Intellichlor IC-40 "Check flow/pcb" message

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S

serge

0
Nov 2, 2009
94
Katy, TX
Greetings to all...This is my first post in this forum and it goes as follows: I just acid/washed my IC-40 unit, due to pool store recommendation and "Low Salt" indicator (yellow light). Although there was some calcium build up, it wasn't much (pool was first opened in July 2009, and SWG started working in August). As I check the diagnostic screen in my easy Touch Unit, I noticed salt content is back to the same measurements (both pool store and test strips) but i see a "Check Flow/PCB" message. Does anyone what this is about?

thanks for your comments.
 
Oooh... Kind of mean, don't ya think? Maybe it's due to your location -- stop living inside that pool! :mrgreen:

I saw your post but was unable to provide credible information about this model. Have a little patience... folks with the Intellichlor will be along shortly to help out.
 
serge said:
Well..Thank you for the overwhelming amount of responses....I knew I could count on this great forum..

serge
Click to expand...

You're very welcome. I hope it helped. So, now that we've reached our sarcasm quotient for the day...

If none of the previous advice got you anywhere, you might want to check your flow switch. If you remove the panel that covers it you can test for continuity across the terminals (you may have to cut the wires and wire nut them back together). It should be open when the pump is off, closed when the pump is running. Here's a handy guide that explains how to replace it if you need to.
 
Warranty call is the best way to go at this point. You more than likely have one of the left over "problem" units and will probably have to be replaced. Make sure the warranty-er replaces with ver.2.0 or better.

Take the cover off the power center for the ic-40. Its the box the cell plugs into. Look at the PCB inside. If you have 3 resistors side by side, great. If you have one resistor and two jumpers (where resistors would go) next to it, Have him replace the board/power center as well.
 
Service guy came by today, checked software version and informed that the "CHK FLOW/PCB" message is a software bug that they are working on..It does not interfere with proper functioning of the chlorinator...I guess that's that on the case.

serge
 

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I have an intellichlor IC20 and had the same issue for a very long time. I acid washed all the time and eventually had to have the unit replaced (under warranty) 2 times. Pentair didn't even know what was wrong, they just kept replacing it and sure enough after a few months the same error would come back. Anyway, I finally figured out that the issue was high phosphates. If you already haven't done this take a water sample into your local pool supply store and have it tested. Make sure that you ask to test for phosphates because they probably won't unless you ask. If there are any phosphates present you need to use a product like PhosFree to remove them. I had a phosphate level of 2000 ppm (normal range is 0-200) so they recommended the commercial strength PhosFree which was $60. I used half the bottle (make sure to shake it well before pouring in) and then waited 3-4 days before taking another water sample back in to be re-tested. This time it was at 1000 ppm but the important thing is that the check flow/pcb error was gone and the salt level reading seemed to be within a close range of the actual salt level in the pool. I used the rest of the bottle to remove the last 1000 ppm and re-tested after another 3-4 days. Phosphates were under 100 ppm and the salt reading on the easy touch was spot on with the salt test strips that I use.

I found out that jacks magic (purple stuff) was the main culprit. It has phosphates in it and apparently phosphates coat the sensor and can't be removed with acid washing. I now use a product called Metal Free by the same makers of PhosFree since it has no phosphates in it but I think jacks magic also makes a phosphate free product as well.

Recently though I started noticing that the salt level on the easy touch started to drop off little by little until it got down to 2500 while the actual salt level was at 3400. I went back in to the pool store to test for phosphates and they were only at 175. The guy told me that anything under 200 is fine and not to worry so I called pentair and they told me that the unit is very sensitive to phosphates and that you basically need to remove all phosphates in order for the unit to work. I wish they had told me this before I had the unit replaced twice. Even a small amount of phosphates will coat the sensor and over time it will build up. The only way to fix it is to remove ALL phosphates and keep them out. They recommended a maintenance of regular PhosFree to make sure that there isn't a build up of phosphates (apparently tap water even has around 100 ppm). Basically get your water tested and if there is any phosphates present, remove them and keep them out. Don't mean to ramble on but this drove me crazy for the better part of a year so hopefully this will help you out so you don't go through the same thing.

Good Luck,
Steve
 
Steve...Thanks so much for sharing your experience with us...I am on my way to the pool store to check for phosphates...It makes sense that there could be phosphates in my water as the pool was first started in July and the PB used Jack Magic to get it going...

I will post developments here regarding my Check Flow/PCB issue as this could be the answer to the problem at hand...Thanks again..

serge
 
Serge,

Sorry that didn't work out for you. I'd definetly give pentair a call and demand that they replace the unit (assuming it's still under warranty). It sounds like there isn't much else you can do. It shouldn't be too difficult to get them to do it as they replaced mine twice. Yeah, it might take a few phone calls to get someone good to help you, but they should do it.

And to spishex, I'm not a rep for natural chemistry. You can use any product you want. But if something works for me I'm gonna let people know what I used. As for phosphates not being a problem with the intellichlor, you can believe that if you want to. All I know is that when phosphates were at 2000 I had a check flow/pcb error. When the phosphates were gone so was the error.
 
