Pool Owners Regret: SWG out; ISO chlorine...

[AZ_Amber]

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]First time poster, first time pool owner... [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]I recently bought a home in the phx metro area; and with it came a [/FONT][FONT=.SFUIText-BoldItalic]sparklingly refreshing [/FONT][FONT=&quot]pool that my family could use to combat the atrociously hot summer weather blues- SCORE![/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]:Insert Womp-Womp-Womp here: [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Turns out said pool has a [/FONT][FONT=&quot]completely[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]dead[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]SWG[/FONT][FONT=&quot]- just 6 short days after inheriting it.... lucky me. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]I know nothing about pool care. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]NOTHING[/FONT][FONT=&quot]. So, after a $80 visit from “[/FONT][FONT=&quot]the pool guy[/FONT][FONT=&quot]” (for the [/FONT][FONT=&quot]worst[/FONT][FONT=&quot] tutorial I’ve ever received) and a $160 trip to [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Leslie’s Pool Store for the naive[/FONT][FONT=&quot](Nothing like paying a 100% markup for what turned out to be baking soda...) I finally threw in the towel and made a call to my home warranty company; I am now waiting for a new Cell. Hopefully. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Thankfully, Dr. Google led me here— [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Help[/FONT][FONT=&quot]!? [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot]Until the cell arrives- how would one maintain (or obtain) a safe/clean/chlorinated pool??[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot]What I have done:[/FONT][FONT=&quot] Replaced a broken filter basket; (that was growing what looked like a rainforest in/on itself) -skimming regularly- checking levels (listed below) 2x daily- running the pump 10hrs/night & the robot vac runs 2-4hrs/day. [/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Probably semi-related to the state in which I found the basket- the backwash port (hole?!) is slowly [/FONT][FONT=.SFUIText-BoldItalic]dripping water.[/FONT][FONT=&quot] I’ll assume this [/FONT][FONT=&quot]isn’t[/FONT][FONT=&quot] good...[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Should I be dumping Clorox in the pool? [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Do I need to buy 100 more packs of magic powder at Leslie’s[/FONT][FONT=&quot]?[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Do I need to backwash?! HOW?![/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]TIA for ANY guidance!!
- Amber -[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]PH[/FONT][FONT=&quot]: 7.6[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]Alkalinity[/FONT][FONT=&quot]: 170[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]Chlorine[/FONT][FONT=&quot]: NONE. NADA. ZILCH. [/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]CYA[/FONT][FONT=&quot]: 55[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]Salt[/FONT][FONT=&quot]: 2900[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]Phosphates[/FONT][FONT=&quot]: 100 PPB[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]PS[/FONT][FONT=&quot]: if I’m butchering the technicalities/lingo/rules, I apologize. There’s a definite learning curve... :/ [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]

 

[#40Fan]

Get some bleach in there NOW!!!

 

[PoolGate]

This site is a champion of getting and using your own high quality test kit. See above for links I suggest the TF-100 kit. It will last over a season and will tell you what you need to do. You simply cannot trust Leslie's or any other pool store to give accurate test results. They are there to sell you useless chemicals to mask your pool's problems. You need chlorine asap. Get the cheapest, no additive bleach your grocery store sells for now. You'll need around a gallon a day until you get your test kit and know what you have and get your SWCG fixed. Meanwhile, fill out your sigline with equipment and such. You are in good hands here!

Once you get your test kit, do a full set of tests and post results here.

 

[kabutotx]

2 gals 10% liquid chlorine immediately. Try to keep FC above 5 after. 1 gallon = 5FC for your pool.
Order a TF-100 or Taylor K2006c test kit.
For Phoenix you need to raise CYA to 80 or 90 after you get test kit. I run 90 since I get full sun all day.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP. You only need to add liquid Chlorine/bleach to maintain your FC until you get your SWG running and muratic acid to lower your PH.

Once you have your test kit you need to retest your CYA. We like SWG pools to have a CYA of 60-70.

