AquaTrol not generating, salt level is at 0

I just recently joined this forum and I have a question. My Aquatrol panel says my salt level is at 0. a few days ago it was at 2800. When i first turn it to on, the power light is on, generating light comes on. but after a minute or so, the generating light goes off, the check salt light comes on and inspect cell light comes on. none of the lights are flashing. We inspected the cell and it is clean as a whistle, no scaling. the
We added 1 bag of salt yesterday and let the pump run.

diagnostics are below:

0 - salt level
89
30.1
0.00
96p
-0
AL-6
1.47

Everything was working fine until we noticed this yesterday. Maybe you can help me determine if my panel went bad. We have a flow switch also that is installed, but it is working fine, after testing it.

Thanks,
Melanie




30' in-ground pool, fiberglass drop-in
Hayward AquaTrol HP Main PCB Circuit Board for AQ-TROL-HP Generator | GLX-PCB-TROL-HP
Hayward Goldline Flow Switch GLX-FLO-RP[
 
Welcome to the forum!

Do you have a salinity test for your water? Independent from the SWCG system.
 
Thanks for the welcome. no, i don't think i have a salinity tester. The board was working fine a few days ago. We did have a lightning storm a couple days ago as well. so i didn't know if maybe the lightning surge damaged the board. It was reading 2800 before it did this and we had added a bag of salt. Like i said the generating light will not stay on, it goes off after a minute or so.
 
The diagnostic readings suggested that the Thermistor is good but the salt cell does not have the power it needs to generate chlorine. Maybe a new cell is in order.

The last page of the Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guideline will tell you how old your cell is.

You can take the cell to the pool store for testing to confirm. Also, inspect the cord plug for any signs of deterioration or burnt marks.
If the cell is tested good, remove the mainboard and inspect the relay for burnt or cold solder.
 
The cell is fairly new, i bought it last year. i will see if there are any burnt marks after opening the main board. it is funny that this board acted up after we had a lightning storm. I suspect that is what happened, but didn't know for sure.

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The diagnostic readings suggested that the Thermistor is good but the salt cell does not have the power it needs to generate chlorine. Maybe a new cell is in order.

The last page of the Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guideline will tell you how old your cell is.

You can take the cell to the pool store for testing to confirm. Also, inspect the cord plug for any signs of deterioration or burnt marks.
If the cell is tested good, remove the mainboard and inspect the relay for burnt or cold solder.




The cell is fairly new, i bought it last year. i will see if there are any burnt marks after opening the main board. it is funny that this board acted up after we had a lightning storm. I suspect that is what happened, but didn't know for sure.
 
Move the switch to off and then back to auto and recheck the diagnostic readings.


ok i did that and after a minute or so, the check salt light is on and check cell light is on. I have inspected the cell and it is clean. just bought this cell last year and it has been working fine. a few days ago it was reading 2800 on salt level, and we have added 2 bags of salt.

diagnostics reading after moving the switch to off and back to auto:

0- salt level
88
29.5
0.18
98P
-0
Al-6
1.47
 
Ok, that doesn't look good. Maybe a cell failure. Try unplugging the cell and checking the connections.

Check the board for burn marks on the back.

If no damage to the plug or board, I would suggest a warranty claim on the cell.

What are the first 7 of the serial number?

The serial number should begin with something like 3E16.
 
Ok, that doesn't look good. Maybe a cell failure. Try unplugging the cell and checking the connections.

Check the board for burn marks on the back.

If no damage to the plug or board, I would suggest a warranty claim on the cell.

What are the first 7 of the serial number?

The serial number should begin with something like 3E16.


The serial number for the cell is 3E14161-402157 GLX-CELL-5 Turbo Cell. I was mistaken, the cell was bought in 2014. i just found my paperwork.
 

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Ok, the cell was made June 10 2014. Check the cord and circuit board.

I checked the cord, everything looks ok. We opened the panel front and looked at the board and did not see any burn marks anywhere on the circuit board. Yeah, i didn't realize the Cell was that old. Also, my pool holds 12,000 gallons, so wouldn't it be better to get the T-Cell-3 instead of the T-Cell-5? T-cell-3 is up to 15,000 gallons.
 
If no damage to the board. I would suggest a warranty claim if you have a receipt less than 3 years old.

