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Thread: Leaking booster pump...

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    Leaking booster pump...

    I have a friend that somehow set their equipment to "Spa Drain" - and left it that way for several days. It burned up the motor on their main pump - and Leslie's repaired it under warranty (pure luck). However, once we got the main pump back in, the booster pump leaks a lot around the shaft between the motor and the impeller container.

    I found the seals at: http://www.poolcenter.com/service_repai ... #GO-KIT-71

    Is this an easy replacement?

    Thanks.

    - Jeff
    ~45Kg Pool with attached Spa, NSP-72 DE, Minmax 400 Heater, Tahoe Blue Pebbletech, Jandy SWG via Aqualink RS-8, The Pool Cleaner (black)
    Pumps: X3 Hybrid Pump (switches to SPA), 2HP Spa (additional, when SPA is on), and a 1HP For Waterfall
    8, 4x12 Solar Panels on the roof of the pool-house (~12' up)
    CAPTAIN JAMES T. KIRK: "I'M SORRY. I CAN'T HEAR YOU OVER THE SOUND OF HOW AWESOME I AM" (Thanks to TFP!)

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    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    83

    Re: Leaking booster pump...

    I replaced a seal in my pump a few years ago, it was pretty easy but they warn you NOT to touch certain parts of the seal, and make sure you watch carefully how everything comes apart. If the pump is not too old, this shouldn't be too hard for a home DIY'er. I think with older pumps, the frustration of stuck/worn parts and the chance of breaking something else almost makes the cost of a new pump worth it.

    Good luck!
    28K IG Vinyl lined pool - 1 skimmer, 2 returns
    Hayward DE 60sqft filter; Polaris 280 vacuum with booster pump

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    spishex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Hillsborough, NC
    Posts
    1,375

    Re: Leaking booster pump...

    The typical Polaris booster pump takes an AS/PS-1000 seal which is the hardest seal to replace, IMO. You can do it, but if you're buying the seal online I'd consider buying an extra one because they're very easy to break.

    Unlike a normal seal in which the ceramic side sits in the seal plate and the graphite/springy side sits on the impeller shaft, this one is reversed. The ceramic side is easy to set in place on the impeller, but the graphite half has a metal backing that has to be tapped into place in the seal plate. If you find the right piece of pipe (I think a 1" coupling is perfect, but it might be 3/4"... can't remember. ) to slide over it and tap it with it makes the job much easier.

    Good luck!

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