Sometimes, as a test at a customer site, I will put the blank in place of the cell, test the flow switch, fill a bucket with distilled water,salt it and check for a chlorine output a few minutes later. That tells me the cell is making chlorine but not how much. That, I can eyeball by the hydrogen bubbles and varying the power level. Retesting with pool water follows and I'll take it from there.

Scott
PoolGuyNJ
 
Steve_01 said:
I have an intellichlor IC20 and had the same issue for a very long time. I acid washed all the time and eventually had to have the unit replaced (under warranty) 2 times. Pentair didn't even know what was wrong, they just kept replacing it and sure enough after a few months the same error would come back. Anyway, I finally figured out that the issue was high phosphates. If you already haven't done this take a water sample into your local pool supply store and have it tested. Make sure that you ask to test for phosphates because they probably won't unless you ask. If there are any phosphates present you need to use a product like PhosFree to remove them. I had a phosphate level of 2000 ppm (normal range is 0-200) so they recommended the commercial strength PhosFree which was $60. I used half the bottle (make sure to shake it well before pouring in) and then waited 3-4 days before taking another water sample back in to be re-tested. This time it was at 1000 ppm but the important thing is that the check flow/pcb error was gone and the salt level reading seemed to be within a close range of the actual salt level in the pool. I used the rest of the bottle to remove the last 1000 ppm and re-tested after another 3-4 days. Phosphates were under 100 ppm and the salt reading on the easy touch was spot on with the salt test strips that I use.

I found out that jacks magic (purple stuff) was the main culprit. It has phosphates in it and apparently phosphates coat the sensor and can't be removed with acid washing. I now use a product called Metal Free by the same makers of PhosFree since it has no phosphates in it but I think jacks magic also makes a phosphate free product as well.

Recently though I started noticing that the salt level on the easy touch started to drop off little by little until it got down to 2500 while the actual salt level was at 3400. I went back in to the pool store to test for phosphates and they were only at 175. The guy told me that anything under 200 is fine and not to worry so I called pentair and they told me that the unit is very sensitive to phosphates and that you basically need to remove all phosphates in order for the unit to work. I wish they had told me this before I had the unit replaced twice. Even a small amount of phosphates will coat the sensor and over time it will build up. The only way to fix it is to remove ALL phosphates and keep them out. They recommended a maintenance of regular PhosFree to make sure that there isn't a build up of phosphates (apparently tap water even has around 100 ppm). Basically get your water tested and if there is any phosphates present, remove them and keep them out. Don't mean to ramble on but this drove me crazy for the better part of a year so hopefully this will help you out so you don't go through the same thing.

Good Luck,
Steve
Click to expand...

What I am not seeing in your above story is any mention of a filter cleaning(s). Dropping phosphates by 1000 on two different occations must have incurred some filter cleanings.

So with that being said, are you saying that your check flow light went out before you cleand the now dirty filter packed with phosphates? Or did the flow light go out after you cleaned the filter?
Just wanted to make sure we have the full story.
 
Didn't mean to skip over every single procedure. Anyway, here goes:

Had check flow/pcb error on the first IC20 after several months. Called pentair numerous times to get them to fix the problem. They ended up replacing it. Next IC20 was in for a few months and same issue came back. Again called pentair numerous times before they again replaced unit. 3rd IC20 (which is the same one I have now which is a Ver.2 unit) was in for a few months before again having same issue. Called pentair and they told me that since they had replaced the unit twice already they would need a water test done and asked me to fax it to them. I went and got the sample done and the guy at the pool supply place asked me if they wanted it tested for phosphates. I had no idea as they had never mentioned it to me but he said that they probably would. This was the first time that I had ever had water tested for phosphates. The guy told me that phosphates were at 2000 and that they would most definetly blame the problem on that. So he told me to use phosfree to get it down to a reasonable level and then come back for a retest before faxing it in to them. He and I both thought that the phosphate stuff was a joke and not causing the check flow problem but again, it was pretty obvious that they would blame it on that as my level was pretty high. So, first dose started with me cleaning my cartridge filter before adding anything. I then added half the bottle per the directions and let the filter run for 24 hours straight. Water was very cloudy for several days. Once water became clear (about 3 days later), I again cleaned filter and let run for 24 hours before taking in another water sample. It was now at 1000 so again he said that they would still think this is too high so I went back home. Checked the diagnostics and saw no check flow error. I went ahead and added the other half of the bottle anyway thinking that it could be a fluke that the error went away as this would happen sometimes from day to day. Again waited a few days for water to clear up, cleaned filter and took back water sample. This time phosphates were less than 200 and since the check flow error still hadn't come back I didn't even bother with pentair. The unit has worked fine ever since except now the salt reading is a little lower than it should be. This could be due to low temperature though so I'm not that worried about it. As long as I don't have the check flow error I'm ok with it. Hope this satisfies you.
 

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