Adjusting chemicals in new pool

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Mrswalkley

Mrswalkley

0
Aug 14, 2018
26
Montgomery/Tx
Recent water tests from local pool store 8/14.
After this, I followed some advice from pool store because I hadn’t found your forum yet.
After additions yesterday am, I found your site and have ordered the TF100 kit, which will be here later this week. And I downloaded and subscribed to the Pool Math app, which is where this log comes from.


==========================================
Walkley Pool
------------------------------------------
Build Type: Plaster
Volume: 31000 gallons
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Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 0.9 (17 hours ago)
CC: 0.6 (17 hours ago)
pH: 8.3 (17 hours ago)
TA: 169 (17 hours ago)
CH: 192 (17 hours ago)
CYA: 22 (17 hours ago)
==========================================

After these numbers, pool store had me add the following chemicals (but I was giving them estimate of volume 25000 gal; learned actual gallons = 31000 yesterday from builder):
1. CYA stabilizer but they told me to directly pour it into the skimmers, 3 lbs. which I did.
2. Add one gallon muriatic acid, which I did in two diluted parts separated by over six hours
3. 6 lbs of Calcium
4. Shock the pool. I added two pounds, of some shock chemical they sold me, in the pm.
4. My chlorine feeder is using tabs and set to run at 5. I’ve had trouble with the chlorine since pool turned over to me two weeks ago from builder. I now know I need to add bleach.

My plan, using the pool math app info, is to get 4 gallons bleach added to pool in next day, and retest pH, adding more acid as suggested by pool math based on my new numbers tomorrow AM.

—Anything I am missing?
—Did I waste chemicals or do harm by putting stabilizer directly in skimmers instead of in a sock for slow release?

thanks!
 
Last edited:
Well it will take a lot longer for the CYA to dissolve in your filter. Keep an eye on your filter pressure and water flow out of your returns and lets hope the CYA does not clog your filter.

You are doing great for a new pool owner!
 
Address pH first or SLAM?

We have a new 31k pebbletec pool just completed about two weeks ago.
My free chlorine levels are very low, and I understand how to address this.
But the pH is ridiculous, 8-8.5 even after we’ve added about six gallons acid over past 4-5 days.

I know I need to SLAM the pool, but the process says to fix the pH first. It seems like I am struggling against this new plaster affecting the pH, and I don’t know when I’ll get it corrected. My TA measurement is coming down, and the acid demand test is improving, showing need for less as time passes. This morning, I estimated need of another gallon or so. But this is same estimate for past 3 days.

Im afraid If I wait to add bleach til this pH corrects, I’m going to have serious problems. For what it’s worth, my bubblers have been off for past week.

Any ideas?
If I have to wait to correct pH, how often can I add acid, and in what quantities?
 
Welcome to TFP!
Good choice on the test kit and Great choice on following these folks recommendations! Very helpful forum and they always treat you with respect even when asked questions they have answered a 100 times and the information is almost always in pool school or posted elsewhere in forum.
Good luck and enjoy your (soon to be) trouble free pool!
 
Msch99 said:
Welcome to TFP!
Good choice on the test kit and Great choice on following these folks recommendations! Very helpful forum and they always treat you with respect even when asked questions they have answered a 100 times and the information is almost always in pool school or posted elsewhere in forum.
Good luck and enjoy your (soon to be) trouble free pool!
Click to expand...

thank you!
 
Re: Address pH first or SLAM?

Why do you think you need to SLAM Process a newly finished pool? They do not recommend high CL levels for new plaster. Can you post a full set of test results?

Keep on your PH. It can take months before the plaster cures and PH stops rising.
 

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Re: Address pH first or SLAM?

Mrswalkley said:
D you have a recommendation for how much acid can be added at one time?0
Click to expand...

I would do a gallon every 15 minutes, stir the water with a pole, keep pump running, retest, and add more as needed.

Watch your TA and dont let it fall below 50.

Test your PH more frequently and learn what the rate of PH rise is. Then you can catch the PH at about 8, add acid to bring it down to 7.6, and you shouldn’t be adding so much MA at one time. It may be adding MA every 8 to 12 hours. Run your PH high and don’t look to take it below 7.6.

BTW, please keep your pool story in one thread. It helps us see the full picture. You had another thread going and now this one.
 
Re: Address pH first or SLAM?

If you don't see algae, you probably don't need to SLAM.

If you think you need to SLAM because you can't hold chlorine, look at the CYA level. If nobody's added any yet, you'll lose all your chlorine within hours.

