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Thread: Out of answers

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    Out of answers

    I have Hayward Aqua Rite, and the reading on it and the reading from my pool store/test strips don't match. My system says salt is at 2100 sometimes. After a day or so, it drops to 1400 and the inspect cell light and check salt light are solid. I know this means nothing is generating. I can recalibrate and it stays okay for about 24 hours before the lights start flashing and eventually go solid again. I am battling some start up algae and really need to be producing as much chlorine as possible. Stips/store test show salt at 3400-3600. Why is the Aqua Rite off by so much. We have already cleaned the cell (took 3 acid washes), and I have recalibrated a couple of times. Help! My pool's chlorine level is barely existent.
    18x36 in ground vinyl, two skimmers, two bottom drains, Hayward aqua rite salt system, filter - holds 350lbs of sand not sure what brand, heater, all equipment is inside our pool house, no equipment is exposed outdoors outdoors.

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    dice7074's Avatar
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    Re: Out of answers

    Hi Laurie. First and foremost, I don't know anything about your system - but I do know that those test strips are inaccurate and unreliable. I'd invest in a good testing kit, like the TF-100 or the Taylor K2006, to observe your pool chemistry. I'm not an expert and I hope someone with more knowledge will chime in soon, but it's obvious you need to start by getting some chlorine in your pool... especially if you're on the brink of an algae infestation. Just remember that pH, alkalinity, CYA,... all affect chlorine efficacy. Check out Pool School and Pool Math to get an understanding on where your numbers should be... Good luck!

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    aussieta's Avatar
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    Re: Out of answers

    the taylor salt test is k-1766
    SWG inground peanut shaped eco-bright concrete pool
    50,000 litres 13,000 gallons
    Lincoln Salt Chlorinator, 25 gram cell Sand Filter with glass media
    Taylor K2006-C test kit, Taylor K-1766 salt test, Dolphin M500 pool cleaner
    are you taking care of your pool or is the poolshop taking care of you

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    domct203's Avatar
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    Re: Out of answers

    Quote Originally Posted by LaurieSmith View Post
    I have Hayward Aqua Rite, and the reading on it and the reading from my pool store/test strips don't match. My system says salt is at 2100 sometimes. After a day or so, it drops to 1400 and the inspect cell light and check salt light are solid. I know this means nothing is generating. I can recalibrate and it stays okay for about 24 hours before the lights start flashing and eventually go solid again. I am battling some start up algae and really need to be producing as much chlorine as possible. Stips/store test show salt at 3400-3600. Why is the Aqua Rite off by so much. We have already cleaned the cell (took 3 acid washes), and I have recalibrated a couple of times. Help! My pool's chlorine level is barely existent.
    If your pool’s FC is low, manually add some bleach to maintain it.


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    MannyT's Avatar
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    Re: Out of answers

    Do you have a variable speed pump? Is your Aquarite connected to a timer?
    Built 2004 In-ground/12,636 gallons, Gunite Diamond Brite,Hayward Swimpure Plus SWG, Hayward SwimClear C200S, Pentair IntelliFlo VS pump, Taylor k-2006 & k1766 Salt test kit w/Speed Stir, Maytronics Active 30i (Poseidon) robotic pool cleaner, Fiberstars Lifetime Illuminator 6000 fiber optic light.

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    Re: Out of answers

    Welcome to TFP!

    Most likely the cell is failing on one side of the polarity first. The side that is failing is reporting the low salinity and the polarity that is still working reports the higher salinity. The unit averages the salinity reading over the day and that is why it keeps dropping.

    How old is the cell and did you take the cell to a pool store to have it checked out if it passes? Most pool stores have a cell tester for Hayward cells.

    Turn the output to 100% and post the diagnostic readings for both polarities. After reading the first diagnostic readings, switch the SWG to the off position and then back on. After a few seconds you will hear a click and you can go through the diagnostics and write them down.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

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    Re: Out of answers

    I have a Hayward super pump. Not sure if that's a variable speed pump or not. No. The aquarite is not on a timer. I just recalibrated again because the two lights were on solid again.

    - - - Updated - - -

    The cell is 4 years old. I just did the diagnostics again. When it hit 3600 I did the up down switch thing. Now it says my average over time is 3700 but the other fell all the way to -1200. I have not taken the cell to be tested yet because it's 30 minutes away and my husband is out of town. I dont trust myself to take it apart.
    18x36 in ground vinyl, two skimmers, two bottom drains, Hayward aqua rite salt system, filter - holds 350lbs of sand not sure what brand, heater, all equipment is inside our pool house, no equipment is exposed outdoors outdoors.

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    Re: Out of answers

    Here is my test I had done just now:

    FC: 0.2PPM
    TC: 0.6PP
    pH: 7.6
    Hardness: 220ppm
    Alkalinity: 131ppm
    Cyanuric acid: 38ppm
    Copper: 0.2ppm
    Iron: 0.2ppm
    Phosphate: 128ppm
    18x36 in ground vinyl, two skimmers, two bottom drains, Hayward aqua rite salt system, filter - holds 350lbs of sand not sure what brand, heater, all equipment is inside our pool house, no equipment is exposed outdoors outdoors.

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    Re: Out of answers

    Add a gallon of liquid chlorine ASAP. You will need to keep adding chlorine everyday until the SWG gets fixed.

