Sap? On car!

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PoolGate

PoolGate

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Jun 7, 2017
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I parked under a tree and came out to what I thought was light rain while I was inside. Windshield wipers cleaned the windshield but it was not rain, it was some sort of sap that fell off the tree I was under. Very odd sap seems to have come out of the entire tree onto the car just like rain drops. What is the best way to clean this?
 
LOL I saw that on Seinfeld!

I got some bug and tar remover and it seems to work really well. I'll do a clean after the sun goes down I hate washing a black car in full sun.
 
I have had great results with CRC Brakleen (has to be CRC in the red can other brands just don't work as well if at all) I always suggest trying it in an inconspicuous spot like under the bumper just to be sure it is safe for your paint but have never had or heard of a bad result. I have also used it to remove stains from clothing, in our house it is the duct tape of cleaner/solvents.
 
I would not suggest using CRC but rather alcohol. Remember that this WILL strip any wax/sealant you may have on the car so you'll need to reapply. Clay bar is another suggestion but you more than likely won't need if you use alcohol. For very stubborn areas I also use Tarminator.

NEVER park underneath a tree as bird poop (acidic and will eat through clear coat if not addressed) and sap are two paint killers. What you gain from having a cooler temp car you'l lose in time from the wrecked paint.




Tarminator || Stoner Car Care

How to Remove Tree Sap From my Car? | Ask a Pro Blog
 
Yeah brake cleaner is a very bad idea on paint. You would have to wax it right away. If brake cleaner was used on my nice car I would wash with Dawn, wax it carinuba cleaning wax, clay bar, then top up with a syn wax to make sure the coverage is even
 
i detailed cars through college and learned alot from a large shop. it's zen time now with my trucks.

i don't use clay anymore. i'm on the nanomit bandwagon. grab one from autogeek.net way easier to use than clay. to make a really cheap lubricant for the nonmit or clay but their waterless car wash concentrate. u mix 2 capfulls to a gallon water and it acts as a lubricant on the cheap. i use this same mix everytime a wash my trucks before i dry cause i want a more lubricated surface when i full the water off the paint with my waffle towels. i also use this mix when i go to the beach and spray down my rims so the salt doesnt' mess them up.

anyway. . . for the sap. i would get wolfgang bug and tar remover. use that and then take a nanomit tot he surface with lubricant sprayed on top of that. it will not touch ur paint. u will have removed all the surface wax so after i mit my trucks they get polished and then sealed and waxed.


but bug and tar followed by lubricant and nanomit to remove. then it's up to you what you correct the paint with.

i would not use anything else. if ur car is sealed then sap or anything will come right off with just a regular soap and mit cleaning. sealers are great for 6 months if they are applied correctly.

everything i mention above is alkaline based so no acids and damage to the paint clearcoat. u want the light grit nanomit. i used clay for years but once someone showed me this i haven't used clay since.

i don't have a swirl, spiderweb, or mark on my trucks using the above stuff. i use no machines either, just my time. here are some links.

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine 128 oz.
Nanoskin Autoscrub Towel, clay towel
Wolfgang Bug Remover Spritz
 

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Hello OP,

FYI, I managed a detail business for 14yrs and machine buffed well over 12k cars alone in that period of time. I was well respected in the industry. In addition, I've been maintaining my own vehicles for over 35yrs now so I've seen a lot and have tried a lot as I still keep up with the industry.

Some of the advice you have been given is good but some is either poor or simply not necessary.


If the sap is fresh just wash the area with a microfiber towel using hot water and some car soap. The sap may clean right off. If it doesn't then trying cleaning it off with some rubbing alcohol and the microfiber towel. If that doesn't work then apply a dab of hand sanitizer on it and let it set for several minutes then remove (repeat if necessary). All the above will break down the sap and allow for easy/safe removal. If none of the above works then you can purchase and try any number of tar, bug, sap removers. Even gas or paint thinner is fine despite what folks may think or say. You spill gas on your vehicle at times when filling it up? Ever had your paint peel off from such or completely fade out, no! You just should apply wax or sealant after using any strong chemicals that's all.

I would not recommend using a clay bar nor even a fine grit clay mitt. There is nothing wrong with that but it's overkill. Clay bars and clay mitts (even fine) can lead to pain marring/dulling if you're not careful which is quite common even for pro's. It's easily corrected with polish or cleaner wax.

I would NEVER recommend using a rinse-less car wash as your primary wash method, period! Those products were manufactured for people who have no access to water (apartments) or where water is restricted, otherwise manufacturers hype it up as being "safer" for the environment. You never see them advertising it at the "safest" method to wash a vehicle or "safer" than a two bucket traditional hand wash. It's always safest to rinse your car first or even foam it prior to actually washing it; because that removes or loosens a lot of dirt/dust before you even put a mitt on it. People may not see swirl marks now but they will assuredly appear with such products. A swirl light will quickly reveal it. Irrespective, it is not a safer "alternative" to traditional hand washing using quality car soaps, mitts, microfiber towels. Never use a rinse-less car wash unless you have absolutely no alternative.


God Bless,
Ralph
​
 
If the sap is fresh just wash the area with a microfiber towel using hot water and some car soap. The sap may clean right off. If it doesn't then trying cleaning it off with some rubbing alcohol and the microfiber towel. If that doesn't work then apply a dab of hand sanitizer on it and let it set for several minutes then remove (repeat if necessary). All the above will break down the sap and allow for easy/safe removal. If none of the above works then you can purchase and try any number of tar, bug, sap removers. Even gas or paint thinner is fine despite what folks may think or say. You spill gas on your vehicle at times when filling it up? Ever had your paint peel off from such or completely fade out, no! You just should apply wax or sealant after using any strong chemicals as the later mentioned.
Click to expand...

Excellent post! I have used Poor Boys World Bug Squash as sometimes my car is sitting under trees with sap in the driveway. Works great, but I ordered on http://www.autogeek.net. This actually removed sap that was sitting for days, without any harsh side effects.

Poorboy's World Bug Squash 32 oz. Refill
 
Ralph III said:
Hello OP,

FYI, I managed a detail business for 14yrs and machine buffed well over 12k cars alone in that period of time. I was well respected in the industry. In addition, I've been maintaining my own vehicles for over 35yrs now so I've seen a lot and have tried a lot as I still keep up with the industry.

Some of the advice you have been given is good but some is either poor or simply not necessary.


If the sap is fresh just wash the area with a microfiber towel using hot water and some car soap. The sap may clean right off. If it doesn't then trying cleaning it off with some rubbing alcohol and the microfiber towel. If that doesn't work then apply a dab of hand sanitizer on it and let it set for several minutes then remove (repeat if necessary). All the above will break down the sap and allow for easy/safe removal. If none of the above works then you can purchase and try any number of tar, bug, sap removers. Even gas or paint thinner is fine despite what folks may think or say. You spill gas on your vehicle at times when filling it up? Ever had your paint peel off from such or completely fade out, no! You just should apply wax or sealant after using any strong chemicals that's all.

I would not recommend using a clay bar nor even a fine grit clay mitt. There is nothing wrong with that but it's overkill. Clay bars and clay mitts (even fine) can lead to pain marring/dulling if you're not careful which is quite common even for pro's. It's easily corrected with polish or cleaner wax.

I would NEVER recommend using a rinse-less car wash, period! Those products were manufactured for people who have no access to water (apartments) or where water is restricted, otherwise manufacturers hype it up as being "safer" for the environment. It's always safest to rinse your car first or even foam it prior to actually washing it; because that removes or lossens a lot of dirt/dust before you even put a mitt on it. People may not see swirl marks now but they will assuredly appear with such products. A swirl light will quickly reveal it. Irrespective, it is not a safer "alternative" to traditional hand washing using quality car soaps, mitts, microfiber towels. Never use a rinse-less car wash unless you have absolutely no alternative.


God Bless,
Ralph
​
Click to expand...

I use rinseless car wash as a lube for when I dry. I spray down the wet car while I dry to give me more slide. I also use it as a lube when I mit or clay. It’s cheaper and works just as well I feel. The rinseless is also good for atcthe beach after I rinse and I want to dry my rims so they don’t get marked with the salt water. I also am a big supported of power washing down to get dirt loose first. My trucks get rinsed as soon as they get in garage after rain or especially snow to keep any build up off.

Good post.
 
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