Use of Cyclone Blower to close pool

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Machiavelli777

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Sep 17, 2018
13
York
Moved from here

Thanks for the links, I ended buying the cyclone vac w/attachments provided. I'll provide pics of my pool setup. However, my in-ground pool setup is fairly simple. I have a 15,000 gallon vinyl pool, one speed pump, 1 skimmer and 2 returns with no main drain. My pool deepest is only 5 feet (sport bottom).

This will be my 1st time closing down my pool, so, after treating the pool (shock/algae etc), I will 1st bring the water level below the skimmer and I'll be clearing the lines from the skimmer end. So, I've read multiple threads that once you clear/plug both of my returns (air/bubbles coming out after 45-60 secs) from the skimmer there's not much else to do except for removing the cartridge, all drain plugs from filter cartridge/pump etc...do I need to do anything else from the equipment pad (where filter/motor) is located since I don't have a main drain?

I'm assuming if i'm clearing the lines from the skimmer, everything needs to be close from the equipment pad correct? Basically, leave the drain plugs until I'm done clearing from skimmer? Sorry for noob questions.
 
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Welcome to the forum! :wave: Yes, anything that holds moisture or could possibly swell from freezing will want to be protected. Our Pool School - Closing an In Ground Pool has a lot of good tips about the pump/basket, filter, etc. It would also help us if you updated your signature with all of your pool and equipment details (see mine below) so we know what you have to work with.
 
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As stated, this is my current setup. I only have 1 skimmer and 2 returns with no main drain. My question is...if I'm draining lines from the skimmer with the cyclone vac, do I need to close any off any of the 2 valves in the equipment pad here? Currently by looking at both lines coming from the ground, they're both open at this time. Finally, dumb question and I apologize, but the pipe (right side of pic) coming from the ground is water coming from the skimmer and it's circling thru the motor/pump/filter, frog leap and back down to the pool from left pipe correct? Or is it the other way around. How can I determine which pipe coming from the ground leads to the skimmer?
 
Hootie said:
The pipe on the right coming from ground to pump is water coming from skimmer. The pump pushes it through the filter and back to the pool returns through the pipe on the left.
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Thanks a lot Hootie, I've been doing my research in here there's a lot of great information to read. So, let me ask this, once I'm getting to clear lines thru the skimmer and the cyclone is connected to skimmer and air/bubbles is being pushed out from the returns...at this time I plug both returns, correct? Do I need to close any off the black valves coming from the ground while the cyclone is running?

After this process am I done? I think I'm done since I don't have a deep end drain....or,

Do I need (after reading some threads here) to close one of the valves, either right of left pipes to create an "air lock" to have air forced out from the returns to plug (I already plugged the returns from my process above) or this is only required if I need it to drain the deep end which I don't have in my setup?

Thanks to everyone, this is really a scary thing to do haha, any info is greatly appreciated.
 
Machiavelli - you got most of it. Are you draining below the level of the returns? If so its easy - just blow out the lines and plug everything up.

If not - a little more complicated. Let the air bubble through the returns so it clears all the water out of the pipes. You’ve got to plug the return pipes as it is bubbling and turn off the blower right as the last return is plugged otherwise you will build up too much pressure in the system.

no need to create an airlock. That is only for main drains which are too deep to plug.

After the pipes are clear - open up the pump and filter and chlorinator and drain/vacuum ALL the water out of the equipment. You need to get water out of anywhere it will potentially freeze in pipes and equipment.
 
trivetman said:
Machiavelli - you got most of it. Are you draining below the level of the returns? If so its easy - just blow out the lines and plug everything up.

If not - a little more complicated. Let the air bubble through the returns so it clears all the water out of the pipes. You’ve got to plug the return pipes as it is bubbling and turn off the blower right as the last return is plugged otherwise you will build up too much pressure in the system.

no need to create an airlock. That is only for main drains which are too deep to plug.

After the pipes are clear - open up the pump and filter and chlorinator and drain/vacuum ALL the water out of the equipment. You need to get water out of anywhere it will potentially freeze in pipes and equipment.
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Thanks for the response Trivetman….my plan was to bring the water level, lowered below the skimmers (maybe an 1.5-2" below). Then clear lines thru the skimmer, plug both returns, and once cleared...move to opening pump and filter, chlorinator to drain all water. I think I might have this correct.

Question, if I wanted to clear the lines from the pump, say I would place the hose in the pump basket and pushed air down to the suction side and then up towards the filter side. What would be the difference this way? THANKS AGAIN for the assist.
 
