Newbie ALERT

Aug 15, 2018
14
Alabama
Hey guys, my wife and I just bought a house and one of the requirements was a pool (although we have never owned one). We found the perfect house which had an in-ground gunite Roman pool. It is much larger than we anticipated (18ft x 40ft and 9.5 ft deep under the diving board), but we have thoroughly enjoyed it for the past month between unpacking.

Unfortunately, this was a divorce sell and the pool was green when we moved in.

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Here is a pic before I pressure washed the deck after we stabilized the water.

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On a side note, I spend 15 hrs and 4 tanks of gas pressure washing the exterior of this house, sidewalks, and decks....but it looks a LOT better.

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I replaced the incandescent lights with $34 250W equivalent LED bulbs and put them on an automation timer. They draw minimal power and are a LOT brighter than the original 500W incandescent bulbs.

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If you have any questions on the conversion, I am happy to answer.

Looking forward to participating in the forum!
 
LOL...thanks guys. I found a problem with the can (tube?) tablet chlorinator valve and fixed it so I am now getting a good steady dose of chlorine. However, I have a secret...I found a reputable pool service company and paid them to get it balanced and stabilized. I am wanting to learn more myself and eventually I plan to swap it over to a salt cell system. I am looking at a lot of options and would like to install an automation system that will alert me when something needs to be adjusted...but for now, we have a service agreement on it. I do have a test kit and find myself compulsively checking the levels and also taking water samples to the local pool store to get analyzed. I might need to join a therapy group soon...wait, I think I just did. Do you guys count? :D

The previous owners ex-wife stole the nearly new Polaris (the box was still in the pool supply storage room) so I located a used Pentair Legend and installed it. Unfortunately, I am getting sand into the pool and it gets cloudy when I run the Legend so I am being told I need to change the sand in my filter. I have watched a couple videos and think I will tackle that job within the next couple weeks.

I am currently trying to troubleshoot the Hayward Pool Heater, but it is more like I keep ordering parts and installing them and when it still doesn't work I order other parts to try to see if that fixes it.

Later in the winter when I shut the pool down for the year, I need to perform some deck and coping (see I am learning big words and terminology :p) work. I will take some pics and post progress.
 
Al, as great as your pool looks, you are at risk of having it get wonky on you if you continue to:

1) Trust a pool store to test
2) Continue to use pucks for chlorine
3) Using a pool service

The problem with pool stores is that the poor harried clerk is often clueless about *chemistry*... even if their test center looks hi-tech, it is often bells and whistles with poor actual results. They either interpret them wrong or do the test wrong or just do it so they can tell you that you need to buy something! (Free tests are often very expensive)

Pucks add CYA to your pool with every single puck. You get 8ppm FC and *also* 6ppm CYA. Most pools can't handle that much CYA build up and hit the breaking point when they get algae they can't understand.

Pool guys can't spend that much time at your pool. It isn't cost effective for the business to actually treat the pool like *you* would. To protect the pool between visits they might toss in products you don't want- like copper containing algaecides or others, which buy them time between visits but may ultimately be damaging to your pool surface which may not be noticed for years to come.

Which test kit do you have??

Don't jump the gun on changing the sand out of the filter. They *rarely* need changing.. its a myth they do. The sand has lasted a bazillion years already...whats a few more? A good deep cleaning of the sand may be all that is needed, with an inspection of the laterals during this process. If you are getting sand in the pool it may be a lateral problem.

Robots rule when it comes to cleaning :)

Yes, you've found a group mad about our pools and we'll give you tons of support :) "Hi my name is Maddie...." <-sort of like that group, but better! :geek:

Maddie :flower:
 
Well...ya just burst me little bubble...but actually it is what I have suspected. Now for the rest of the story...

Prior to purchasing the house we had the home inspection and the pool inspection. The pool inspector was really good and taught me a lot about my systems, but not much about the chemical side of things. At that point it was nice and clear and looked really good. By the time we bought the house a few weeks later and then started performing repairs (as I said earlier it was a divorce sell and the husband had to evict the ex-wife so he could sell the house so we had to repair walls, paint, and perform a lot of maintenance) the pool had turned green. I bought a cheap test kit for CL and Ph and started trying to get it in the right "color levels." That is when I realized my chlorine level was too low and something was not functioning properly because the tabs were not dissolving in the tube. I dropped a couple in the skimmers and found the stuck valve on the bottom of the tube. Everything I add or do from this point in the story comes from the pool store "expert."