Follow this chart for the FC targets for your CYA - [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] If your CYA is 60 you need a FC of 7-9. You well find the test kit you have can't read FC that high or accurate. That's why you need to get a TF-100 Test Kits or a Taylor K-2006-C kit.

What type of SWG cell do you have?

Your salt may be a bit low and we don't care about phosphates.

As other have said, add bleach NOW and get your FC up. Use PoolMath to calculate quantities.

 

[AZ_Amber]

THANK YOU ALL!! I’ll get a legit kit right now—

And- Getting Bleach ASAP...clearly not soon enough though :/ Rx for 1 gal/day

•if I continue to circulate/filter as I have been will adding bleach make the pool temporarily swimmable- or is that a terrible idea?

•Cell is a Pentair intelichlor C40– salt recommendation is 2500-3600Ibelieve, but I have so many pool numbers rattling around in my head I could be completely off.

CYA is confusing me simply because the manual for the C40 recommends MUCH lower than everywhere else I’ve read. I guess that’s the least of my worries ATM.

Anyone have any thoughts on why there is water dripping from my backwash port— it’s by no means a fast leak, but with my pool luck so far, I’m worried the pools just gonna drain itself & save me all this trouble :lol:

- - - Updated - - -

 

[kabutotx]

2 gals 10% liquid chlorine immediately. Try to keep FC above 5 after. 1 gallon = 5FC for your pool.
Order a TF-100 or Taylor K2006c test kit.
For Phoenix you need to raise CYA to 80 or 90 after you get test kit. I run 90 since I get full sun all day.

 

[SpringPool]

Until you get your test kit you can use the CYA level from the pool store but it’s probably wrong.

Is the pool clear and can you see the bottom? If so as long as you keep chlorine levels below SLAM levels you can swim (see my signature for cya chart link).

Do you have a basic test kit to see what FC is? If not don’t do more than a gal of chlorine a day and you should be ok.

Check walmart for chlorinating liquid in the pool section it will be 10% chlorine. If you have to use bleach (regular, no splashless and no fragrances or other added ingredients). It will most likely be 6% Chlorine so use poolmath on the website (or download the app) to calculate the amount you’ll need

 

[ajw22]

•Cell is a Pentair intelichlor C40– [/FONT]salt recommendation is 2500-3600Ibelieve, but I have so many pool numbers rattling around in my head I could be completely off.

Look at the manual again and you will see it says 3600 ppm is optimum and up to 4500 is acceptable. Raise your salt to at least 3600 ppm and error on the high side.

CYA is confusing me simply because the manual for the C40 recommends MUCH lower than everywhere else I’ve read. I guess that’s the least of my worries ATM

.

Their recommendations are colored by government recommendations. You can run your CYA where the manual says or use more up to date recommendations from here.

Anyone have any thoughts on why there is water dripping from my backwash port— it’s by no means a fast leak, but with my pool luck so far, I’m worried the pools just gonna drain itself & save me all this trouble

:lol:

Need to tell us the specific type of valve you have or show us a pic of it. Probably the gasket in the valve needs replacement.

 

[ctrav]

Welcome to TFP Amber...

Magic powder

Where did you get those test numbers? Pool Store? Well thats your first clue...

Seriously, which test kit did you order? Its important!!
Test Kits Compared

Great suggestions given already and until you get a proper test kit I would only add bleach at this point unless a Moderator or TFP expert says different!
Recommended Pool Chemicals

Take the time now to educate yourself as this will for sure pay dividends...
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Recommended Levels

Chlorine / CYA Chart

Basic Pool Care Schedule

Best wishes and hang in there

 

[AZ_Amber]

Until you get your test kit you can use the CYA level from the pool store but it’s probably wrong.

Leslie’s had it at 55

Is the pool clear and can you see the bottom? If so as long as you keep chlorine levels below SLAM levels you can swim (see my signature for cya chart link).

Pool is actually pretty clear - not “green” from a pool-blind eye standpoint...

Do you have a basic test kit to see what FC is? If not don’t do more than a gal of chlorine a day and you should be ok.