    The cell is worn out and needs to be replaced.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

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    MannyT's Avatar
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    Re: Out of answers

    I had a faulty flow switch and since my Aquarite was not on a timer, since I had a variable speed pump and it had its own timer it would never turn off the Aquarite. This would cause the average salinity to be off and then it would not generate and cause an inspect cell and check salt fault. I would recalibrate and it would generate for awhile until it gave the fault again. I replace my flow switch and everything is working correctly. Before, I installed the flow I let my pump running 24/7 and I wouldn't get any faults.
    Built 2004 In-ground/12,636 gallons, Gunite Diamond Brite,Hayward Swimpure Plus SWG, Hayward SwimClear C200S, Pentair IntelliFlo VS pump, Taylor k-2006 & k1766 Salt test kit w/Speed Stir, Maytronics Active 30i (Poseidon) robotic pool cleaner, Fiberstars Lifetime Illuminator 6000 fiber optic light.

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    Re: Out of answers

    I also had this problem years ago and it was my flow switch. I unscrewed it and re-seated it and it worked after that.
    Play pool, paramecium shape, 11,000 gallons, in-ground gunite, cartridge filter, Hayward swimpure plus swg, Pentair Intelliflo VS pump with EasyTouchh and ScreenLogic, Intellibrite light. This is as of Fall 2017.

    A tinaja is a natural rock basin that holds water, like a pool.

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    Re: Out of answers

    Okay y'all thanks for the advice. My salt cell failed two tests at the pool store, so I have one on order. What do you suggest in the meantime? Bleach every day, and then once the cell goes in, how long should it take to start seeing progress and maybe have a nice pool again? Should I keep in covered (solar cover) or just leave it uncovered. I am also low on stabilizer. Is that something I can remedy while I am waiting on the cell to get here? It should be here in 3-5 days. Thanks everyone. I appreciate your help.
    18x36 in ground vinyl, two skimmers, two bottom drains, Hayward aqua rite salt system, filter - holds 350lbs of sand not sure what brand, heater, all equipment is inside our pool house, no equipment is exposed outdoors outdoors.

  13. Back To Top    #13
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Out of answers

    Why is the pool not nice now? What does it look like? You should certainly use bleach
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
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    Re: Out of answers

    We are still trying to open it from winter when it was uncovered the whole time. Now we haven't been generating chlorine for a while, so although we have killed algae once, it is starting to come back. It doesn't look horrible, just has a green tint to it, and it is cloudy.
    18x36 in ground vinyl, two skimmers, two bottom drains, Hayward aqua rite salt system, filter - holds 350lbs of sand not sure what brand, heater, all equipment is inside our pool house, no equipment is exposed outdoors outdoors.

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    Mod Squad mknauss's Avatar
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    Re: Out of answers

    Then SLAM now. You do not want to use the SWCG during it anyway. Load up on liquid chlorine and start now.

    You do need a proper test kit. Do you have one? If not, order it now. TF100 or Taylor K2006C from TFTestkits.net
    6000 Gallon IG Fiberglass with integrated Spa;Pentair CCP240 Cartridge Filter with Pentair Intelliflo VS Pump and HTR250 heater. IC40 SWG. EasyTouch 4. Dolphin Active20 Robot "Roadrunner", TF 100 Test Kit w/SpeedStir!
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    Marty

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    Re: Out of answers

    Will this one work? They have it at my local pool store. Taylor Technologies K-2005 DPD Complete Chlorine Kit

    18x36 in ground vinyl, two skimmers, two bottom drains, Hayward aqua rite salt system, filter - holds 350lbs of sand not sure what brand, heater, all equipment is inside our pool house, no equipment is exposed outdoors outdoors.

  17. Back To Top    #17
    Mod Squad mknauss's Avatar
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    Re: Out of answers

    No. It does not include the FAS-DPD test for FC above 10 ppm

    You can only order the proper test kit online.
    6000 Gallon IG Fiberglass with integrated Spa;Pentair CCP240 Cartridge Filter with Pentair Intelliflo VS Pump and HTR250 heater. IC40 SWG. EasyTouch 4. Dolphin Active20 Robot "Roadrunner", TF 100 Test Kit w/SpeedStir!
    CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!! Pool Math App
    Marty

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    Re: Out of answers

    Is there anyway to do this without one of those kits? I really need to get started, but it will take two days for a test kit to get here, and I really don't have the extra money to spend since I just bought a new turbo cell. Any advice on how to get started without a test kit?
    18x36 in ground vinyl, two skimmers, two bottom drains, Hayward aqua rite salt system, filter - holds 350lbs of sand not sure what brand, heater, all equipment is inside our pool house, no equipment is exposed outdoors outdoors.

  19. Back To Top    #19
    Mod Squad mknauss's Avatar
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    Re: Out of answers

    We are hesitant to provide guidance without test results.
    To properly do the SLAM you must be able to test FC and have a good value for CYA.

    You are welcome to follow the process using any other means of testing you like.

    Take care.
    6000 Gallon IG Fiberglass with integrated Spa;Pentair CCP240 Cartridge Filter with Pentair Intelliflo VS Pump and HTR250 heater. IC40 SWG. EasyTouch 4. Dolphin Active20 Robot "Roadrunner", TF 100 Test Kit w/SpeedStir!
    CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!! Pool Math App
    Marty

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