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Thread: defeat caulk/water problem in closed pool

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    489

    defeat caulk/water problem in closed pool

    I have a very unfortunate situation. The caulk that is between the brick coping and concrete deck is lower than both of those surfaces. The concrete deck has risen the tad. This is the last thing in the world that you want because all the water puddles onto the caulk instead of draining away. Regardless of how good the caulk is, if there are any holes, water will fill the area you do not want it to fill.
    I have 2 area’s that are really problematic & I want to avoid problems that have already occurred, see photo.
    For these two problem areas, I draped a double layered sheet of plastic that will hang well beyond the brick into the pool and will hang well beyond the brick onto the concrete deck, see photo. My actual plastic extends well beyond what you see in the photo & is weighted down w my safety cover & bricks, the photo was just a quick thing I wanted to show the concept.

    I would like to know if any of you strongly advised that I remove the plastic. I am sure it will keep rain water off of my caulk area, but I do realize that it will likely be wet from condensation essentially all of the time. I expect that when I remove the plastic next spring I could see mold/mildew/algae that I will treat with which bleach directly on the problem (except on the caulk).

    I would like to know if any of you strongly advises that I remove the plastic.

    What a disaster! Essentially unfixable- but if anyone has any suggestions I am all ears. Yes I know get the caulk perfect; if perfect it'll eventally leak, if not when it is new then when it is older. Major PITA
    Attached Images Attached Images
    19,800 gallons (closed/winter 18,654 gal); plaster; 18x34 Ft kidney bean shape, Depth 3Ft-5Ft. Built 1992
    Pentair Whisper Flow Pump 1HP. Winter safety cover w anchors.
    Sand filter, Pentair Sand Dollar Top Mount Model SD80; Effective Filtration Area 3.5SF
    - FlowRate 75GPM, 8Hr 36,000, 10Hr 45,000, 12Hr 54,000; Pressure Weight 50PSI
    BBB (Hayward Chlorinator when leave town). Polaris 360 cleaner.

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South Central NJ
    Posts
    3,192

    Re: defeat caulk/water problem in closed pool

    Do what you are doing and plan on in the Spring.

    Then, either before the trees and shrubs send out the pollen or after, have the expansion joint resealed. The self leveling caulk used takes about a week to cure and should last about 5 to 10 years. It also comes in colors.

    Resealing usually requires removing the old, filling any voids to about a 1/2" of the surface and pouring the new stuff around the pool perimeter.

    HTH;

    Scott
    PoolGuyNJ
    Owner of - PoolGuyNJ LLC
    Expert Pool and Spa Repairs, Renovations, and Augmentation. Helping people decide what is the right gear for meeting their needs. Expectations Set, Expectations Met, No Surprises.

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    489

    Re: defeat caulk/water problem in closed pool

    Will do, thanks, that brick chip area has been improved just not ideal & I will re-caulk.

    "either before the trees and shrubs send out the pollen or after..."
    Have you found pollen an issue or do you say this for some other reason (interesting)?

    Can you or anyone explain why that slab rose higher than the caulk & brick, as seen in the center photo?
    19,800 gallons (closed/winter 18,654 gal); plaster; 18x34 Ft kidney bean shape, Depth 3Ft-5Ft. Built 1992
    Pentair Whisper Flow Pump 1HP. Winter safety cover w anchors.
    Sand filter, Pentair Sand Dollar Top Mount Model SD80; Effective Filtration Area 3.5SF
    - FlowRate 75GPM, 8Hr 36,000, 10Hr 45,000, 12Hr 54,000; Pressure Weight 50PSI
    BBB (Hayward Chlorinator when leave town). Polaris 360 cleaner.

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South Central NJ
    Posts
    3,192

    Re: defeat caulk/water problem in closed pool

    Pollen will stick to fresh caulk permanently. Kind of unsightly.

    WRT the slab rise, I'd say it's more likely that the slab dipped in the back causing the pool edge to rise on a pivot.

    When I speck a replacement concrete deck, I like to add in regularly spaced footers to the slab to rest on. This way, when the ground below settles, the footers will keep things where they belong. It costs more up front but you don't get the deck elevation changes.

    Scott
    PoolGuyNJ
    Owner of - PoolGuyNJ LLC
    Expert Pool and Spa Repairs, Renovations, and Augmentation. Helping people decide what is the right gear for meeting their needs. Expectations Set, Expectations Met, No Surprises.

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