Pump Wiring

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Adamphotoman

Adamphotoman

0
Aug 18, 2018
295
Dieppe New Brunswick
Pool Size
91000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
My Hayward Super Pump 1H replacement arrived yesterday on warranty. The old one still works but it is leaking quite a bit. It isn't making more noise, and it is pumping. I will attempt to replace the seals after I install the brand new pump, but my query is some funky wiring. It seems that the old pump's jumper is set for 230v....[Hayward factory sets their SuperPump's for 230v]. The breaker is a a double pole 15 plus 15 amp. But the pump is wired using 3 wires and the plug end is a normal 3 prong plug [110/115v].... Which is unusual, or I think it should have a 4 wire cable and a proper 230/220 volt plug and receptacle.
Before I subject the brand new pump to this configuration I want to make sure it won't compromise the new pump.

On another note the old pump lost prime and when the power came back on after an outage the pump may have run dry for awhile until it self primed.
 
Re: Pump Wiring

Double breakers tied together indicate 220v feed. I would put a voltmeter on the outlet and confirm the voltage.

Post a pic of the plug and outlet. You never know when someone used a 120v outlet for a 220v feed.
 
Gotta put a voltmeter in there and see what you have. Or open up the breaker panel and outlet and see if you have feeds to the outlet from two hots or from a hot and a neutral.
 
Romex with a plug can't be up-to-code. I wouldn't be surprised if the same genius who did that also used a 120 plug for a 240 circuit.... I mean, he marked it, right?

I'm pretty sure that you need strain reliefs and twistlock plugs or even flex conduit and permanent wiring. Hold off a day or so with the nex pump if you can and hopefully someone familiar with the NEC will reply.
 
Richard320 said:
Romex with a plug can't be up-to-code. I wouldn't be surprised if the same genius who did that also used a 120 plug for a 240 circuit.... I mean, he marked it, right?

I'm pretty sure that you need strain reliefs and twistlock plugs or even flex conduit and permanent wiring. Hold off a day or so with the nex pump if you can and hopefully someone familiar with the NEC will reply.
Click to expand...

Note that the OP is in Canada.
 
Yes, but even in Canada they don't wire 220v equipment with a 120v plug. The entire equipment install is in question and quite possibly unsafe!

Definitely check those voltages with VOM and rewire/hardwire the entire setup.
 
sktn77a said:
Yes, but even in Canada they don't wire 220v equipment with a 120v plug. The entire equipment install is in question and quite possibly unsafe!

Definitely check those voltages with VOM and rewire/hardwire the entire setup.
Click to expand...


I assumed the pool service had properly installed the pump. After all, the pool service charged the previous owner for the pump, pool opening and for pump installation just before we took possession. I have a copy of the receipt and used it for registering.
At any rate I decided to delve into it when the new pump arrived. At first glance it looked like a 115v install complete with a wall switch to turn it on and off.
I talked to an electrician I know several provinces over. He figures that the wires are right [or the pump would either burn out immediately or run very slowly]. The plug and wall socket are definitely unsafe.... Someone could plug a 115v appliance into the outlet and that would be a fire hazard. I will get a local electrician to rectify to code. BTW the pool house is mostly enclosed except for a wide open door just off a car port and every thing under a roof deck enclosure. Wiring, the breakers, and the pump is protected from the elements.
Hayward even sells a 3 foot vinyl power cord for this pump.
 

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It looks to me like it is wired for 110 volt. I see the hot lead, ground and neutral. You also cannot test 220 volt with a multimeter and expect to see "220 volts". 220 is 2 110 volt leads. So each lead would measure at 110. If both of those leads (white and black) are measuring at 110, then that is wired for 220. You also could use the mutlimeter to test the outlet and see if 110 is coming out of each lead. Put one lead in one blade and the other in the ground and then try the other one. I suspect that is wired for 110 though. Are you sure that breaker goes to that outlet?
 
PoolGate said:
It looks to me like it is wired for 110 volt. I see the hot lead, ground and neutral. You also cannot test 220 volt with a multimeter and expect to see "220 volts". 220 is 2 110 volt leads. So each lead would measure at 110. If both of those leads (white and black) are measuring at 110, then that is wired for 220. You also could use the mutlimeter to test the outlet and see if 110 is coming out of each lead. Put one lead in one blade and the other in the ground and then try the other one. I suspect that is wired for 110 though. Are you sure that breaker goes to that outlet?
Click to expand...

Sure you can. I do it all the time as do countless other electricians. Actually, you are a little correct on this as nominal voltage will be 240 volts not 220.

In regards to the OP's picture, the list of NEC violations is as follows... (and yes, I know he is in Canada)

-depending on the location of the pump, the romex can not be used.
-The romex should have a romex clamp on it where it enters the motor.
-Improper use of a 120 volt plug end on the romex if this is indeed 240 volts. No plug ends are UL listed for use on romex and romex is not listed for plug/cord
instalations.
-If this is 240 volts the white wire must be marked as a hot lead with another color other than white on both ends
-Improper receptacle for 240 volts.

Dan
 
If you put one lead on each hot leg of a 230 volt set, you should measure 230 volts (+/- about 10 volts).

Note: 230 volts is sometimes called 220, 230 or 240 because there is a range that the voltage can be in and still be correct.

115 is sometimes called 110, 115 or 120.

Some people use the top of the range, some use the middle and some use the bottom.

Many pool pump motors are listed 115/230.
 
JamesW said:
Many pool pump motors are listed 115/230.
Click to expand...

But wiring needs to be changed internally to set it to 115 or 220. They are not automatically dual voltage the way many consumer appliances are.
 
JamesW said:
Correct, I was just referring to the common convention of how the voltage was listed.
Click to expand...

I know. I just don’t want anyone reading that to think the pumps are automatically dual voltage without a internal wiring change.
 
JamesW said:
If you put one lead on each hot leg of a 230 volt set, you should measure 230 volts (+/- about 10 volts).

Note: 230 volts is sometimes called 220, 230 or 240 because there is a range that the voltage can be in and still be correct.

115 is sometimes called 110, 115 or 120.

Some people use the top of the range, some use the middle and some use the bottom.

Many pool pump motors are listed 115/230.
Click to expand...

Thanks you learn something new every day! I always thought there had to be a ground to complete the circuit.
 
Well, my electrician could not make it today. He had a health issue so no fault on him. His doctor ordered him a bunch of tests. He will come by tomorrow.

The query is that if the new pump is factory set for 230v, and the jumper on the new pump is set the same as the existing pump ??? well then the old pump has wiring issues!!!

Tomorrow will tell. We will bring it all up to code.
 

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