Chlorine reads zero after over night

scartypool

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Jun 25, 2018
16
Plumstead, PA
First off, thanks in advance to the advice I have already read and the free pool school book.

I have started noticing after I shock that my FC within hours no longer registers on my test strips or with the regent kit (Not the TF-100 you all mention). My other levels read fine. So I was getting perplexed. Water is crystal clear.

So last night after shocking with Leslies shock, the reading was 5PPM FC. This morning 0 FC.

So I took in my water to get tested, I know they are not the best but I did not find this forum until after what they told me.

Which is the dreaded you have nitrates, you must drain your pool. Said the reason I am not reading chlorine is that nitrates mask a chlorine reading. Okay.

So here is the test numbers I go from them:

FC 0
Total Chlorine 0
Calcium harness 150
CYA 70
Alkalinity 80
PH 7.4
phosphates 1000

They said I should tackle the phosphates if I decide not to drain the pool and maintain my pool water regime.

So, I am struggling what do here. If I supposedly cannot read my FC levels how do I know I am keeping a proper balance? What do I need to do? Do need to tackle the phosphate issue?

Looking for guidance, I see alot of threads about nitrates and the initial consensus I get is nitrates are not an issue.

Thanks in advance.
 
No.

You need to look at the CYA/Chlorine chart for your proper chlorine levels and use only liquid chlorine for shocking.

Nitrates and phosphates are not an issue if you maintain proper chlorine.

What was in the "leslies shock"? The active ingredient?
 
The Leslies powder plus is Calcium Hypochlorite, I also use a floater with tabs 3" made with Tri-Chlor.

Where do I find the CYA/Chlorine chart? Also if I cannot read the chlorine level using my test kit or strips, how do I know I have the proper level? Looking for guidance on best test kit, I keep reading about the TF-100, but if nitrates mask chlorine readings a bit confused at this time.
 
Easy one first: [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

Second: Nitrates and Phosphates do not mask test results. When you see zero, it means zero. You have something eating your chlorine, and it's most likely algae. While it is true that phosphates and nitrates can feed algae, adequate chlorine kills algae, so it doesn't matter how high the phosphate and nitrates are if you maintain adequate FC.

The problem for you is that just maintaining enough FC/CYA isn't enough, now. You need to go beyond and kill the algae you have, faster than it can reproduce. It's not a big one-time dose of something, the way the pool store tells you to "shock." What will kill the algae for keeps is a process we call a SLAM Process The first prerequisite is a proper test kit. Don;t even waste your time or ours trying to do a SLAM without a FAS-DPD chlorine test. It's the only ione that can read FC levels as high as you need to go.
 
The Leslies powder plus is Calcium Hypochlorite, I also use a floater with tabs 3" made with Tri-Chlor.

Where do I find the CYA/Chlorine chart? Also if I cannot read the chlorine level using my test kit or strips, how do I know I have the proper level? Looking for guidance on best test kit, I keep reading about the TF-100, but if nitrates mask chlorine readings a bit confused at this time.

You need to order the TF-100 (get the XL version) or the Taylor K2006c. Nitrates are not your issue, you simply don't have enough chlorine and you cannot test high enough without one of these test kits.

Use only liquid chlorine going forward, your calcium level is fine where it is (unless you have a brand new heater) and you don't need to add more.

The CYA/Chlorine chart link is in my signature :)
 
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