Please help me to clear up my pool!

[SwampLord]

So I moved into my house last summer about 11 months ago, and at the time the pool was clearish with debris on the ground. I didn't use it, and it was winterized and left without a cover since last Oct. Now when I first started adding chemicals to my pool it was swamp green, 1000s of tadpoles, frogs, ducks, the whole 9 yards. I've since added 3-4 1 .lb bags of shock at night time only to find by the next evening my chlorine was gone. My pool gets a lot of sun. I went to a pool store, bought a bunch of $$$ worth of chemicals and added a 5-gal liquid chlorine jug as well as an entire bottle of algaecide to my pool. It turned pretty blue by the next day but was very cloudy. I let the pump run 24/7 pretty much since I started. The pool eventually just goes green again. I try to blind vacuum and my vacuum keeps getting clogged up with dead leaves. I scrub it and use a skimmer net to clean the top out. I've done a lot of research online and switched to the BBB method. I also bought myself a test kit. I'm wondering if perhaps my sand filter isn't working properly. It starts around 14-15 PSI and gets up to around 20 in which case I backwash it back down to 15. I do this once a day. I've been seeing online that it's better to let the pressure buildup so that finer algae particles are caught in the filter. When I saw that my CYA level was 28 I added just a small amount of conditioner to get it up over 30. I just added 242 oz of the 6% bleach earlier, ran a test 6 hrs later to see my FC was only pushed up from .5 to 2 after being 5.5 yesterday. I'm about to add another 121 oz. I also just added some D.E. to my sand filter through the skimmer mixed with water and water clarifier. If this doesn't do the job, I really have no idea what to do. If you can help me I would greatly appreciate any advice! Here are the details:

16x32 Oval Above Ground
Approx 12,000 gals
Hayward Sand Filter (24 in??)
Hayward 1.5 HP Pump

Test Readings:

Sand Filter normal PSI - 15, gets up to 20

FC - 2.0
PH - 7.4
ALK - 130
CYA - 28

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome! A few points to clear-up which may help:
- Which test kit did you get? It should be a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C.
- To clear algae you need to perform a SLAM Process. A pool in your condition could take a while, so be patient and committed, but you need the right test kit.
- No need for DE yet. Too early. Filters will clog-up quickly when catching algae. That's what they do so be prepared to backwash when psi increases by 25%.
- If your CYA actually is close to 30, your SLAM FC level should be "12" as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. One of those test kits noted above will confirm that for you.

The SLAM page link is really key, along with the right test kit to measure the elevated FC level. Stay away from any other miracle products, it's all about the right chlorine (bleach) level. Let us know if you still have questions.

 

[SwampLord]

Wow nice quick response. Thanks for taking the time to help me.

Yeah I'm learning quick that pool stores seem to have their own agendas. One tells me to balance my water before shocking, the other tells me to shock before balancing. One tells me to check my phosphate levels, and the other forgets to even mention CYA when shocking. So that's why I took to the streets and signed up on here.

The test-kit I used is a BioGuard 1200V kit I got at the local store for $30. I actually just purchased the Taylor K-2006 and am waiting on it to arrive. The BioGuard kit seems good but doesn't do CYA and when I went to the pool store with a water sample, the numbers came out the same except the ALK and the CYA read 28. For mine (I tested twice 2 days apart), my ALK came out to 130 PPM. Their test came out to 55. So I'm going to trust my own kit and believe it's not low, lol.

So do you suggest backwashing the filter every day or letting the pressure buildup a bit to collect fine particles? Should I even bother with trying to vacuum when I cannot see the bottom of the pool? I can't even see an inch into the water really, I'd say it is more opaque than cloudy. Is it important that I keep my FC at SLAM level (12-14) until it clears? That's like, 6 bottles of bleach a night. With 2 weeks to go until the 4th of July, I am tempted to drain the whole thing out and start over (give me an excuse to replace my liner anyways). What are your thoughts on how long this may take given my specs? Is there any test I can run on my Sand Filter to make sure it's properly filtrating?

 

[Texas Splash]

The Taylor K-2006 will be a big help, especially to confirm the CYA which drives the required FC level. Once you confirm that CYA, it is important to maintain it for the SLAM until you pass all 3 criteria. In the beginning of a SLAM, chlorine is depleted quickly, so testing and re-adding bleach is more frequent until the chlorine begins to hold. Then things slow down and space out further. When your filter is clean, we call that a baseline point. When it increases by 25%, that's when it's time to backwash. That too will happen more in the early stages of the SLAM. As for the filter condition, you might have to open it up and check the sand or even do a deep clean at some point. We don't' normally recommend totally draining a pool unless you are going to replace the liner. So it's your call. You could exchange a large amount of water (50-70%) which should help the process along and give you better visibility to the bottom to see what other creatures may be lurking. But a SLAM will still be required for the residual water, plumbing, and filter. But it could help it go faster. So that is a consideration for sure.

 

[SwampLord]

The Taylor K-2006 will be a big help, especially to confirm the CYA which drives the required FC level. Once you confirm that CYA, it is important to maintain it for the SLAM until you pass all 3 criteria. In the beginning of a SLAM, chlorine is depleted quickly, so testing and re-adding bleach is more frequent until the chlorine begins to hold. Then things slow down and space out further. When your filter is clean, we call that a baseline point. When it increases by 25%, that's when it's time to backwash. That too will happen more in the early stages of the SLAM. As for the filter condition, you might have to open it up and check the sand or even do a deep clean at some point. We don't' normally recommend totally draining a pool unless you are going to replace the liner. So it's your call. You could exchange a large amount of water (50-70%) which should help the process along and give you better visibility to the bottom to see what other creatures may be lurking. But a SLAM will still be required for the residual water, plumbing, and filter. But it could help it go faster. So that is a consideration for sure.

