Also, just noticed that you mentioned the flow light in your response. The problem that I was having was not the flow light on the unit itself. It was a check flow/pcb error that would show up in the diagnostics on the easy touch panel. For me it caused the cell light to only come on for a minute or two before shutting back off which meant no chlorine being produced when the check flow error showed up.
Intellichlor IC-40 "Check flow/pcb" message
- Thread starter serge
- Start date
In the several months while you had the "check flow" error, had you cleaned the cart at any time BEFORE you added the phosphate remover? From what i gather from your post, you only cleaned the cart after adding the phosfree. If thats the case, it would be hard to tell if your solved error message was due to the phosphate reduction or, most likely from cleaning the cart really well.
I have a sand filter and i know that if the pressure goes up even 6 pounds or so, i can get a low flow error on my Pentair as well.
I have a sand filter and i know that if the pressure goes up even 6 pounds or so, i can get a low flow error on my Pentair as well.
Steve_01 said:
Just saw this. So its clear, you had a GREEN flow light on the IC-20 itself, but the check flow errors was just on the easytouch box? If thats the case, then you could have disabled the Easy Touch panel control for the IC-20 and just let the unit itself work. If the IC20 worked then, it would have been easy to diagnose a faulty board in the control panel rather than a faulty generator.
To close the case, Pentair did admit there was a software bug that prompted the "Check Flow/PCB" error and some other issues related to the freeze protection circuit (on/off at intervals, etc). I now have Ver.2.08 and will check that all bugs have been corrected.
Guys, I have the answer to the problem:
My equipment was less than a year old, but were old firmware versions, so covered under warranty.
1. My outdoor control panel was able to be flashed to 2.080 firmware, and my error message changed to "Low Flow".
2. My indoor controller was originally 1.043 firmware and could not be flashed to 2.080 - it would be erased but could not be written over. They had to replace it with a newer version controller that could be flashed to 2.080. Still getting "Low Flow" message from Intellichlor.
3. We then changed out my intellichlor to their newest model which has a few less LED's on it. No more error message - salt level correct!
Obviously, this cold Texas winter screwed everything up with the firmware on these units basically requiring a near complete changeout of the hardware. Luckily I was under warranty. I hope Pentair is fully aware of this and helps everyone out appropriately.
Good luck.
My equipment was less than a year old, but were old firmware versions, so covered under warranty.
1. My outdoor control panel was able to be flashed to 2.080 firmware, and my error message changed to "Low Flow".
2. My indoor controller was originally 1.043 firmware and could not be flashed to 2.080 - it would be erased but could not be written over. They had to replace it with a newer version controller that could be flashed to 2.080. Still getting "Low Flow" message from Intellichlor.
3. We then changed out my intellichlor to their newest model which has a few less LED's on it. No more error message - salt level correct!
Obviously, this cold Texas winter screwed everything up with the firmware on these units basically requiring a near complete changeout of the hardware. Luckily I was under warranty. I hope Pentair is fully aware of this and helps everyone out appropriately.
Good luck.
Thanks...in fact, mine has same exact problem after being updated to version 2.08 (both, outside panel and easytouch control)...Now I see a "Low Flow" error. I will talk to my PB again and ask for a new unit since mine is still under warranty.
Pool Clown
In The Industry
Scott,PoolGuyNJ said:
You may find this to be helpful/less hassle, First the pool must have little or no Cl. This is usually not a problem because thats why your there. What i do is unscrew (crack) the down stream side union and let it leak. it don't need to leak much because your just filling up a vile to check Cl, and test that way to confirm the cell is working. You will know if it is putting out enough if the test is bright yellow (never gotten a red color). If you need to see the bubbles, i can usually confirm at one of the returns. Check all of them, in some cases you'll only get bubbles out of one return. Hope this saves you some time.