DIY?

YAZ

0
Jul 1, 2009
5
Phoenix, AZ
Our poor pool filter is sick. This thing is so old.....about 30 years old. Band-aids and PVC glue was used extensively over the summer just so we could enjoy it (for the most part).

Recently the backwash piston literally fell apart and I broke three bolts off the cover of the filter itself while attempting to inspect the sand and possibly change it.

We NEED a new one.

Anyone ever do it yourselves?

Do the calculations and buy the correct filter for your needs?

We want to put in a new sand filter and I'd like to save some cash by doing my own installation.

Keep in mind, I am not a plumber, have absolutely no experience installing such devices and would like everyone's input on this matter.

Thanks folks!

Brent
 
Welcome to TFP. You will find lots of friendly people willing to share their knowledge and experience as I have. Please post a pic so that others can follow. I am curious to also see what you have that needs repair. :-D
 
Brent, welcome to TFP!! Brentr is 'dead on right' that we can talk you through this :goodjob:

When you replace the filter, get a true multiport (6 way) and your life will be much, MUCH easier!

While I can't claim to have DYI'd it, I've been paid to do it for pool owners MANY times :wink:

If you can give us the pics of the system, we'll tell you what fittings you need and 'step- by- step' what and how to install everything :cool: :-D
 
I'm doing my own and I'm going to depend heavily on the great guy n gals here. :-D Of course I'll start my own post but just wanted to let you know. I've taken pictures of my pumping station and want to do some mark ups on them to better help our helpers.

For various reasons I'm going to use flex pipes which are much easier to use for novice and in my situation where I'm moving the filter about 5 ft from the pad (out of necessity so I can get the top off). You might not need to use flex pipes. People here won't let you down. :-D

gg=alice
 
Hey, Alice,

I'm pretty much with Scott. Over the years, we get quite a few bad reports about flex. I would never use it underground and really don't like the results when it's used above ground.

That said, if it's what you really need to do, many folks here have successful flex installations. Generally, it's not as permanent and certainly doesn't look as professional as rigid.

If you decide on rigid, there's a lot of people here with plenty of hands-on experience to coach you along.
 
With sand filters you can choose between top and side inlet. The side mounted ones are a little more expensive, but getting the top off of one is just a matter of loosing one clamp-ring bolt and lifting the lid - no plumbing is in the way. With a top mount valve, ALL of the plumbing and valve ARE the lid.
Best wishes!!
 
Thanks guys. BTW... It's the Pentair DE Quad 80 I'm installing. Several reasons I want to use Flex. First I'm moving just the filter away from the pad going down hill and I have to dig a "hole" of about 24" to get the vertical clearance to get the top off. Pad is under deck. We've already discussed making a cut out in deck but I can't do that because it is steel pier and beam with 12" beam centers. Right now my 36 sq ft, on pad, doesn't have enough head room to get the top off so I have to unhitch it from system and drag it down the slope and around the steps to get the top off for good cleaning etc. Even moving the Pentair 5 ft from pad I still can't stand up there (I'm 5'7") hence the "hole" for the filter pad.

A year or two life of the Flex will give me time to decide if I want to move the pad and redo all plumbing or just what to do. I'm really needing to get the Pentair in ASAP because I'm having to backwash every 2-3 days (switched to cellulose which shortens backwash intervals by a couple of days), because of all the extra sand and silt the doggies drag into the pool in addition to what normally blows in. Backwashing in the dead of winter is very unpleasant. And I can't trust that I can run the filter all night during freezing weather without the psi going dangerously high. Backwashing involves going all the way down the steps (skip the last one), bending over, and bending over even more as I go up the hill to the pad. To pull the push/pull valve I am bent over in half right above the valve. Pulling the valve up, going back up the steps to switch on, repeating this several times. It's murder when the temps are over 100 and murder on the back, even a young one, which mine is not. The steps totally enclose the pad on one side, the other side is going further under the deck so only place to move it is down the hill a bit but still under deck. If I wanted to get enough head room without being under the deck and/or not digging out some I would have to move it 20 ft on down the hill to get it out from under the deck. Pad is now about 30 ft from pool. Deck is 30' X 30 ft. I can stand up straight, at just the very end of deck.

BTW.... the whole pumping station is shaded by the steps and deck so virtually no sun exposure. Snakes like it under there too. :roll: Even the nonvenomous snakes don't like to be bothered.

Can't use a sand filter because of all the extremely fine silt, and loads, and loads, and loads of it. :shock:

Almost forgot. Pumping station is totally out of view by anyone except for me and the lawn crew when they mow the path down to the barn. If only someone else, around here would see it. :rant:

In next few days I'll be posting pics of the pumping station.

Thanks, gg=alice
 
The shade will help. If it's only for a year or so, you might be ok. I'd still do it in hard pipe though. The changes in elevation can be accommodated using 45s to step down and up. The use of a support for the pipes at the multiport would enable you to simply disconnect the multiport from the tank. The pipe supports will keep it where you want it making resetting a snap and not stress any fittings

Remember to drain the tank before trying to drag it to where you can open it. That will happen as you will need to soak the cartridges in TSP or powdered dishwasher detergent periodically to get rid of the skin oils and tanning lotions that will accumulate.

Scott
PoolGuyNJ
 

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PoolGuyNJ said:
The shade will help. If it's only for a year or so, you might be ok. I'd still do it in hard pipe though. The changes in elevation can be accommodated using 45s to step down and up. The use of a support for the pipes at the multiport would enable you to simply disconnect the multiport from the tank. The pipe supports will keep it where you want it making resetting a snap and not stress any fittings

Remember to drain the tank before trying to drag it to where you can open it. That will happen as you will need to soak the cartridges in TSP or powdered dishwasher detergent periodically to get rid of the skin oils and tanning lotions that will accumulate.

Scott
PoolGuyNJ

Thanks all. Oh yeah, I drain it well. I've been doing it for 23 years now. This last time I went too long between good cleanings (I usually do it twice a year) so it was really heavy with the damp, caked up DE between the grids.

Hey guys, we have totally hijacked this link. Sorry YAZ. We will cease and desist with the hijacking. Okay guys?
 
Alice, it might be time to start your own post on this - or maybe one of our everhelpful mods could split this :wink:

I'd like to give YAZ a chance to respond and get his issue taken care of :angel:

However, that's not gonna stop me from saying that I think flex pipe will be fine in your situation :-D
 
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