If you can get the hose from the cyclone up against the pipes in the pump - nothing wrong with blowing out from the pump. I think you might not be able to do so. In my pump I might be able to blow air from the pump back towards the skimmer and main drain. No way I could direct the air through the impeller towards the filter. Theres not the space to get the hose against the pipe.

I have seen threads on here modifying a pump lid to receive a blower hose. You could also plumb a PVC ‘T’ into your plumbing. Cap it off normally and open it up for closing to blow air into.

no matter how you blow air into the lines be aware of turning the blower off as soon as the last opening is sealed up to avoid pressure buildup.

your plan sounds fine. Dont overthink it. It really doesn’t seem that complicated after you do it once (I’ve only done it once!!)
 
trivetman said:
Machiavelli - you got most of it. Are you draining below the level of the returns? If so its easy - just blow out the lines and plug everything up.

If not - a little more complicated. Let the air bubble through the returns so it clears all the water out of the pipes.

You’ve got to plug the return pipes as it is bubbling and turn off the blower right as the last return is plugged otherwise you will build up too much pressure in the system.
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The cyclone won’t build up pressure, you can plug than leisurely walk back to the cyclone & shut it off.
 

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Want to make life easier? Buy the same unions you have on your pump suction side and pressure side. Buy a threaded coupler to thread into the cyclone, glue a 2’ section of spa flex into that union, then glue on the matching piece of the union.

Time to close, just unthread both couplers, attach cyclone and blow away. No water on pad, filter clears easily, returns easy, skimmer blows water up onto pool deck. Stopping and starting the cyclone helps to let the mist pool and be easier to blow out upon start up.
 
Pool_Medic said:
Want to make life easier? Buy the same unions you have on your pump suction side and pressure side. Buy a threaded coupler to thread into the cyclone, glue a 2’ section of spa flex into that union, then glue on the matching piece of the union.

Time to close, just unthread both couplers, attach cyclone and blow away. No water on pad, filter clears easily, returns easy, skimmer blows water up onto pool deck. Stopping and starting the cyclone helps to let the mist pool and be easier to blow out upon start up.
Click to expand...

Pool_Medic, I apologize for my ignorance, but which would be considered the "unions" on the pump suction & pressure side? I see I have 3 unions in place, one close to pump (right pipe coming from ground), another in between filter and pump and the last one on left pipe near the leap frog system. Would I connect the cyclone to the 1st union (right pipe) coming from ground or based on your instructions where would you recommend to connect the cyclone?
 
You connect to the union just before the pump, this clears the skimmer. You then connect to the one before the filter, this clears filter, leap frog and returns. It’s far easier than doing stuff from the pool side. You just pull the drain plugs on the pump and you are done after filling skimmer with gizmo, antifreeze and an old pool noodle.
 
Catanzaro said:
Look at my post as in # 12 by Pookie. The 1.5" hose is flexible enough to be placed in the pump basket. Personally, I have not tried this myself, but this should work. First post, pictures above the NPT fitting at the bottom.
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Thanks all for the assist, @Catanzaro, so I would input the 1.5 hose inside the pump gasket - 1) going towards the skimmer - once I clear the pipe leading to skimmer 2) I than move the hose within the pump basket leading towards the pump, and this will clear the return lines, correct?
 
Machiavelli777 said:
Thanks all for the assist, @Catanzaro, so I would input the 1.5 hose inside the pump gasket - 1) going towards the skimmer - once I clear the pipe leading to skimmer 2) I than move the hose within the pump basket leading towards the pump, and this will clear the return lines, correct?
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Yes, but you may have to isolate other areas of the suction side (For example another skimmer and/or main drain). The Cyclone is powerful enough to clear the lines and whichever lines goes first (plug it), then you will move on to the next. Probability is that the main drain will go last. I Isolate all my lines on the suction side as I have shut off valves for each. The return is one after the other and no need to isolate them.
 
Catanzaro said:
Yes, but you may have to isolate other areas of the suction side (For example another skimmer and/or main drain). The Cyclone is powerful enough to clear the lines and whichever lines goes first (plug it), then you will move on to the next. Probability is that the main drain will go last. I Isolate all my lines on the suction side as I have shut off valves for each. The return is one after the other and no need to isolate them.
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I don't have a main drain in the pool and 1 skimmer w/2 returns so I believe this makes things a lil easier for me. :) Thanks for the assist.
 
trivetman said:
Could’a sworn I read all over that the pressure buildup was something to watch out for....now I can’t find it anywhere so maybe its not a big deal.
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The Cyclone will generate about 160 to 180 inches of water pressure, which is about 5.8 to 6.5 psi.

180 inches is 15 feet. So, that's the maximum water depth that it can blow out.
 

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