New Pool

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fernandoj

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Sep 10, 2009
15
I been reading all the information on this forum.
And I have a question, My pool was finish last Friday, is a Plaster pool , around 10000 galons.
The PB add some acid the first day. THen he told me test the water every day, brush the plaster.
I been doing this ever day, I take the water sample to a pool store, and every day the results are different, Saturday was no chlorine present, but the PH was at 8. I add more acid.
Sunday the PH was 7.4.

Monday the PB add CHlorine, PH was 7.4

Tuesday the Chlorine was 5 adn PH 8, I add 2 cups of acid.
Tuesday test
FAC 5
PH 8
TA 110
CH 90
CYA 150
Phospates 200

TOday i check the PH and was 8, adn the chlorine 0, so I add first 2 cups of acid, and 30 minutes later Chlorine 1 small jug.
TODAY test
FAC 0
TAC 0
PH 8
TA 100
CH 110
CYA 60
Phosphates 100


The pool runs for 8 hrs.

My PB don't give me to much info,so I just want to make sure I am doing the right thing. I am not expert and I am try to keep the pool by my own.

The chlorine Level can change so quick from 5 to 0?
The PH?

Any recommendation I will appreciated.
 
Welcome to TFP.

Yes, the chlorine can change that quickly. It will need to be added daily at least.

New plaster pools constantly need acid added to maintain normal pH. This is important for the integrity of your pool surface.

Your CYA couldn't have gone from 150 to 60 unless you drained most of the water out of the pool and replaced it. Something is wrong with the testing process.
 
Congrats on the new pool! You will love it.

You need a service type test kit for your pool. One that will test for more things than the Leslie's Deluxe kit will test for. The kit should have the ability to test for chlorine (FC and CC) and one that uses the FAS-DPD method, pH, TA, CYA, CH, and, if you are running a SWG, you will need salt strips. Taylor makes the K-2006 which is good. But the best kit hands down, is the TF-100. See the link in my signature line. You'll get it quickly after ordering it.

Good luck. Keep on top of the chlorine and the pH and brush those pool walls daily at least. :goodjob:
 
I'm guessing there is no CYA in the water at all, which would explain why the FC dropped so rapidly.

Definetly invest in your own FAS-DPD test kit, either the TF100 or the Taylor K-2006.

We can walk you thru the testing. IT's the best way to protect your investment. :wink:
 
Ok, here are the results
PH 8.2
FC 5
TA 200
Ch 400

I think the TA is a little high because the pool builder add last friday some alkaline.

According to the pool calculator, I just add 2 Cups of Muratic acid, to bring the PH down around 7.6.

Should be ok, rigth.
And then run the water test in 2 days?
 
You don't need to wait 2 days to rerun the tests; assuming you add the muriatic acid slowly in front of a return jet with the pump on, the way we recommend, then an hour would be enough time to see what effect it had.

Have you done the CYA test? The pool store results vary widely, it would be nice to know what your test shows.
--paulr
 

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Thanks Paul, I didn't understand how to do the cya test.
I add the muriatic acid, according to the PB, I should spray in all the pool, special on the deeper Area.
I will run the test tomorrow morning, I have the impression I will have to add more muriatic acid, in the past, the PH varies every day.
 
fernandoj said:
Thanks Paul, I didn't understand how to do the cya test.
I add the muriatic acid, according to the PB, I should spray in all the pool, special on the deeper Area.
Click to expand...
Don't spray it around the pool... pour the Muriatic Acid (carefully and away from the side of the pool) in the deep end. You should have the pump/filter running while you are applying MA and it's best to pour it in front of a pool return.

There's some information about conducting a CYA test here: Taylor CYA Test But, your right, it's not easy... especially if you're doing it for the first time.
 
Got it.
CYA is between 80 and 90.

I did a clorine and PH test and still the same
FC 5
Ph 8.2

So tomorrow morning with the pump running I will add more muratic acid to lower it, around 7.6.

Question, 8.2 ph is high?
can damage the plaster?
 
fernandoj said:
Question, 8.2 ph is high?
can damage the plaster?
Click to expand...
Well, it's high enough. My understanding is that you don't want to leave it (at 8.2) for very long -- it could impact chlorine effectiveness (sanitation) and there could be long term consequences that, depending on the amount of calcium and level of alkalinity present, could skew your water balance and result in calcium scaling. For more than you may care to know on the subject see this Wikipedia article on Calcium Carbonate.

Bottom line, adjust your water to the recommended level of ~ 7.5 - 7.8 pH
 
That only tests total chlorine up to 5. It is useful for daily quick checks to see if chlorine is present, but it doesn't distinguish between the good (FC ) and the bad (CC.)

You need to use the FAS-DPD test to pinpoint exactly what's going on with chlorine levels. Performing an overnight loss test with the FAS-DPD test will tell you if you have organics going on.

Give the FAS-DPD test a try.
 
Ok, just did it tonigth.
follow the instructions the first one change color after 12 drops x 0.5= 6 as FC?
then I add the 5 drops of R 0003, turns pink again, and add the r 0871, turns colorless after 15 drops x 0.5= 7.5 CC.

The process is correct?
what about the results.
 

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