Ugly green pool - how much Chlorine to add? (pics included)

[HardTrance9]

Hi again,

I am still getting some data on where to get the washing soda or soda ash for the other pool I posted about (GM on my signature).

This is another one. Just read again all of the pool school and some posts in the forum but have the following questions... maybe somebody could help me out with the very basic process for this:

When shocking this pool (MS on singature), considering the pictures attached:

Pool type: chlorine
Pool surface: plaster
Pool capacity: 9,257 US gallons

1) The pump was running. We turned off today completely. Is this correct? (someone said there was no need to leave the pump running as the filter could get very saturated?)

2) I read on the PS that I should test the FC right? Is there anything else I should test considering how it looks now?

3) I read at the PS that it is difficult to determine the exact amount of chlorine to add. Someone said to me that a way of shocking the pool was to put chlorine in the pool (walking around the pool) until it would turn white and a little transparent. In the picutres you can see the bottom but today, thanks to the pump that was running, it was green completely and the bottom dissapeared.

This person in summary said:

- do this when the sun goes off
- turn off the pump
- superchlorinate / shock the pool until it gets white (around 30 min)
- add 2 liters of algicide diluted in to 10 liters of water and fill it into the pool (walking around)
- then add 2 kg of pH stabilizer also diluted in to 10 liters of water
- this will cause small white pieces to absorb the algae and will fall to the bottom
- next day before the sun warms the pool, use the filter to drain water using the hose and vacuum to remove the white "pieces"
- check chlorine levels and have it to 3.5

How does this sounds to you?

 

[polyvue]

Pool type: chlorine
Pool surface: plaster
Pool capacity: 9,257 US gallons

1) The pump was running. We turned off today completely. Is this correct? (someone said there was no need to leave the pump running as the filter could get very saturated?)

2) I read on the PS that I should test the FC right? Is there anything else I should test considering how it looks now?

3) I read at the PS that it is difficult to determine the exact amount of chlorine to add. Someone said to me that a way of shocking the pool was to put chlorine in the pool (walking around the pool) until it would turn white and a little transparent. In the picutres you can see the bottom but today, thanks to the pump that was running, it was green completely and the bottom dissapeared.

This person in summary said:

- do this when the sun goes off
- turn off the pump
- superchlorinate / shock the pool until it gets white (around 30 min)
- add 2 liters of algicide diluted in to 10 liters of water and fill it into the pool (walking around)
- then add 2 kg of pH stabilizer also diluted in to 10 liters of water
- this will cause small white pieces to absorb the algae and will fall to the bottom
- next day before the sun warms the pool, use the filter to drain water using the hose and vacuum to remove the white "pieces"
- check chlorine levels and have it to 3.5

How does this sounds to you?

Please don't take this wrong... but this approach doesn't sound very good. I think the right way to go about this is to 1) Test the water first, and then 2) Treat the water, based on the test results.

This pool certainly looks like a disaster now, but it's not unfixable. Unless the multi-port valve has been set on "recirculate" the pumping and filtering are not the problem... You can backwash the filter, vacuum the pool, add some liquid chlorine (while the pump is running), brush the sides. You might even want to drain the entire pool. But first, suggest reading this thread and running full tests* before you begin shocking or taking other actions.

:-D :-D

* pH; Free Chlorine (FC); Combined Chlorine (CC); Calcium Hardness (CH); Total Alkalinity (TA); CYanuric Acid (CYA)

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

How does this sounds to you?

Like you got bad advice.

But first, suggest reading this thread and running full tests* before you begin shocking or taking other actions.

Now that's good advice.

Always keep the pump running 24/7 when shocking, it prevents FC dead spots. Yes, the clarity won't be as good, but that's only at first.

 

[duraleigh]

HT9,

Your still new to the forum, but if you'll commit to the methods taught here (like the excellent advice your getting from FPM and polyvue) and disregard other advice that is in disagreement, you will soon have clear pools.

I know that may come across as being arrogant, but the fact is that the way we teach works. It works every time in every situation. The sooner you commit to learning the info in Pool School and following the advice given, the sooner you can get your pools clear. You must take test results first before anyone can give you any advice.....you or no one else has any idea what that pool needs until you post test results (that's one nasty, neglected pool)

You are off to a good start by being able to test accurately, now you need to follow the guidance and articles here and up in Pool School and we can get the pools cleared up.

