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LaurieSmith

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Jun 13, 2018
18
Levelland
I have Hayward Aqua Rite, and the reading on it and the reading from my pool store/test strips don't match. My system says salt is at 2100 sometimes. After a day or so, it drops to 1400 and the inspect cell light and check salt light are solid. I know this means nothing is generating. I can recalibrate and it stays okay for about 24 hours before the lights start flashing and eventually go solid again. I am battling some start up algae and really need to be producing as much chlorine as possible. Stips/store test show salt at 3400-3600. Why is the Aqua Rite off by so much. We have already cleaned the cell (took 3 acid washes), and I have recalibrated a couple of times. Help! My pool's chlorine level is barely existent.
 
Hi Laurie. First and foremost, I don't know anything about your system - but I do know that those test strips are inaccurate and unreliable. I'd invest in a good testing kit, like the TF-100 or the Taylor K2006, to observe your pool chemistry. I'm not an expert and I hope someone with more knowledge will chime in soon, but it's obvious you need to start by getting some chlorine in your pool... especially if you're on the brink of an algae infestation. Just remember that pH, alkalinity, CYA,... all affect chlorine efficacy. Check out Pool School and Pool Math to get an understanding on where your numbers should be... Good luck!
 
LaurieSmith said:
I have Hayward Aqua Rite, and the reading on it and the reading from my pool store/test strips don't match. My system says salt is at 2100 sometimes. After a day or so, it drops to 1400 and the inspect cell light and check salt light are solid. I know this means nothing is generating. I can recalibrate and it stays okay for about 24 hours before the lights start flashing and eventually go solid again. I am battling some start up algae and really need to be producing as much chlorine as possible. Stips/store test show salt at 3400-3600. Why is the Aqua Rite off by so much. We have already cleaned the cell (took 3 acid washes), and I have recalibrated a couple of times. Help! My pool's chlorine level is barely existent.
Click to expand...

If your pool’s FC is low, manually add some bleach to maintain it.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Most likely the cell is failing on one side of the polarity first. The side that is failing is reporting the low salinity and the polarity that is still working reports the higher salinity. The unit averages the salinity reading over the day and that is why it keeps dropping.

How old is the cell and did you take the cell to a pool store to have it checked out if it passes? Most pool stores have a cell tester for Hayward cells.

Turn the output to 100% and post the diagnostic readings for both polarities. After reading the first diagnostic readings, switch the SWG to the off position and then back on. After a few seconds you will hear a click and you can go through the diagnostics and write them down.
 
I have a Hayward super pump. Not sure if that's a variable speed pump or not. No. The aquarite is not on a timer. I just recalibrated again because the two lights were on solid again.

- - - Updated - - -

The cell is 4 years old. I just did the diagnostics again. When it hit 3600 I did the up down switch thing. Now it says my average over time is 3700 but the other fell all the way to -1200. I have not taken the cell to be tested yet because it's 30 minutes away and my husband is out of town. I dont trust myself to take it apart.
 
I had a faulty flow switch and since my Aquarite was not on a timer, since I had a variable speed pump and it had its own timer it would never turn off the Aquarite. This would cause the average salinity to be off and then it would not generate and cause an inspect cell and check salt fault. I would recalibrate and it would generate for awhile until it gave the fault again. I replace my flow switch and everything is working correctly. Before, I installed the flow I let my pump running 24/7 and I wouldn't get any faults.
 

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Okay y'all thanks for the advice. My salt cell failed two tests at the pool store, so I have one on order. What do you suggest in the meantime? Bleach every day, and then once the cell goes in, how long should it take to start seeing progress and maybe have a nice pool again? Should I keep in covered (solar cover) or just leave it uncovered. I am also low on stabilizer. Is that something I can remedy while I am waiting on the cell to get here? It should be here in 3-5 days. Thanks everyone. I appreciate your help.
 
We are still trying to open it from winter when it was uncovered the whole time. Now we haven't been generating chlorine for a while, so although we have killed algae once, it is starting to come back. It doesn't look horrible, just has a green tint to it, and it is cloudy.
 
Then SLAM Process now. You do not want to use the SWCG during it anyway. Load up on liquid chlorine and start now.

You do need a proper test kit. Do you have one? If not, order it now. TF100 or Taylor K2006C from TFTestkits.net
 
No. It does not include the FAS-DPD test for FC above 10 ppm

You can only order the proper test kit online.
 
Is there anyway to do this without one of those kits? I really need to get started, but it will take two days for a test kit to get here, and I really don't have the extra money to spend since I just bought a new turbo cell. Any advice on how to get started without a test kit?
 
We are hesitant to provide guidance without test results.
To properly do the SLAM you must be able to test FC and have a good value for CYA.

You are welcome to follow the process using any other means of testing you like.

Take care.
 
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