Algae - Cause by street water?

HardTrance9

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Oct 2, 2009
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Los Cabos
Hi everyone.

It seems we have a little problem with one of the salt water pools.... (just came back today Oct 7th from checking this)..

As it is a new pool we are taking care of, our operator reported that after doing the regular cleaning and scrubbing and checked the pH level and chlorine for a few weeks, he found that all of his efforts were in vain. Every 4 days he would find again the same areas of the pool with algae.. mustard colored type or yellow he said...

He said that there is a direct connection from the city water (quality of water over here is not good, plus is very hot, around 90 to 104ºF) to the pool, and exactly where the water flows in from this connection, he will always find this algae at the bottom of the pool.

When he told me this I got worried because I don't if this "direct city water connection" is normal??

Has anybody had a problem like this before? Or does anybody has any general suggestions for now?

It is night already and will try to get more info. in the next days, but I was thinking in the need for a filter before the water flows into the water or make a complete new connection to the pump, filters, etc.?

Sorry I my questions read a little lost... Don't know exactly which questions to be made to have an initial diagnosis of this problem..

Thanks!
 
I don't think the algae is directly caused by the water supply. It sounds like it could be indirectly causing it. What I mean is that where the water is entering the pool may be causing a local low chlorine condition allowing the algae to grow faster in that particular area. Since you have algae you will have to shock the pool to get rid of it.

I also think you have a larger problem. You're either not keeping the FC high enough or you're not keeping it high enough for the amount of CYA you have.

Do you have a complete set of numbers?
 
Thanks for your replies.

I am working on getting the full set of numbers. I read about the policies of the forum... and I know that posting without numbers is a nuisance but part of my problem is that our strips and all of that are bad (got over this activity from someone else and they had no good equipment or test kits at all + pluse here are hard to find or get!).

I will test the FC and the CYA and other indicators asap and post them.

What I wanted to know initially is if the city water that flows into the pool could be a problem over and over? Water over here is not that "clean" and what I wouldn't like to deal with is having to replenish the Chlorine amounts or other chemicals into the pool too often because of the water issue? In other words I could add chemical all the time but the problem would never be solved I don't go the source I think.

Do you think running a chem test on the city water and posting them here would help too? Maybe that way I could know if some sort of special filter has to be placed before the water flows into the pool?

Thanks, more later!
 
HardTrance9 said:
Do you think running a chem test on the city water and posting them here would help too?
In your situation, it would be good to test both the city water (also known as make-up or fill water) and the pool water. When you conduct these tests, post both of these results.

I'm pretty you can order AquaChek strips via mail order... AquaChek Silver (Plata) 7-way strips are pretty good and include "Tests for Total Hardness, Total Chlorine, Total Bromine, Free Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity and Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer)" There are 100 test strips in each bottle. You should be able to find a source on-line or at a water treatment or pool store in Baja California Sur. For information about this product and others, see Aqua Chek Silver or Aqua Chek Plata

Using test strips is much better than not testing, but drop-test kits are still the way to go...
 
Hardtrance,

What you will likely find in the city water is chlorine and that's what you need in your pool.

I'm probably sounding a little rude and don't mean to but you will be missing the point of good pool maintenance if your first chase after a possible but not likely source of your algae when the obvious answer is that you have low chlorine levels in your pool giving algae a chance to get started.

If your source water was the sewer and you had adequate chlorine levels in the pool, the water would be pristine. (Yikes! but it sure take a lot of chlorine for a while :lol: )

Secondly, Testing with test strips simply doesn't fit into the BBB principles. As a general rule, test strips are simply not accurate enough nor dependable enough to maintain your pool in an informed matter.

Without doubt, one of the biggest issues we see each year are pools badly out of balance because of the use of test strips. You can search "test strips" on this forum and get a general idea that they simply are inadequate to properly care for your pool.

Coincidentally, this forum generally feels the same way about the digital meters you have inquired about.......the affordable ones simply cannot do the job.

If you want to maintain your pools inexpensively and in a sanitary manner, you will need to purchase good, high-quality drops based test kit. Just so you know, I have a dog in the fight in that I sell just such a kit but others will be along soon and, I believe, will give you an identical opinion.
 
duraleigh said:
If you want to maintain your pools inexpensively and in a sanitary manner, you will need to purchase good, high-quality drops based test kit. Just so you know, I have a dog in the fight in that I sell just such a kit but others will be along soon and, I believe, will give you an identical opinion.

You can't go wrong with putting $$ on his "dog". :mrgreen:

Buy a TF-100 test kit and test your pool water and you'll be amazed with the accuracy through and through! I've been using mine for over two years and refilling them when needed and I would be lost without it! I love it and wouldn't buy anything else! :cool:
 
I'll jump back in here too. Dave can ship everywhere but Canada and his prices are the best and his kit can't be beat by anyone. You really need one. You'll be way ahead of the game to go ahead and get a good test kit.

I encourage you to test both the pool and the fill water. You may find that the fill water isn't as bad as you think. You also may find that it's worse. But at least you'll know.