PS - turning off the pump is a disastrous idea....your pump should be running 24/7 and you should be backwashing as needed

The longer you delay getting soda ash or 20 mule team borax (or pH up from the pool store), the longer you will waste time clearing these pools.

 

[HardTrance9]

Ok, thanks to all again.

Those comments or procedures were suggested by some sort of a pool guy who was passing by and I got to meet him by luck. He went to some special training for valves, plumbing, pumps, etc.. more technical mechanical and how to build pools, but after reading here many things I could tell he doesn't know that much about the chemicals and tests, etc. as he should.

I was just trying to give you an example on how things are ran over here. Yep.. I know, not very good AT ALL.

Believe me guys, I am learning so much thanks to you and TFP. I will follow your advise no doubt!

Sorry If by posting somethings I make myself unclear on this. For me you are the real experts. I am just adjusting a little to how to post and deal with some of the pool issues. I am also learning from the very basic of the basic (how to vacuum correctly for example, and all that because here everyone has it's own style! hehe).

I will run the tests and turn on the pump again to how it was (filtration mode) and then will post back.

Thanks as always!

 

[HardTrance9]

Hi again..

Well finally after very busy days here are the results for the pool called MS on my signature:

(pump was turned on again some days ago)

Made two tests: one if the water as it is in the pool and the other filtering the water with a coffee filter just in case.. (at least 1 ft deep)

Tests
-----
Normal Coffee filter
------- ------------
FC 6.0 4.5
CC 1.0 1.0
TC 7.0 5.5
pH 8.2 8.2
TA 150 180
CH 400 410
CYA 100 80

The Ch/Bromine reading was 5.0/10

Pool capacity: 9,257 US gallons
Pool material: plaster


I got one sample bag from someone who claimed that it containds some sort of soda ash... (sosa comercial in Spanish).

Does it look like it could be it? Sorry for the bad pic, just have my cel cam for now.

What would you recommend now considering this results? What other info. should I get?

Thanks!

 

[duraleigh]

I have no idea what's in the bag but guessing and tossing it in will likely cause you more problems than you started with.

pH control is a PRIMARY function of pool management. If you cannot find the correct chemistry to control pH, I would suggest you let someone else care for the pools.

You need to Reduce your pH to the mid 7's and then we'll go from there.

Your test results look very accurate but there is nothing to be done until you get the pH under control.

 

[HardTrance9]

I have no idea what's in the bag but guessing and tossing it in will likely cause you more problems than you started with.

pH control is a PRIMARY function of pool management. If you cannot find the correct chemistry to control pH, I would suggest you let someone else care for the pools.

You need to Reduce your pH to the mid 7's and then we'll go from there.

Your test results look very accurate but there is nothing to be done until you get the pH under control.

Hi,

Unfortunately, over here there is nobody you can hire to take care of the pools properly. They know how to clean, vacuum, identify the plumbing, etc., but not the chemistry.

Will find a way to reduce the pH and get back to TFP...

Thanks

 

[HardTrance9]

On question here:

In this pool the CYA level is very high too.. what to do first?

Lower the CYA level by emptying 50% of the pool?

or

balance the pH as Dave suggested?

I would think that first is the CYA then the pH but I am not certain... :?

Sorry if it is a dumb question, but rather ask before doing...

Thanks for your help

 

[PaulR]

If there's ever a reason to replace water, do that first. If you add stuff, then dump half the water, then basically half of what you added is literally down the drain.
--paulr

 

[polyvue]

If there's ever a reason to replace water, do that first. If you add stuff, then dump half the water, then basically half of what you added is literally down the drain.

Just posting to say that I agree with Paul. Drain enough of the pool to reduce the CYA to 50 ppm or less and then correct pH, as Dave suggested. No harm in adjusting the pH first but you'll save a bit of money on chemicals if you drain and refill before adjusting.

 

[HardTrance9]

Ok, perfect many thanks!

Now we ran out of water!! and don't know when the service will be reestablished again.

Silly question: if needed, does adding water from a water truck is recommendable or not? Has anyone done this before?

I think it could depend on the water quality from the water truck? Just thinking on an alternative plan to fill the pool in case it takes time for water to come back.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Many people, especially those who have rural wells, have water trucked in. But obviously you want some sort of assurance that the trucked in water is usable...

 

[HardTrance9]

Many people, especially those who have rural wells, have water trucked in. But obviously you want some sort of assurance that the trucked in water is usable...

Many thanks for your reply! Modsquad..

All the pools over here have "street/city" water and rural wells. It is a rural town/area over here (dirt roads, etc.)

By usable you mean it has to have some minimum level on an specific indicator? pH, CH or other for instance?
Before buying a water truck I can go test the water to know, but wouldn't know the minimum requirements for this SWG pool or any other pool?

Will check on the water anyways and try to test it.

Thanks a lot!

 

[polyvue]

By usable you mean it has to have some minimum level on an specific indicator? pH, CH or other for instance?

I think frustratedpoolmom just means it should be potable (drinkable) water or water that doesn't have excessive levels of minerals, etc. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything to test the water you're adding... but if it's potable, it should be fine for a swimming pool.

 

[HardTrance9]

Hi,

Just wanted to let you know that the pool has been drained out and now is refilling with a hose (this pool, labeled MS on signature) doesn't have a floater or so. It this normal? Thought all pools had to have a floater?

After the refill, will test again some indicators to try to stabilize the pH on 7.5-7.8 at least as suggested? and then start with the shocking.. Before I will post the results here...

I think it will take a while to fill up again.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

By usable you mean it has to have some minimum level on an specific indicator? pH, CH or other for instance?

I think frustratedpoolmom just means it should be potable (drinkable) water or water that doesn't have excessive levels of minerals, etc. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything to test the water you're adding... but if it's potable, it should be fine for a swimming pool.

Yup, that's what I meant.

Hi,

Just wanted to let you know that the pool has been drained out and now is refilling with a hose (this pool, labeled MS on signature) doesn't have a floater or so. It this normal? Thought all pools had to have a floater?

After the refill, will test again some indicators to try to stabilize the pH on 7.5-7.8 at least as suggested? and then start with the shocking.. Before I will post the results here...

I think it will take a while to fill up again.

I think we're having a terminology issue... what do you mean all pools "should have a floater?"

 

[HardTrance9]

I think we're having a terminology issue... what do you mean all pools "should have a floater?"

Ups, sorry about my English... I just thought that pools in general would have a "floater" system that helps them fill up
with city water and once a certain level in the pool is reached, then the filling will stop.

But I guess there are pools like this one (green water) that you have to fill up with a hose and it is normal right?

Sorry for this very basic question...

And thanks again...

 

[polyvue]

Ups, sorry about my English... I just thought that pools in general would have a "floater" system that helps them fill up
with city water and once a certain level in the pool is reached, then the filling will stop.

Aaaah, your English is fine... it's the term that was not understood. A "floater" could mean a covered plastic object that some people use with Trichlor tabs -- it floats on top of the water, releasing chlorine (and CYA) gradually.

I think what you're referring to most folks here would call an automatic fill or auto fill valve. And, of course, you're correct in that it does have a float mechanism that makes the automation possible. Amazingly, not all pools are installed with automatic fills. Perhaps I'm lazy, but I can't imagine not having one.

 

[HardTrance9]

Ups, sorry about my English... I just thought that pools in general would have a "floater" system that helps them fill up
with city water and once a certain level in the pool is reached, then the filling will stop.

Aaaah, your English is fine... it's the term that was not understood. A "floater" could mean a covered plastic object that some people use with Trichlor tabs -- it floats on top of the water, releasing chlorine (and CYA) gradually.

I think what you're referring to most folks here would call an automatic fill or auto fill valve. And, of course, you're correct in that it does have a float mechanism that makes the automation possible. Amazingly, not all pools are installed with automatic fills. Perhaps I'm lazy, but I can't imagine not having one.

Ohhh! Ok, great! Many thanks for letting me know why there was confusion with the "floater" issue. Here US and Canadians call it a "the floater system" hehe...

Thanks for the short lesson and terminology. Very much appreciated

More later on this pool...