Concrete Block Pool Build - Help Needed

Diallo

0
Sep 26, 2018
1
WASHINGTON
MOD moved from old thread: Concrete Block Pool Build - Help Needed

Hi. My husband and I are very DIY. We are going to take on as much of the build as we can (excavation, plumbing, electrical, forming the base, building the CMU pool walls). We don't plan to use a liner, but rather plaster the pool. We live in the city and have a very small sized backyard, so the pool will essentially take all that up. We do not plan to build any decking, but plan to do either a 12" or 16" coping with artificial turf around the rest of the yard (that's literally a 30'x 8' strip plus the 3' sides around the pool).

I'm going down to get the permit tomorrow, and we are mapping everything out, and finalizing our plans. I will document everything via pics for you guys. ;)

Obviously, we will have MANY questions...hoping you guys can help us out with these...

Pool size: 24' x 12'...4.5' deep across.

1) For a CMU build, what is typically done to finish off the top? A bond beam? I've seen people finishing up by having rebar tied into their deck, but we do not plan to do a deck. We plan to finish off with a precast coping. Any guidance would be appreciated.

2) Do the blocks/mortar joints need to be sealed prior to plastering? (We plan to have someone else plaster).

3) I've read where some people did not install a drain at the bottom, but a sidewall drain. Any opinions? We have ZERO trees in our yard, and no one around us has any trees in their yard.

Any other do's/don'ts/lessons learned, etc. will be greatly appreciated.

I know we will have more questions. Thanks for now.

Below is a pic of the design we are going for...without the trees.
View attachment 48558
Good morning MAraCar, Do you have detail plans for the pool Block wall design?
 
My pool has no drains at all, which I very much like. I had them removed. The old ones were ugly (to me) and stubbed toes and fouled my cleaner and brushing. Don't miss them at all! Drains can pose a danger in a pool. No drains = no danger.

LOVE your DIY attitude and approach. Looking forward to hearing and seeing your progress. In between digging and what not, start to learn about taking care of your pool with TFP (if you haven't already). It is the ultimate DIY pool maintenance method, and the most economical, too!

Welcome to TFP!! ;)
 
I just had a single skimmer return in my pool (no main drain). I was ambivalent about this at first (my PB said they were unnecessary) but have come to appreciate it - one less plumbing line to leak! Only inconvenience for me is that I have to use a pump when winterizing in the fall to drain the pool below the skimmer line.
 
I just had a single skimmer return in my pool (no main drain). I was ambivalent about this at first (my PB said they were unnecessary) but have come to appreciate it - one less plumbing line to leak! Only inconvenience for me is that I have to use a pump when winterizing in the fall to drain the pool below the skimmer line.

I haven't tried this myself, but it should work. Guinea-pig-it for us? Use a length of vacuum hose (like from an auto cleaner or manual vac), and stick that in your skimmer's suction port, after having filled it with water. Other end in the pool, hold it/weight it down below the skimmer opening (hands and fingers well clear, nobody in the pool). Pump away with filter pump, no sump pump necessary...

I think you could just leave the hose connected to the auto vac, and let it do its thing on the bottom. No vac plate in the skimmer though, has to connect to the port for a good seal.

I don't winterize, or I'd try it myself. As long as you've got somebody on the pump breaker, what could go wrong? ;)
 
Use a length of vacuum hose (like from an auto cleaner or manual vac), and stick that in your skimmer's suction port, after having filled it with water. Other end in the pool, hold it/weight it down below the skimmer opening (hands and fingers well clear, nobody in the pool). Pump away with filter pump, no sump pump necessary. I think you could just leave the hose connected to the auto vac, and let it do its thing on the bottom. No vac plate in the skimmer though, has to connect to the port for a good seal.

Never thought about this. Don't see why it wouldn't work.
 
I haven't tried this myself, but it should work. Guinea-pig-it for us? Use a length of vacuum hose (like from an auto cleaner or manual vac), and stick that in your skimmer's suction port, after having filled it with water. Other end in the pool, hold it/weight it down below the skimmer opening (hands and fingers well clear, nobody in the pool). Pump away with filter pump, no sump pump necessary...

I think you could just leave the hose connected to the auto vac, and let it do its thing on the bottom. No vac plate in the skimmer though, has to connect to the port for a good seal.

I don't winterize, or I'd try it myself. As long as you've got somebody on the pump breaker, what could go wrong? ;)

I tried this on my pool prior to remodeling. The seal between the vac hose and skimmer wasn't perfect though, and after the water level fell below the skimmer, the water in the skimmer basket started slowly draining until it finally sucked in some air and the pump lost prime. It still worked, I just had to babysit it the whole time, and keep adding water to the skimmer basket to keep it from losing prime.
 
The ports on the inside of the skimmers are threaded, you just have to build a snorkel out of PVC pipe that goes down into the pool. It helps to have a union near the skimmer so that you can easily thread that section in and out
 
The ports on the inside of the skimmers are threaded, you just have to build a snorkel out of PVC pipe that goes down into the pool. It helps to have a union near the skimmer so that you can easily thread that section in and out

Ha, I had to run out and look. Mine sure is, threaded. I never noticed that. So, Brian, you're suggesting a male thread to PVC pipe, straight up out of the skimmer lid, then a union, then a couple elbows to get the PVC over to the pool, then a longer piece back into the water? A big U shape. Like it.

Will the pump suck all that air out well enough to prime?

So that's why MinerJason's attempt didn't seal well. A vac hose seals well enough to the threads when underwater, for vacuuming, but not well enough when the skimmer runs dry...

Cool beans.

Curious, why would it be threaded?
 

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Just to swing the thread back around...

So, Diallo, you can see that there are perfectly fine alternatives to having a drain. You really don't need one...
 
Ha, I had to run out and look. Mine sure is, threaded. I never noticed that. So, Brian, you're suggesting a male thread to PVC pipe, straight up out of the skimmer lid, then a union, then a couple elbows to get the PVC over to the pool, then a longer piece back into the water? A big U shape. Like it.

Will the pump suck all that air out well enough to prime?

So that's why MinerJason's attempt didn't seal well. A vac hose seals well enough to the threads when underwater, for vacuuming, but not well enough when the skimmer runs dry...

Cool beans.

Curious, why would it be threaded?

Should prime without issue especially since the pump and skimmer line are already primed when you do this.

An even better option is to use the "Dirk's dreaded vacuum port of death" and do the same thing. No priming issues since it's under water and uses way less pipe. Not everyone has a dedicated suction line though.
 
Love to know how you are doing -- whether you proceeded as planned our made changes as new info emerged. I myself plan to build 18 by 36 rectangular inground with cinder block next fall. Have purchased two construction manuals to guide me (only around $20 each and both are quite comprehensive), one from Home Built Pools and the other from gizmoplans.com. Even with both of these guides, I still have lots of questions I need to sort out before next fall. Top of list are: to mortar or dry lay blocks (my son who is a stone mason wants to do it mortared, both my plans say do it dry); drain or no drain (leaning to no drain after reading some of the threads); cement or sand bottom (leaning to cement for structural reasons); and the big one -- how to properly incorporate walk in step insert into the wall. Anyway, looking forward to your report!
 
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