Once you get good numbers we can help you get a handle on your issues. Without numbers we're really stabbing in the dark.
 
Hi all, thanks for your replies.

I am thinking in ordering one of the test kits. I think I will go for the TF-100. Do you know if there are any dicounts if I buy more than 1 kit? (wouldn't buy more than 4 for now, would it help to become a TPF supporter too?). Anyways I think this I should discuss privately with Dave?

Unfortunately where I live is difficult to find some reliable brands.

I finally found one of the test kits from one pool:

- Pentair Pool Products (www.pentairpool.com - but can't access their webpage) with Rainbow chemical bottles just to check Chlorine and pH. (1 bottle red for pH and 1 yellow for Chlorine/Bromine). This kit was brought from Canada I believe
and it only have a few drops left on each bottle.

Here is their catalog, page 7 to 9 has the test kits. Anyone know about this?
http://www.pentairpool.com/es/pdfs/rainbowB.pdf

In this salt water pool using this kit got:

pH: 8.2
Chlorine: 1.5

Found also a bottle of muriatic acid. Should we apply 5 caps of this where the jacuzzi water flows down to the pool to balance the pH?

Haven't been able to test the other pool with little algae... No test kit available there! I guess I'll wait to get the first kit I will order?

I will try to post back soon!
 

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"I am thinking in ordering one of the test kits. I think I will go for the TF-100.
Right move
Do you know if there are any dicounts if I buy more than 1 kit?
Perhaps, ask Dave

would it help to become a TPF supporter too?).
Yes, & you get discount
 
HardTrance9 said:
Here is their catalog, page 7 to 9 has the test kits. Anyone know about this?
http://www.pentairpool.com/es/pdfs/rainbowB.pdf

Both the TF-100 and Taylor K-2006 are superior to any of the kits I read about in this document. One reason: Unless I missed something, none of the Pentair kits employ a FAS-DPD chlorine test.

In this salt water pool using this kit got:

pH: 8.2
Chlorine: 1.5

Found also a bottle of muriatic acid. Should we apply 5 caps of this where the jacuzzi water flows down to the pool to balance the pH?

They're a start but these test results (by themselves) don't really give you enough information to begin treating the water. Yes, the chlorine is probably too low. And yes, the pH is too high. You want to add the right amount of muriatic acid to this pool, right? How many gallons or litres of water are in the pool? Is the Muratic Acid (MA) you have available 31.45% -- or some other strength? What is your target pH? Once you know, enter these figures into the Pool Calculator and it can tell you how much MA to add.

You'll do much better with the right test kit. :-D
 
polyvue said:
Both the TF-100 and Taylor K-2006 are superior to any of the kits I read about in this document. One reason: Unless I missed something, none of the Pentair kits employ a FAS-DPD chlorine test.

You are right. None has the FAS + I can't tell if they are still on the market.

They're a start but these test results (by themselves) don't really give you enough information to begin treating the water. Yes, the chlorine is probably too low. And yes, the pH is too high. You want to add the right amount of muriatic acid to this pool, right? How many gallons or litres of water are in the pool? Is the Muratic Acid (MA) you have available 31.45% -- or some other strength? What is your target pH? Once you know, enter these figures into the Pool Calculator and it can tell you how much MA to add.

You'll do much better with the right test kit. :-D

I will figure out the gallons or litres, there are no manuals left from the pool but I already saw some pages that help .. we have a tropical storm (called Patricia) right now and it has been raining since yesterday a little, comes and goes, comes and goes.

Will also look at the MA % strenght.

Target pH? Oops, one questions here: I guess then you always have to set a pH target for every pool? Somewhere I read you have to do this according to some manufacturers data? But what if there are no manuals, data? How do you set up or determine what your target is, for pH in this case?

Sorry for all this newbie questions... I tried to search the forum anything related to pH target but was not lucky.

Hopefully I will be able to test correctly (with the right kit) the pools and let you know more info. soon... Many thanks as always!
 
Hardtrance,

Check your PM's in the upper left corner of the page...it'll say "1 new message"

Determining an acceptable pH for your pools is not a problem. All pools should generally keep the pH in the 7's with 7.4 - 7.6 being just about perfect.

All these parameters are easy to figure out once you get a grasp on them. Try "ABC's of pool water chemistry" up in Pool School. :lol:
 
duraleigh said:
Hardtrance,

Check your PM's in the upper left corner of the page...it'll say "1 new message"

Determining an acceptable pH for your pools is not a problem. All pools should generally keep the pH in the 7's with 7.4 - 7.6 being just about perfect.

All these parameters are easy to figure out once you get a grasp on them. Try "ABC's of pool water chemistry" up in Pool School. :lol:

Ok I will check the PM.

Ok, thanks for the target pH (or other chem) doubts I had. It checks with what I thought (to have the pH leve within that range and keep an eye on it to see any deviation). I already have all the files of the Pool School. They are so useful.

Thanks!
 
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