New Pool

fernandoj said:
follow the instructions the first one change color after 12 drops x 0.5= 6 as FC?
then I add the 5 drops of R 0003, turns pink again, and add the r 0871, turns colorless after 15 drops x 0.5= 7.5 CC
The process seems right... but the results are problematic.
Are you sure you used a 10 mL sample? That's one of the lowest lines on the sample tube.

If correct, that would mean a Total Chlorine level of about 13.5 -- in addition to lowering your pH to 7.4 - 7.7, you're going to need a lot of bleach (liquid chlorine) to oxidize your Combined Chlorine (CC). Not sure if shocking is appropriate for brand new plaster pools, so I defer to those wiser on this forum to provide that answer.
 
fernandoj said:
follow the instructions the first one change color after 12 drops x 0.5= 6 as FC?
then I add the 5 drops of R 0003, turns pink again, and add the r 0871, turns colorless after 15 drops x 0.5= 7.5 CC
Does "after 15 drops" mean after 15 more drops, or after 3 more for 15 total?
--paulr
 
After you answer Paul's question....

Before you do anything else, confirm with the builder if he added any other products. There have been new plaster posts where the CC was high because of some chem the builder added that registered as CCs on the test. It may be nothing.
 
fernandoj said:
TF no, I thougth was the 25 ml sample.
I run it again, with the following results:

9 x 0.5= 4.5 FC

then I add it the R-0003 and remains coreless, so that mean CC= 0.
Ph is 7.5
Whew! That's better. :-D

Fernando, with CYA at 80-90 ppm you'll want keep Free Chlorine at or above 4.5 at all times. When/if your CYA comes down a bit, you can lower the minimum chlorine.

Congrats on your new pool!
 
fernandoj said:
Thanks TF
How can I lower the FC?

Why would you want to? :shock:

Do you understand the CYA/Chlorine relationship? You need to maintain the "target" FC level according to the Chart in my sig... and remain above the "min" level of FC at all times, or you will get algae.

fernandoj said:
By the way, I am moving to salt system, in 3 more week, I think so.?
After 30 days?

Is more easy maintaining a Salt system then chlorine system?

Yes, 30 days.
Yes, it is more convenient because the SWG unit produces chlorine so that you don't have to add it manually in the form of bleach, etc.

PH does cause a problem - the SWG causes the PH to rise so in addition to your rising PH from your plaster curing, the SWG will cause it to rise as well. You will need to test PH daily, add acid as necessary, test your TA weekly and add baking soda to keep the TA at around 60-70 (no higher or the PH will rise quickly). The reason you need to monitor your TA too is the acid will lower the TA in addition to lowering the PH.

With your CYA at its current level that shouldn't be a problem for your SWG - we recommend 80 anyway so you are pretty close to that. :goodjob:
 
fernandoj said:
How can I lower the FC?
As frustratedpoolmom said... why do that? Once you get the SWG you may have to turn it down a little so it doesn't make as much chlorine, but for right now, you'll probably have to ADD chlorine (bleach) to keep it above 4-5 ppm. OK?

I think you're really going to like the Salt Water Generator. Sure, it makes your pool thirsty for Muriatic Acid (because the pH is always going up), but overall, it's a great convenience and you don't have to be forever running to the store for bleach.
 
Thanks all.
I call my plaster company today, I notice on a beach entrance a mark, some kind like a coin mark, and dont go away, if i brush it.
looks like is oxid mark. any idea....i hear may be is a oxid cable below the plaster, and sometimes produce marks on the plaster.
any way, he will stop by to me house sunday.
keep you post
 

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