I have a little kit from HD- I was registering @2 about 48hrs ago.

However, I recently dumped a 10# package of “Alkaline Up” (one time) & 2 “Chlor-Brite” packs (twice in 72hrs).

Was urged to do this again yesterday & finally thought to take to the www.

 

[zea3]

Does you filter have a multiport valve or a push/pull valve? A leaky valve usually means a bad gasket.

 

[mknauss]

Look at the manual again and you will see it says 3600 ppm is optimum and up to 4500 is acceptable. Raise your salt to at least 3600 ppm and error on the high side.

I am going to disagree a bit with Allen on that. In Arizona, we never get rain and we use lots of muriatic acid. We also have lots of evaporation and pretty high natural salt in the water. So I start on a fresh fill at ~3000 ppm salt and by the time I drain due to high CH in ~18 months my salt is near 3600 ppm.

The IC40 will run just fine with ~3000 ppm of salt in the water.

 

[AZ_Amber]

Note: Any previous test result #’s were provided via Leslie’s water test; their validity is obviously not guaranteed...

1) I managed to fix the leaky backwash- I (stupidly) assumed the pool company I had here would have locked it... they didn’t. My mistake for not checking :doh:

2) I ordered the TF-100 + Salt sticks + a stir stick.

3) I added 128oz of Kemtek Chlorinating Liquid- waited an hour & used the cheap HD kit I have to test what I could...

FC: 2+
Ph: 7.6
TA: 160

While the SWC cell isn’t functioning; the salt level light is green and I’m ok with “good enough” for now.

• Question • My (clearly limited) understanding is that in order to lower the alkalinity I have to first lower the Ph... is this something I need to immediately remedy or can it wait until I have a functional cell/system?

 

[Philo]

Why do you think the original salt cell was not working?

What % did you have the SWG on?

How long was your pump running the the SWG turned on?

Did you clean the cell with MA?

 

[AZ_Amber]

Why do you think the original salt cell was not working?

What % did you have the SWG on?

How long was your pump running the the SWG turned on?

Did you clean the cell with MA?

Cell was set to 100% and water tests came up zero chlorine day after day; cell light is continuously blinking; pump runs 10hrs a night, every night.

Cell had no visible buildup but used MA/water soak and got minimal foaming.

Coupled with knowing it was purchased/installed in 2014, and- considering the condition I found the filter\basket in (broken/full/filthy with what looked like it’s own vine system growing) I’ll guess none of the system was truly cared for; surely decreasing cell life... I connected the dots I guess.

 

[Philo]

^^^ Thanks

 

[SpringPool]

• Question • My (clearly limited) understanding is that in order to lower the alkalinity I have to first lower the Ph... is this something I need to immediately remedy or can it wait until I have a functional cell/system?

I would wait until the test kit you ordered comes in. Just keep adding liquid chlorine until you get the salt cell in and installed.

Word of caution on the salt test strips they are +/- 400ppm (In my case I had a canister that all were +/- 1000).

If you install the new cell and the light is green and after performing a check on it (use the swcg calculator in my signature). Test the FC after the sun goes down and run the pump and cell at 100% for a few hours and test FC again. If it goes up as calculated your good to go.

 

[Jwmote]

Leslie's bad.

 

[AZ_Amber]

Backstory: For the last 2 days I have been pouring 128oz of (10%) chlorinating liquid into the pool, running the filter 10+ hrs/day and using the mx8 2-4hrs/day.

Chlorinating liquid gets FC up to about 2-3 and by 5:00 the next day it’s at 0.5 or 0.

My question is this- after a new swg is installed do I need to shock, slam... whatever it is that raises chlorine levels to astronomical #s— to essentially “push” the pool/swg into full operation or do I just make sure levels stay good/normal.

Again, I don’t think the pool is green or growing any algae/funk... but I may be pool color blind.

TIA!

FC: 2
Ph: 7.8
Alk: 170
Salt: 3000
Cya: 65