Help with clearing water from my pipes

I've got one particular pipe that I'm concerned about. It runs from the filter output (high point), then turns down and runs along the slab, then turns back up as it enters the heater (high point). The booster pump taps into that pipe as well, as you can see. Even when all the water runs back into the pool from most of the pipes, it seems to me like this one pipe will remain practically full of water and would be a serious freezing hazard. Thoughts? Previous owners supposedly ran the pump 24x7x365, so this wasn't an issue.

I might could Shop-Vac enough of the water out, but I'd have to disconnect and move the filter. Maybe install a T with threaded plug in the horizontal section of pipe running along the slab?

[attachment=0:1pscvpol]equip.jpg[/attachment:1pscvpol]
 

Attachments

  • equip.jpg
    equip.jpg
    87.8 KB · Views: 21
This shouldn't be too hard :cool:

I'd pull the plug on the bottom of the filter, then remove the salt cell and blow the water backwards through the heater.

You might want to think about blowing and plugging all the lines (see the winterizing link in my sig).

Also, remove any winterizing plugs (the 2 on the pump, the 1 or 2 on the booster pump, and the one on the heater and store them in the pump basket, along with the o-rings from the salt cell unions - this way you'll have no trouble finding them in the spring --- also, be sure to lube the o-rings [silicone or Teflon based lube PLEASE!] to prevent dry rot :hammer: )

This is a little terse and incomplete but if you have more questions, we're here to answer them - the most important thing is that your pool and equipment are protected for the winter so that you can use the pool as soon as the weather permits next spring :)
 
As always, thanks!

That's a very good idea. You don't think I'll loose too much pressure through the booster pump tap? I guess I could remove the booster pump and plug that line. Or, maybe it doesn't matter where the water goes as long as it leaves that low-lying pipe. Just worried about air going in the line and quickly out the booster line before much water is pushed out.

I definitely plan to do all of the other things you mentioned. I've got a checklist that contains all of them I believe.

I've been told previously to use silicone grease on the various o-rings. However, the Sta-Rite manual says not to use any lubricant on the big cord ring. Thoughts?
 
As always, my pleasure! :)

I doubt that you'd have any trouble blowing the one short line as is - the water will take the path of least resistance.

As for the lube, most manufacturers apply a thin coating of lube before they assemble the product - that's why they say not to lube them, however, if the equipment is over a year old, I'd apply a thin layer of lube to prevent dryrot :wink:
 
Just to finish up this topic, I closed everything down this weekend, and I was able to blow out that line with my shop-vac. I think I'm good to go there. The shop-vac didn't have nearly enough psi to blow out the Polaris supply line, but I hooked up my small air compressor which seemed to work fine. I may not have gotten every drop out, but I think I got out more than enough for North AL.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.