Chemicals for pool closing

[jjoshua]

My pool gets covered with a solid cover. I'll keep it open as late as possible until the temps are in the 60s.

The closing kits that are sold at the pool store include a stain preventer and a non-chlorine floater. I've used this in the past but, like most other pool chemicals, do I really need to use this?

Also, how do I prevent algae from growing in the spring before I take off the cover? Do I remove the cover a bit and pour in some bleach or is there an easier way to maintain the water before I take off the cover?

 

[TizMe]

What part of the country are you in? If your in a cold winter climate it will make a big difference then if you are in a warmer winter climate. Some in warmer climate areas dont close, they just run their filter during the night to keep water circulation going to prevent pipes from freezing.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I don't think the "kits" are necessary or worth the expense.

The key to preventing the water from turning green is to open the pool before the water temp hits 60 degrees.

Some folk use a submersible pump to circulate the water while the periodically add a little bleach.

 

[jjoshua]

I'm in NJ so we get a hard freeze.

Removing the cover in the spring doesn't happen until all of the oak pollen falls from the trees. The temps are usually above 60 at this point. So, how do I add chlorine with the cover still on?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

You'd have to pull it back a bit somehow to allow for pouring chlorine/manual circulation of bleach.

Oak Pollen - that sounds messy. What if you hooked back up the filter and got circulation going, but left the cover on, and then added bleach thru the skimmer? Is that workable? Or does the cover half to be off for the equipment to be operational?

 

[Sparkmaster]

I live in NH and I take my winter cover off in mid to late April and replace it with the solar cover.. I usually go on Vacation for a week plus in Florida than come back and hook up the pool pump and add a Crud load chlorine and run it for a day than I shut it down and monitor it every week. I have done this for a few years now with no issues. When the water temp finally hits over 60, I start maintaining it a little more.. By mid may, I start up the Heater and away we go.. WOW thats 8 more months...

 

[H2O_Keeper]

I have a neighbors tree that dumps a ton of leaves in the pool the first week of October. Water temp was mid 70's last year that week. I plan to throw the cover on the last week of September. Raise the FC a few points and then monitor every few days and keep the proper FC/CYA ratio until the water is in the 60's (run pump add bleach as needed). I will then lift the cover where the returns are and seal, etc and close for the winter.

Same as the others, open it a little early (mid-april for me) and just keep an eye on the chlorine levels. Doing it this way I need no winterizing kits and can feel comfortable with keeping the FC in check for a few weeks after the core sunlight is removed and the temp low there will be a very small chance of algae to enter, nor take hold in cold water.

 

[jjoshua]

Will chlorine damage my solid cover?

 

[H2O_Keeper]

I would not pour any chlorine directly on/through the cover. I would also not shock my pool with the cover on (in case it could be sagging and touch). For my situation for my CYA I will only keep the pool at 5FC with the cover on (CYA 60), adding chlorine through the skimmer until the water is below 60. Did this last fall with no visible problems to the cover.