Pool Problems-STUMPED

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birkesl

0
May 28, 2013
59
Washington, Il
Pool Size
40000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
I'm a 5th year TF pool user/fan and am a bit stumped on what's happening with my pool right now. I'll add my current readings below as well as some notes on clarity and other things I believe may be pertinent to my issues. I"m looking for help on what to do next as we have a big pool party next weekend.

Chemistry:
ph-8.2 (ph climbs very quickly this year and I've had to add a lot of muriatic acid to keep it down--about 1 bottle per week)
ta-80
fc-7 (I've been shocking lately with liquid chlorine which I use exclusively over pucks)
cc-1
tc-8
cya-35
hardness-500-1000 (really high I"m assuming because I use iron-treated well water to top off and this has been a dry year)

My guess is that hardness is contributing to my issues but I don't know what to do about it.

About 4 days ago my pool started getting murky (more white then green but then turning to green with about 3 foot clarity) so I started shocking at about 10ppm a day consistently to get cc down. I am having to vaccuum and scrub every day because there is fall out of green and rust colored material. Backwashing and rinsing at least once per day.

I have a sand filter.

If anyone needs to know anything else just ask otherwise-HELP
 
Your CYA is 40 (we round up). Shock FC level for CYA 40 is 16. See [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

Follow SLAM Process process step by step. No shortcuts. Maintain FC of 16 or above continously until you meet the three exit criteria.
 
Did your FC ever fall below 3? If not you may have more iron in your water then you think. Could your treatment of the well water be working correctly?

Or it’s some type of outbreak and to slam you need to raise FC above 16 and maintain it there.
 
hardness-500-1000 (really high I"m assuming because I use iron-treated well water to top off and this has been a dry year)
Click to expand...
iron and CH are unrelated. What is the CH of your fill water? How are you testing for CH? Have you tested for iron?

You have more important issues with your pH and that CC result of 1.0, but I just want you to be aware about CH and Iron and you should get a good test for both.

Like ajw22 said, I think you need to SLAM regardless of your iron and calcium issues.
 
birkesl said:
I'm a 5th year TF pool user/fan and am a bit stumped on what's happening with my pool right now. I'll add my current readings below as well as some notes on clarity and other things I believe may be pertinent to my issues. I"m looking for help on what to do next as we have a big pool party next weekend.

Chemistry:
ph-8.2 (ph climbs very quickly this year and I've had to add a lot of muriatic acid to keep it down--about 1 bottle per week)
ta-80
fc-7 (I've been shocking lately with liquid chlorine which I use exclusively over pucks)
cc-1
tc-8
cya-35
hardness-500-1000 (really high I"m assuming because I use iron-treated well water to top off and this has been a dry year)

My guess is that hardness is contributing to my issues but I don't know what to do about it.

About 4 days ago my pool started getting murky (more white then green but then turning to green with about 3 foot clarity) so I started shocking at about 10ppm a day consistently to get cc down. I am having to vaccuum and scrub every day because there is fall out of green and rust colored material. Backwashing and rinsing at least once per day.

I have a sand filter.

If anyone needs to know anything else just ask otherwise-HELP
Click to expand...
By your descriptions, you have the beginnings of an algae bloom. While you could do an OCLT to confirm, if this was my pool I would start a SLAM right away.

As mentioned, you need to get your FC to 16ppm (not 10ppm) and keep it there until you pass all three criteria to end the SLAM. No Shortcuts.
 
What would everyone recommend for a good test for iron and CH? If these are high (likely very high) what are my options for correcting? I am filling from a well and even with the filters the water is very hard.
 
A good test for CH is contained within the TF-100 or k-2006C. Those are the standard kits most all of us use.......neither has an iron test Get the pool store to test for iron but PLEASE don't have them test ANYHTING else. Do your own testing.

Post your results back up and we'll help you work around those issues.
 
CH=430. I'll get iron when I have a chance to hit the pool store. I have less than 3 weeks to swim before it's too cold. I don't have a heater. I'm thinking I should just wait until end of the season and then dump water at the beginning of next year to remove some of the CH. How much do I need to dump?
 
birkesl said:
CH=430. I'll get iron when I have a chance to hit the pool store. I have less than 3 weeks to swim before it's too cold. I don't have a heater. I'm thinking I should just wait until end of the season and then dump water at the beginning of next year to remove some of the CH. How much do I need to dump?
Click to expand...
None, 430 is easily manageable without a drain.

Can you test your fill water?
 

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birkesl said:
Any thoughts on why my ph climbs so quickly each week and I have to keep lowering with muriatic? Does CH or iron have something to do with that?
Click to expand...

CH does not affect PH.

SWG? Water features?

Post your PH & TA of pool and fill water. What PH do you target and when do you lower PH to what?

Post a full set of test results.
 
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