Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Switching from Synergy to Dichlor and Trichlor

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Switching from Synergy to Dichlor and Trichlor

    I used Synergy tabs and Clear in my first year pool this season. I was thinking about switching to just Trichlor and Dichlor and maybe some Borax to simulate the same thing without the same expense.

    Does this sound reasonable? What will i miss?
    10,000 gallon
    Viking Freeform Fiberglass Inground Pool. FNS Plus DE Filter Pentair Challenger .75hp pump

    NC KANSAS44

  2. Back To Top    #2
    spishex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Hillsborough, NC
    Posts
    1,375

    Re: Switching from Synergy to Dichlor and Trichlor

    That's the right way to go. The only thing you'll miss is the added expense of buying the old product.

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Rafael, CA USA
    Posts
    12,085

    Re: Switching from Synergy to Dichlor and Trichlor

    Synergy, as shown in this MSDS file, is just Trichlor with some Borax to not be quite so acidic. Synergy Clear, as shown in this MSDS file, is just Dichlor (a pretty weak form of it -- more impure than even the dihydrate form).

    However, have you read the Pool School and are you aware of how quickly the Cyanuric Acid (CYA), aka stabilizer or conditioner, will build up from use of these products?

    For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it will increase CYA by 6 ppm.
    For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it will increase CYA by 9 ppm.

    Even if you had a low 1 ppm FC per day chlorine usage, continued use of Trichlor would increase CYA by over 100 ppm in 6 months. If you used Dichlor, then the CYA would increase by over 160 ppm in 6 months. This assumes no water dilution, so no splash-out, backwashing, rain overflow, etc. (but not evaporation and refill since that only removes water and not CYA). If you do not raise the FC level as the CYA climbs or do not use an algicide (at extra cost), your pool is much more likely to get algae growth. You can instead maintain your pool using unstabilized chlorine (chlorinating liquid or bleach) and keep the CYA level constant, only occasionally using Trichlor to bring up the CYA if needed. The downside with chlorinating liquid or bleach is that you'll have to add it every day or two unless you have a pool cover opaque to UV in which case you could add it twice a week.

    Richard
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

  4. Back To Top    #4
    polyvue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, California USA
    Posts
    1,215

    Re: Switching from Synergy to Dichlor and Trichlor

    Quote Originally Posted by Thinkly
    I used Synergy tabs and Clear in my first year pool this season. I was thinking about switching to just Trichlor and Dichlor and maybe some Borax to simulate the same thing without the same expense.
    You'd save even more by using liquid chlorine...

    Whatever you elect to do next year, do have a good test kit handy because you'll need to closely monitor CYA and TDS, not to mention borates, FC, CC, etc. Using trichlor regularly will likely contribute to a steady increase in cyanuric acid -- but perhaps this is old news to you?

    If you have a lot of spash-out (or a filter that requires regular backwashing) you may not have the problem with CYA accretion that other pool operators have.

    • EDIT See chem geek's comments, above, for details on this. END EDIT
      Edited by Greg - October 19, 2009 7:30pm
    14,555 gal in-ground 16'x29' white plaster Pool w/spa (2007); Goldline Aqua Logic AQL-PS-8 control w/Aqua Cell 15 Salt Water Chlorination (SWCG); Hayward TriStar 1HP (1.85 SF) main / 1.5HP (1.60 SF) spa pumps; Hayward Swimclear cart filter C4025, ColorLogic LED lights; Tankless SP-18-4 electric heater; Polaris 280 cleaner.
    __
    View of spiral galaxy in Ursa Major NGC6217 - Hubble Telescope 2009

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •