Spa draining into pool (I think)
- Thread starter emdoller
- Start date
Well that was a short lived fix. So here’s the latest. The spa has been holding water all week. Today, we heated up the spa (first time since I replaced the diverter) and it’s no leaking out again.
So either the actuator isn’t closing the diverter after spa mode or the diverter is bad.
Any ideas?
Ed
So either the actuator isn’t closing the diverter after spa mode or the diverter is bad.
Any ideas?
Ed
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,243
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The Jandy actuator has internal cams for the micro switches that set where they stop in each position. Make sure they are properly set to fully close the diverter.
I had an extra actuator and decided to use it instead. Boy did the instructions on how to set up the cams stink.
I just wired it in and played with the cams till it did what I wanted.
Let’s see what this does.
Ed
I just wired it in and played with the cams till it did what I wanted.
Let’s see what this does.
Ed
So "Spa Heat Mode" re-started the problem? I would look at what position the actuators are in when you shut down for the night after Spa Heat was enabled. Are the actuators moving back to the "No Spa-Heat" mode? Or did they stay in Spa Heat mode, and you just shut off the pump? In the latter case, that sounds like a check valve issue. Did we identify a check valve on your line 4? (looking through your pictures again right now.)
Yes, turning to spa/heat mode moved the valve so that water would return to the spa not the pool. When I shut it off, the actuator appeared to turn it back to where it was (eg shut off spa return).
Regarding a check valve, if the diverter is leaking, which it appears to be doing, there’s no check valve between that diverter and the pipes that return to the pool. The fact that it was holding water until I put it in spa/heat mode says it does seal.
I’m going to pull it all apart to make sure the diverter is sitting right and play with the cam settings as maybe I need to turn it a bit more than where I set the new actuator. Both are easy things to do.
If I can’t get it, I’ll need to call a pool service.
Ed
Regarding a check valve, if the diverter is leaking, which it appears to be doing, there’s no check valve between that diverter and the pipes that return to the pool. The fact that it was holding water until I put it in spa/heat mode says it does seal.
I’m going to pull it all apart to make sure the diverter is sitting right and play with the cam settings as maybe I need to turn it a bit more than where I set the new actuator. Both are easy things to do.
If I can’t get it, I’ll need to call a pool service.
Ed
I’m assuming the check valve at the top has nothing to do with this. Is that a correct assumption? Meaning, I assume that if the diverter is leaking, water will flow up from the spa and flow through the return to the pool a few pipes down. If the check valve is working on the top pipe, will that shut off water flow from the spa even if the diverter is leaking?
Ed
Ed
I decided to pull off the check valve on the heater return line to inspect it even though I’m not sure if it were bad that it would contribute to my issue.
Take a look... it’s destroyed. No idea why it looks like this. I just ordered a new one.
Ed
Take a look... it’s destroyed. No idea why it looks like this. I just ordered a new one.
Ed
That is nasty. I assume it's related to the proximity to the SWCG, but I'm no expert on that. I hope that check valve is the problem, but I have to admit I wouldn't understand why because I have questions about your plumbing routes.
If that check valve replacement doesn't turn out to be the issue, I think we need to break down your plumbing into more detail. I know I'd like to see what the view is from the heater vantage point. For example, I can't see the output side of the SWCG. Does it just U around behind that control box to your return arrows? No need to answer this if the check valve replacement fixes the issue.
If that check valve replacement doesn't turn out to be the issue, I think we need to break down your plumbing into more detail. I know I'd like to see what the view is from the heater vantage point. For example, I can't see the output side of the SWCG. Does it just U around behind that control box to your return arrows? No need to answer this if the check valve replacement fixes the issue.
I replaced the check valve and it did not help. I didn’t think it would. Not sure I’ll have time today, but I’m going to pull apart the diverter / actuator to make sure it’s sitting right. I’ll also send new pictures to help clear up any plumbing questions.
Ed
Here are better pics of the heater side. I still believe there’s something going on with the diverter / actuator but could be wrong. Not sure what it would be because I replaced both. I hope to pull it apart in the next day.
Ed
Thanks for the new picture view. It doesn't spark any new ideas for me, sorry.
Hopefully the more experienced guys on here will chime in.
Hopefully the more experienced guys on here will chime in.
I took the valve apart after going to the pool store to buy a different diverter (last ditch effort). The one in the valve was purchased on line and was stated to be compatible with the jandy 4720 and came in a clear bag with no brand. The one from the pool store was also stated to be compatible with the 4720 and was made by CMP. I should have taken a picture because the CMP was slightly larger. After examine the one I’ve been using, I believe it wasn’t big enough. I put the CMP diverter in and it was snug unlike the other one. I will run it and see what happens.
Ed
Ed
Meadow
0
Ed,
Can't resist budging in, but by now I presumed you already know how the diverter works and have a good understanding of how the water circulates within your plumbing. I think those actuators are adding confusions and suspicions to the on-going troubleshooting.
If I am in your shoes, I will temporarily remove all the actuators, re-attach the handle and manually control each valve while simulating each mode available for your existing setup. Analyze the water flow path starting from the suction side and establish a better understanding of how those actuators should work and in which direction the word "OFF" in the handle should be facing with respect to each mode.
I know it takes a lot of patience observing the spa draining issue but I'm pretty sure you will uncover the problem in no time. At the end of the day, feel free to put back those actuators in service and make sure they all work as expected based on your own observation.
Can't resist budging in, but by now I presumed you already know how the diverter works and have a good understanding of how the water circulates within your plumbing. I think those actuators are adding confusions and suspicions to the on-going troubleshooting.
If I am in your shoes, I will temporarily remove all the actuators, re-attach the handle and manually control each valve while simulating each mode available for your existing setup. Analyze the water flow path starting from the suction side and establish a better understanding of how those actuators should work and in which direction the word "OFF" in the handle should be facing with respect to each mode.
I know it takes a lot of patience observing the spa draining issue but I'm pretty sure you will uncover the problem in no time. At the end of the day, feel free to put back those actuators in service and make sure they all work as expected based on your own observation.
It’s been fine today after putting the other diverter in. Hope this solves it. Will report back in a few days after I cycle it a few times.
Ed
Ed
Case closed. Moral of the story is check after market diverters for size before installing despite it having the same manufacturers part number.
Ed
Ed
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