I've been using poolcalculator.com for chemistry measurements. The bottle of bleach says 6% but underneath it says (5.75% available chlorine). Should I use 6% or 5.75% in the pool calculator bleach % field?

So I should be vacuuming the pool every day regardless I can't see the bottom? Is there another way to clean it? Do I also need to scrub the bottom? When I do that I see my pool turn back into the swamp in whence it came. For now I'm just waiting on the new test kit and keeping my FC at shock level.

 

[mknauss]

TFP does not support that calculator. We use PoolMath. Also have an app Pool Math

Use 6% for that bleach.

The more solid organic material you remove the faster a SLAM goes. That way the chlorine is not working on breaking down material that you could be pulling out of the pool.

 

[SwampLord]

Status:

So pretty much have to keep it this blue for a week or two? My BioGuard test only goes up to 5 for FC. Does the Taylor K-2006 go higher? I vacuumed today and not much in terms of green or chunks came up. Also brushed the bottom n sides. Only 12-13000 gal so shouldn’t take long for this process to complete?

 

[mknauss]

You will find it impossible to clear a pool without a FAS-DPD test for FC. That is the test in the K2006. Be aware that the small K2006 has limited amount of test reagents. The best value is the TF100 from TFTestkits.net

 

[SwampLord]

The reason we brush the bottom of the pool is to bring up the algae particles so the filter can catch them? Will a sand filter catch the algae particles that I brush up off the bottom of the floor? Everytime I brush the bottom the pool turns swamp green, but I just assume it's for the better. Will this give the chlorine a better chance of killing the algae?

 

[zea3]

Yes, brushing the pool puts the debris back into suspension so they can be filtered out. Scoop out any leaves on the bottom of the pool with a pool rake, then let the pool settle. When it is time to add bleach, you can vacuum to waste first, moving slowly so you don't disturb the deal algae too much. After vacuuming to waste, top off the water if needed, brush the pool and add the next dose of bleach.

 

[SwampLord]

Status:

Just received my Taylor K-2006 test kit. Wasted some DPD Powder being a noob of course.

FC - 1
CC - 1.5
PH - 7.2
ALK - 130 (it says to wait for red but as soon as it turned pinkish I stopped)
CH - 130
CYA - 30 (Came in between 30 n 40 but closer to 30 so I chose 30)

Being an above ground Vinyl pool, do I need to really worry about CH? Backwashed the sand filter 4-5 times yest (Pressure begins at 15 and rises to 18-19 after just 2-3 hours). I just spent nearly 2 hours vacuuming (didn't seem like much green was coming out) as well as raking the bottom (got a decent amount of leaves). I just brushed the heck out of the bottom and I'm getting ready to drop an atom's bomb worth of chlorine in it.

Sound good?

 

[Texas Splash]

You can ignore the CH. It's time to SLAM Process. Based on your CYA of 30, increase the FC to 12 and follow that SLAM link for more info. It will work.

 

[SwampLord]

Hey I know an OCLT should be performed at night and before sunrise the following day, but should I be running an FC test every 2 hours for the FC and anytime it is below Shock Level (12 for me) I add chlorine to raise it up until SLAM process is done? Or should I only be adding the chlorine at night? Or is that only once I am done the SLAM process and in the maintain phase?

 

[mknauss]

Test your FC and dose back to SLAM level as often as you can.

 

[Deb04]

Don’t bother doing an OCLT until you have CC at 0.5 or less and crystal clear water. Keep SLAMming until then.

 

[SwampLord]

Is it normal for my sand filter to need to be backwashed 3-4 times a day? I notice the pressure on my return is good each time I backwash, but then after 1-2 hours it seems a lot weaker. Does this mean I need new sand or just cause the filter is working overtime?

 

[sccm_sysadmin]

Is it normal for my sand filter to need to be backwashed 3-4 times a day? I notice the pressure on my return is good each time I backwash, but then after 1-2 hours it seems a lot weaker. Does this mean I need new sand or just cause the filter is working overtime?

That can be normal during a SLAM. Your filter is catching untold amounts of dead algae (and whatever else might have been growing in the pool) and quickly clogging up. Keep at it.

 

[SwampLord]

So a couple of questions. 1) If my FC shock target is 13 and I goto sleep when it's 13 and wakeup at 6.5, do I want to put it up to 19.5 while I sleep so that it stays at/above SLAM level? 2) The calculator has me add 71 oz of 6% bleach for 13,700 gals (est. given my pool) to raise from 10.5 to 13 FC. 2 hours later I check and it is 13.5. I adjust the numbers and see that if my pool was 11,400 gals then 71 oz of 6% bleach would raise it to 13.5 FC. So do I assume 11,400 gals is the more accurate reading of my pool volume and adjust my measurements using that number?

 

[mknauss]

You can go over shock level FC a couple points but not need to go as much as you say. You are still attacking organics as long as your FC stays above minimum, just not as fast.

I would be wary of using FC testing for pool size, especially if you are in a SLAM. The FC can change pretty rapidly depending on how many organics you have in the pool, sunlight, etc.

 

[SwampLord]

What kind've time frame does it take for CC to get knocked down? I've been testing at 1-1.5 for a few days now. I say in between because I'm using 10 ML instead of 25 which adjusts by 2 ppm and the water has been almost clear @ 2 drops but not quite, so 1.2-1.3 CC ppm seems more accurate. My pool does look better than before, mostly pretty blue due to constant shock level FC, but I can see maybe halfway down. It's still cloudy and I can now kind've make out a big dark shadow on the bottom. Even my PSI reading on my sand filter hasn't gone up much in 4 hours and the flow seems strong still, and when I brushed it today it still remained bluish rather than green/turqoise. These are all good signs I hope. I'll post up some progress pics tomorrow.