May circulation was not correct because there were 4 broken nozzles so I replaced them all, rebuilt the ladder with new steps, hardware, and bumpers/pads (only had one step left and no escutcheon rings or pads) and added new baskets in the skimmers, pump and net/sock thing in the pump basket. One light functioned at the home inspection, but by the time we moved in neither worked and the ground fault was tripping. I bought new light seals and replaced the incandescent bulbs with 250W wet rated LED flood bulbs. They worked marvelously for a week and then the ground fault started tripping again. Isolated the problem to the fixture in the deep end and replaced it with a new unit using the same LED bulb. I added a timer switch to the circuit and now the lights come on in the evening and stay on until we head to bed. Nice pleasant glow in the backyard.

Back to the water. During all this work, the water went from green to cloudy. I dumped in some Super Flox to drop the sediment and stopped all the pumps for a couple days to let it settle out. I vacuumed to waste all the stuff that fell to the bottom and added back a ton of water. I then took a sample of water to get analyzed to find out exactly what I needed. The results came back "good" but chlorine was a bit low. There were a lot of numbers on the analysis I did not understand (and still don't), but he said things were not bad, so I took it at that and added more chlorine via tabs. It was still cloudy and I could not see the bottom unless I let everything sit still and then it cleared up. If I started the Pentair it would get cloudy again. Something very fine was on the bottom and the filter could not seem to extract it no matter the # of backwashing. Add more water...vacuum to waste...back flush system...add Super Flox...rinse and repeat. Frustrated, I put the pool under a service contract. The first time the pool service guy came out, he added POUNDS of all kinds of stuff. Baking soda, and bottles of algicide, phosphate remover etc. Fortunately the chemicals are included in the service agreement or that would have been rough. However, it looked better, but was still cloudy. Add more water...vacuum to waste...back flush system...add Super Flox...rinse and repeat (seeing a pattern here yet?) I stopped using the Pentair because all it did was stir stuff up and make it cloudy. Without it running, I could actually see the bottom.

Last week I requested the service guy to vacuum to waste incase I was doing something wrong. I came back in from being out of town and there was "sand" on the bottom that would kick up when we walked or I brushed the bottom. I complained he did not vacuum because it was still here and so again I vacuumed to waste on Sunday (added more water) and it really cleared up. I could consistently see the bottom finally. However, a couple days ago when he came back, he stuck a brush in the pool and it kicked up clouds from the bottom. I had made sure I was home this time and told him to stop moving it around and get out the vacuum and get the sediment out of my pool. He complied and vacuumed to waste yet again. When he was finished, he proclaimed the sediment was sand from my filter and I need to get a sand change or I would continue to have this problem.

So, here I am with a pool that looks nice (unless I run the Pentair) and fine white sediment appearing out of nowhere (that my sand filter cannot remove) and now I find out that the guys I am paying a nice weekly fee are making things worse.

Ok...now that my bubble as been burst, someone pick up the pieces and slap some knowledge on me please.

- - - Updated - - -

I will go get a full panel test today and post all the numbers so someone can tell me what I am really looking at...:brickwall:
 
Al, see below. Laterals are those finger-like tubes where water flows.

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I will go get a full panel test today and post all the numbers so someone can tell me what I am really looking at...:brickwall:

I'm thinking the "full panel test" refers to a pool store test. Are you on board with getting a recommended test kit? https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/124-pool-test-kits-comparison We will be very hesitant about suggesting any course of action based on more pool store testing. Most basic test kits are missing one or two very key types of tests. I personally recommend the TF-100 with SpeedStir to aid in testing. http://tftestkits.net/Test-Kits-c4/
 
Ok...so I just ordered the TF-100 and a digital pH meter...but someone is going to have to point me to a link that provides me instructions and how to interpret the data this thing provides.

- - - Updated - - -

Al, see below. Laterals are those finger-like tubes where water flows.

Oh...well, I guess I need to remove the sand when I check/replace those so I will go ahead clean it out and put new sand back in it when I service it. Thanks for the explanation and potential cause of my sanding issues :bowdown:
 

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You can probably put the old sand back in if you clean it up real good first... try putting it into a wheelbarrow and washing it with a running hose.

Until your test kit arrives, pour in a gallon of bleach daily and brush it.

Maddie :flower: