the package, I've found that sanding the area around the leak to make it rough and then cleaning it with alchohol really helps. Apply the epoxy and squeeze it hard to the pipe so it fills in the pits from sanding.
If you want a quick fix and the leak is fairly small you can use the two part epoxy putty they sell at hardware stores. They make a specific kind that can cure even in wet conditions. Other than following the directions on the package, I've found that sanding the area around the leak to make it rough and then cleaning it with alchohol really helps. Apply the epoxy and squeeze it hard to the pipe so it fills in the pits from sanding.
That looks to be a fairly easy fix. A wider view photo would be helpful in determining exactly where to cut the pipe. The fitting going into the pump is threaded and anything you see on there is pipe dope and not glue. Pipe dope is used on threads, glue on slip joints. The glue is the blue stuff you see and is the one I recommend using for your repairs.
The difficult part is always the joint where you cut the pipe. Usually things are close and compact, so you don't have lots of flex to move pipes into position. There are many ways to deal with this. Attach a wider view and maybe we can help more.
The difficult part is always the joint where you cut the pipe. Usually things are close and compact, so you don't have lots of flex to move pipes into position. There are many ways to deal with this. Attach a wider view and maybe we can help more.
I think I am getting what you are talking about. We have about 28 inches vertical out of the pump and 22 inches horizontal over to the filter. You are suggesting that I cut the vertical and replace the attachment and reducers from the pump and join the cut sections with a union? The vertical dimension should give enough flexibility to put them together. The pic I took was too big. Sorry. Thanks for the help
I'd cut the pipe in the horizontal section, and then either try some pipe dope designed for plastic pipe on the pump threads and rejoin the pipe with a union, or replace all the PVC and rejoin with a union. Make sure you have all the parts before you start taking it apart, since the threaded piece isn't available everyplace.
JohnT's suggestion of cutting at the horizontal sounds good as it gives you a bit more wiggle room.
Thanks much.....I was thinking that the vertical would be the place to cut but luckily I have room either way. Thanks!
Here's some step by step instructions I think you will find useful.
Lowes and Home Depot will have the pipe and fittings for the best price.
You will need a 2" male adapter, a 2" to 1-1/2" bushing (aka reducer), either an 1-1/2" coupling or better yet, a 1-1/2" flush union, and a small length of 1-1/2" solid core pipe, aka pressure rated.
Go to a pool store for Pool Tite glue, primer, and 3/4" wide Teflon tape. Don't let the glue or primer freeze!
Cut the pipe six inches up from the top of the bushing.
Unthread the pipe from the pump. Go in a place where there is good ventilation and it's warmer than 55 degrees.
Spread some newspaper. Primer and the glue will stain.
Cut a six inch length of pipe if you got the flush union or 7-1/2" if you went with the coupling. Wipe off any loose stuff off the edges.
Prime the male adapter and reducer bushing.
Note that when priming an applying glue, grasp the stem of the applicator. They sometimes separate from the cap otherwise. When gluing, always glue the male end 1st.
Apply glue to the bushing's outside surface and the male adapter and insert the bushing and hold for 30 seconds.
Wipe away the excess with a paper towel.
Prime and glue the pipe to the fittings.
If you bought the union:
Split the union. One half will have an o-ring seated in it. Prime the other end of the pipe and the union end with the o-ring. Wait a couple minutes. Get some air. The fumes are pretty strong. Next, glue the pipe to the union and hold together for about a minute and wipe the excess. Union ends like to push out so hold the two tightly with the union end facing up so any excess glue in the pipe doesn't true to run out, until the glue's grab overcomes the fitting's desire to push out. Unions are made of a slightly different plastic.
If you bought a coupling:
Prime and glue the coupling to the other end of the pipe and wipe away the excess. Reprime the inside of the coupling to remove any drips of glue inside the unglued surface.
Go outside and prime the other end of the pipe that goes to the filter. Cover the pump first! Primer will stain the pump. Close the can tightly and bring it in the house for storage.
If you used the union, attach the other half hand tight
Wrap teflon tape so there are about 4 thicknesses covering the threads of the male adapter. Wrap in a counter clockwise direction so the end of the tape doesn't unravel when you are threading it into the pump. A large set of channel lock pliers or a big monkey wrench will give you the leverage to need to thread it in like the old one was.
Make your final glue joint. Remember to hold the pipe down so it doesn't push out. Let it dry for 24 hours before testing. It's cold out and the glue will take some time to dry thoroughly because of this. If it's 50 degrees or more for 12 hours, you can test for leaks.
HTH,
Scott
PoolGuyNJ
Lowes and Home Depot will have the pipe and fittings for the best price.
You will need a 2" male adapter, a 2" to 1-1/2" bushing (aka reducer), either an 1-1/2" coupling or better yet, a 1-1/2" flush union, and a small length of 1-1/2" solid core pipe, aka pressure rated.
Go to a pool store for Pool Tite glue, primer, and 3/4" wide Teflon tape. Don't let the glue or primer freeze!
Cut the pipe six inches up from the top of the bushing.
Unthread the pipe from the pump. Go in a place where there is good ventilation and it's warmer than 55 degrees.
Spread some newspaper. Primer and the glue will stain.
Cut a six inch length of pipe if you got the flush union or 7-1/2" if you went with the coupling. Wipe off any loose stuff off the edges.
Prime the male adapter and reducer bushing.
Note that when priming an applying glue, grasp the stem of the applicator. They sometimes separate from the cap otherwise. When gluing, always glue the male end 1st.
Apply glue to the bushing's outside surface and the male adapter and insert the bushing and hold for 30 seconds.
Wipe away the excess with a paper towel.
Prime and glue the pipe to the fittings.
If you bought the union:
Split the union. One half will have an o-ring seated in it. Prime the other end of the pipe and the union end with the o-ring. Wait a couple minutes. Get some air. The fumes are pretty strong. Next, glue the pipe to the union and hold together for about a minute and wipe the excess. Union ends like to push out so hold the two tightly with the union end facing up so any excess glue in the pipe doesn't true to run out, until the glue's grab overcomes the fitting's desire to push out. Unions are made of a slightly different plastic.
If you bought a coupling:
Prime and glue the coupling to the other end of the pipe and wipe away the excess. Reprime the inside of the coupling to remove any drips of glue inside the unglued surface.
Go outside and prime the other end of the pipe that goes to the filter. Cover the pump first! Primer will stain the pump. Close the can tightly and bring it in the house for storage.
If you used the union, attach the other half hand tight
Wrap teflon tape so there are about 4 thicknesses covering the threads of the male adapter. Wrap in a counter clockwise direction so the end of the tape doesn't unravel when you are threading it into the pump. A large set of channel lock pliers or a big monkey wrench will give you the leverage to need to thread it in like the old one was.
Make your final glue joint. Remember to hold the pipe down so it doesn't push out. Let it dry for 24 hours before testing. It's cold out and the glue will take some time to dry thoroughly because of this. If it's 50 degrees or more for 12 hours, you can test for leaks.
HTH,
Scott
PoolGuyNJ