Check the numbers again. Turn off switch, wait a minute then move the switch to auto and recheck the readings.

Then do it one more time.
 
Diagnostic readings based on polarity reversal approach will yield the same results if the Com post on either of the relay is not making a good contact with the trace or the relay itself went bad.

If you want to save time in troubleshooting, take the cell out for testing! Your cell could have taken the sudden death not by erosion but most likely due to the galvanic corrosion on the contact post connecting the coated plates to the wiring terminal. Most cell failure should be somewhat gradual, as the cell coating erodes. Hence, the unusual lower salinity readings. But your case seems to be exceptional!

 
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If no damage to the board. I would suggest a warranty claim if you have a receipt less than 3 years old.

Check the numbers again. Turn off switch, wait a minute then move the switch to auto and recheck the readings.

Then do it one more time.

No, the cell was bought october of 2014. so it is 4 years old. no warranty past 3 years. I have a 12,000 gal. pool. if i have to buy a new cell, wouldn't it be better to buy the T-Cell-3? That is for pools up to 15,000 gal.

1. turned switch to off, waited a minute and turned it back on, these are the numbers:

88
29.8
0.03
99P
-0

2. Did this one more time and readings are:

88
29.8
0.00
99P
-0

and salt level still reads 0
 
The forum recommends a SWCG rated for at least 2X your pool volume. So the T-5 is just big enough.

Remember, a SWCG is rated at 100% for 24 hours. So a T-3 in your pool would have to be run nearly 24 hours per day at 100% to maintain your chlorine during the summer months.

What state or country is Picayune in? Can you add that to your location?
 
The forum recommends a SWCG rated for at least 2X your pool volume. So the T-5 is just big enough.

Remember, a SWCG is rated at 100% for 24 hours. So a T-3 in your pool would have to be run nearly 24 hours per day at 100% to maintain your chlorine during the summer months.

What state or country is Picayune in? Can you add that to your location?


Oh ok, i will stick to the TCell 5 then. I live in Mississippi. yes, i will add it to my location. thanks
 
The AquaTrol can only take a T-5.

It seems like a complete failure of the cell. However, they usually fade gradually.

In cases where the salinity is not independently verified and one just relies on the box reading, the actual salinity will get to 4,000 to 6,000 before the cell fails completely.

The cell actually might have failed gradually by reading lower and lower. If you keep adding salt based only on the box, the box reading and the actual salinity diverge until complete failure.

So, you might get a very high salinity reading with a new cell.

You really need to get a K-1766 salt test kit to verify the actual salinity to compare it to the box.
 
I checked the cord, everything looks ok. We opened the panel front and looked at the board and did not see any burn marks anywhere on the circuit board. Yeah, i didn't realize the Cell was that old. Also, my pool holds 12,000 gallons, so wouldn't it be better to get the T-Cell-3 instead of the T-Cell-5? T-cell-3 is up to 15,000 gallons.

Can I assume you removed the mainboard from the enclosure, inspected the solder side of the board for burnt marks and not just by looking at the component side?
 
The AquaTrol can only take a T-5.

It seems like a complete failure of the cell. However, they usually fade gradually.

In cases where the salinity is not independently verified and one just relies on the box reading, the actual salinity will get to 4,000 to 6,000 before the cell fails completely.

The cell actually might have failed gradually by reading lower and lower. If you keep adding salt based only on the box, the box reading and the actual salinity diverge until complete failure.

So, you might get a very high salinity reading with a new cell.

You really need to get a K-1766 salt test kit to verify the actual salinity to compare it to the box.


yes you are right, it could have been gradually going bad and i didn't realize it. When i get a new cell, you are right, it will probably give me a high reading. I guess if it reads over 4000, i should drain it a bit and add water, right?

I will get that salt test kit for sure. everyone has been so helpful, I appreciate it. I originally wanted to know if it was the circuit board or the Cell that went bad. and in your opinion, it sounds like the Cell is bad. guess i will hunt for a Cell online now, lol. best price i have found for a T5 is 315.00 and free shipping. I have to admit, they are expensive!

thank you so much for your help :)

Melanie

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Can I assume you removed the mainboard from the enclosure, inspected the solder side of the board for burnt marks and not just by looking at the component side?

no, i didn't do that, but i will before i buy the new Cell.. thank you so much for your help.
 

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