You have a big pool, but I would still limit myself to half a gallon of acid at a time, maybe spaced thirty minutes apart with the pump on, until the pH gets down onto the colorblock. Then use whatever it takes to get it where you want it.

You can add CYA and bleach the same day as the acid. You don't need to wait for the pH to be perfect. CYA can go in any time, using the sock method, and bleach should go in at least fifteen minutes after you've added acid.
 
Re: Address pH first or SLAM?

Managing pH during the first 30 days of new plaster is critical. Register your warranty with Pebbletec and follow the start up instructions that they send you. Keep pH between 7.2 and 7.8 at all times. Use PoolMath, link at top of page to calculate how much acid to add to lower your pH. Be sure to enter TA results also because TA has a direct impact on pH calculations.
 
Thank you all very much for the responses!

I do not see algae, but I thought I needed to add a lot of chlorine because every time I had the water tested, the pool people would freak out and say I don’t have any free chlorine in the pool.

Finally today, I had my husband take the water to a different pool store (my test kit hasn’t arrived yet, and I’m using a crappy one). And behold, the other pool store has almost perfect t numbers except for mildly elevated pH and TA. Added one more gallon acid today, and we should be there.

My CYA to FC ratio is slightly off, but the FC is up after adding shock yesterday.
Here are latest numbers from Leslie’s:

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Test Results 08-15-2018 @ 11:20 AM
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Free Chlorine: 7.5
Combined Chlorine: 7.5
pH: 7.8
Total Alkalinity: 120
Calcium Hardness: 140
CYA: 30


This was much better than I thought.
I don’t know how one pool store reads <1 ppm FC and another reads 7.5. But, I guess we are there except for pH. We added some acid today. Chlorinator is on level 3.
Guess will just start testing daily and observe what chlorine does. I am guessing I’ll have to add some more stabilizer shortly. My test kit should be here soon.
 
Your experience illustrates the general problem we have with pool store testing. We only know that tests personally done are accurate. You may like the numbers from store #2 but we dont know they are correct. We will see what you get when you start testing.
 
New log info, since I got TF-100 test kit:


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Build Type: Plaster
Volume: 31000 gallons
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 5.0 (42 minutes ago)
CC: 0.5 (42 minutes ago)
pH: >/= 8.2 (42 minutes ago)
TA: 160 (42 minutes ago)
CH: 375 (42 minutes ago)
CYA: 37 (42 minutes ago)
====================================

I added gallon 31% MA.
I am adding water to pool today due to lower levels from Evap.

Do do I need to add stabilizer? I am using chlorine tabs in the auto feeder, set at 3.


Thanks.
 
TF-100 results! :goodjob: You mentioned above you need to do a SLAM Process, so you have the right idea:
1 - No need to add any stabilizer at this point. Your CYA is closer to 40, so we'll call it 40 which makes your SLAM/Shock FC level a "16" as seen on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
2 - Just be careful with the muriatic acid. It's strong, so go in stages if you have to. Since your pH seems to be quite high (deep purple) over 8.2, when using PoolMath, enter ranges like "8.2 to 7.4" at first to determine the proper dosage amount. Let the water mix for about 15-20 minutes and check again. You should start to see the color changing. If you need to go lower, then do it again until you get the pH to about 7.2 (orange) which is perfect to start the SLAM Process. If you already added that full gallon of acid, then just re-test in about 20 minutes or so to see how it worked. Safety reminder - never add bleach and muriatic acid at the same time in the same location. Let one mix for a few minutes before adding the other. Consider brushing a bit if needed.

After that, you are ready to SLAM Process the pool. Maintain that FC of 16 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. Good luck!
 
I think I’m misunderstanding something even though I’ve read as much as I can get my hands on. SLAM is performed when you have algae, obviously, but I don’t have any algae. Only past couple of days have chlorine levels even started coming up. Prior, with poor testing, they were < .5.
So you’re saying (and my previous thinking) was I needed to SLAM in order to get the chlorine to a place where it’s high enough that it sticks around and doesn’t burn off every day? Or is there some hole in my thinking?

Another post stated new Pools shouldn’t need High chlorine levels right after build... or it’s not good for them. Could you comment on that?
 
I mentioned the SLAM only because you commented on it above is post #5. But if you have no signs of algae, then you do not need to increase the FC to 16 and SLAM. You just need to keep the FC balanced with your CYA (40) as seen on that [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. For the pH, no need to go down to 7.2. Just keep the pH in the mid 7s for now is fine.

Your TA is a bit elevated, but we can work that later once everything else settles.
 

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