Post Heavy Rain maintenance

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M

mah2496

0
Mar 3, 2018
48
Salado/TX
Last weekend my home received 4-5” of rain. I had to open my drain both days to keep water from overflowing.

Come Monday I noticed my SWG showed 1500 ppm. Rather than testing the water, I went straight for the salt and poured 40 lbs into my pool. By Wed my SWG read 1800 ppm and water had a very faint haze so I poured another 40 lbs in. This Fri morning my SWG read 2200 and water had same faint haze but now a barely noticeable green hue, so I took a water sample to Leslies for advice during my lunch break.

Leslies report showed my salt at 3900, which tells me I need to recal my SWG controller. My PH was way high and I had virtually no FC. Leslies recommended 4 lbs of shock and 9 qts of muriatic acid. My test results are below .
6d34b22f9fa148540487af53222d217d.jpg


When I got home at 9pm my the haze appears to be nearly gone so Ive held off adding any shock to my water. Its hard to tell if the green hue is gone without sunlight. Any thoughts on whether I should proceed with shocking my pool or should I test FC on the morning then decide. (I did start adding muriatic acid for my PH).
 
What kind of “shock” did they sell you. You do need to slam the pool, but with liquid chlorine, probably not with what they sold you bc, if we believe their numbers, and we don’t, your CYA is at the highest we’d want it to be.

Do you have one of the recommended test kits? If yes, please test with that and give us your results. If not, all our methodology taught here is based on using your own test kit and you’ll need one.
 
Is this the usual way you test your water? If so, I think you know what we're going to say... We just don't trust pool store testing. It's inconsistent, unreliable, and we just don't buy it as being good data.

Nevertheless, you need to slam your pool. Liquid bleach to get your FC back up before you have a full fledged algae bloom on your hands. Powdered shock will only push your CYA higher and introduce a whole new set of problems.
 
I usually test using my TF100 kit but thought a store may be more accurate. Sounds like I can trust my test kit and dont really need a store.

Here are my test results (photo) taken at 12pm. I filled my CYA view tube to the top but could still see the black dot so I assume CYA is 0. Calcium Hardness turned purple blue at 8 drops then completely blue at 15 drops. Is CH 375 correct, or does purple blue count as actual blue putting me at CH 200?
1693c17d4007153c51ef4f495037cf06.jpg


Pool water appears to be back to normal without any shock. Following photo taken at 12pm.
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Do yall think SLAM is still necessary?
 
Not sure a CC of 1 requires the full SLAM Process routine.

Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and see what your loss is. Get your CYA up to 30 asap and get a 5ppm level of CL in and test and maintain it every few hours until you get the CYA in.
 

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Use CYA powder, aka stabilizer or conditioner. Available at most Walmart, Home Depot, etc. Normally about $4 per pound.

Add the CYA by using what we call the sock method. Get an old sock (no holes) and put the measured amount of CYA you need. Tie the sock closed and either suspend it in front of a return (hang it from your brush pole works with something weighted on the deck) OR if it still allows flow thru the skimmer, place the sock in the skimmer. Every 15/20 minutes give the sock a squeeze to speed up the process. Please DO NOT follow the directions on the container of CYA to just pour it into the skimmer and don't just toss the sock in the pool as the CYA is acidic and can bleach/stain pool finishes.
 
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