New Test Kit Results Bad

dmj4

0
Jul 22, 2009
62
I got my T100 test kit in the mail today. My results are not good. I had been having it tested at the pool store and they weren't good there either. I am armed with bleach, muratic acid and additional salt.
It is about a 25,000 gallon pool. It is an 18X37 Grecian with a deep end.

I have not started generating salt with my new SWG because the salt level was too low.
I have:
Salt - 2700
CYA - black dot was always visible (this falls in line with the pool store telling me it was 5 a few days ago)
Chlorine - was at the first color on test kit so .5-1 (this is actually higher)
TA - 160
CH - 150

I'm off to the calculator to see what I need to add.
Thanks!
 
dmj4 said:
I got my T100 test kit in the mail today. My results are not good.
Yes, but what is good is that you're testing and determining what to do based on those results! Your 2700 ppm salt reading means that you're almost to the point where you can start your SWG (after a few more 40 pound sacks!) More good news. :)

First, adjust the chlorine (use liquid chlorine such as 6% household bleach or 10%-12% sodium hypochlorite) so that FC (Free Chlorine) is at appropriate level. I didn't see in your post a measurement of pH, so that's got to follow right behind. Presume it is high since you mentioned you bought muriatic acid. And buy some CYA granules, since you will need to increase this soon.

dmj4 said:
I'm off to the calculator to see what I need to add.
Terrific.. If you haven't already, take a moment or two to read Recommended Levels and SWG Pool water balance

You're definitely on the right path. Remember to keep testing -- you're going to be an expert. :cool:
 
My PH was over the top at the 8.2 level. It matched the darkest color. We got about 5 or 6 inches of rain last night after adding 2 bags of salt, muratic acid and bleach, so back to the drawing board. We had to drain some of the water out this morning at about 5 AM. I will test again and start all over trying to get a good balance.

I am a little curious what happens if someone is gone and the rain pours in? I am afraid to ask what happens to my liner pool if it overflows. Is there anything I can do to keep this from happening, other than never go on a trip or anything? Please, break it to me gently.

Oh, the water looks beautiful and always has, no matter what my numbers have been. It is a new pool with new water (2 or 3 weeks). It is clear enough I can count the holes in the main drains in the 8 or 8 1/2 feet deep end. We have never had enough chlorine. I have shocked it twice and in addition I have added 2- 96 oz containers of bleach 3 different times. We have also had chlorine pucks in the chlorinator, they are gone now. I am trying to use just bleach.

Thank you so much for your help,
Donna
 
Last night I added about 40 oz of muratic acid, 96 oz of bleach and two bags of salt. We had lots of rain last night and had to drain some water off the pool this morning. I just tested again and these are my results.

Chlorine seems to be a little darker on the test, probably a 1 (up from .5).
PH is down to 7.8
TA is still 160
CH is 180 (up from 150)
CYA is still less than 20. (The black dot still did not disappear)

My husband is picking up Cyanuric Acid and Calcium today.
 
dmj4 said:
We got about 5 or 6 inches of rain last night
Donna, where do you live? It must be on a mountain top near the tropics! In California, we're lucky to see that much rain in as many months :p

dmj4 said:
I am afraid to ask what happens to my liner pool if it overflows.
Is this a really a possibility? I'd think that the builder or excavation crew are obligated to back-fill around the frame and provide drainage (overflow for pool, deck drains for surround or concrete deck, etc.) In my city, the building code inspector asked me for specifics regarding drains and overflows when I happend to be on-site during one of his inspections. You need to know if only for peace of mind.

dmj4 said:
We have never had enough chlorine. I have shocked it twice and in addition I have added 2- 96 oz containers of bleach 3 different times. We have also had chlorine pucks in the chlorinator, they are gone now. I am trying to use just bleach.
...
Chlorine seems to be a little darker on the test, probably a 1 (up from .5).
PH is down to 7.8
Congratulations on getting the pH down. You could probably save yourself some trips to the store by picking up some stronger bleach... 10% pool chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) is available in lots of venues (12, 12.5% is better yet.) Off-brand bleach found in grocery stores seems inexpensive, but you'll need an awful lot of 3% bleach to get your pool humming. Chlorox is around 6%.

At this point, I believe you're using the Pool Calculator to determine how much chlorine is needed? What is your Target (ideal) chlorine level for your pool? You'll want to get the chlorine at or above that level with good pH before you think about adding any more CYA or starting the SWG.
 
I want to thank everyone for their help. I did not have a hole in my liner from the cyanuric acid. I did brush it into the main drain. Thanks for that advice!

My latest water results. Am I the only one that can't tell what color the water matches on the K1000 test?

I think I'm getting there.
FC 3.5 (SWG Recommends 1-3) I've not been having any or very little.
CC 0
PH 7.8 (SWG Recommends 7.2-7.8)
TA 160 (SWG Recommends 80-120)
CH 180 I have a liner pool (SWG Recommends 200-400)
CYA not tested, I added cyanuric acid last night and have not retested, before adding I had <20 (SWG Recommends 60-80 80 best)
Salt 3200 (SWG Recommends 2700-3400) Am I correct that I read in Pool School that 200-400 higher than SWG recommended amount is better?
The Pool Calculator says my CSI is 0.17 -0.29. I'm not sure how to read this. (SWG recommends -.2 to .2)

The Cyanuric Acid is the only thing I have added that may not be total dissolved.

I think I have the numbers at a good enough level to begin using my SWG. Do you experts agree or should I wait until my TA and PH levels are down?

MY TA and PH are still high. Should I add more Muratic Acid or what?
Thank you!
Donna
 
dmj4 said:
My latest water results. Am I the only one that can't tell what color the water matches on the K1000 test?
Lots of us have issues reading the K1000 shades of yellow. Also, lots of us use our FAS/DPD test quite often :wink:
The K1000 is a bullet proof test to determine if you have chlorine in your water. For details/exact measurement use the FAS/DPD. The pH side can be a little trickey, too.


I think I'm getting there.
FC 3.5 (SWG Recommends 1-3) I've not been having any or very little.
Until you turn on your SWG, use the Chlorine/CYA Chart for your FC levels.

CC 0
PH 7.8 (SWG Recommends 7.2-7.8)
You should lower this to 7.4 or 7.5 each time it hits 7.8.

TA 160 (SWG Recommends 80-120)
The high TA, along wit the SWG, will cause your pH to rise often which will require frequent additions of MA.
You can see the Pool School article for how to lower your TA


CH 180 I have a liner pool (SWG Recommends 200-400)
180 is within range for vinyl w/SWG.

CYA not tested, I added cyanuric acid last night and have not retested, before adding I had <20 (SWG Recommends 60-80 80 best)
How much CYA did you add?

Salt 3200 (SWG Recommends 2700-3400) Am I correct that I read in Pool School that 200-400 higher than SWG recommended amount is better?
Scroll up to polyvue's post. He gave you two links. Your answer is in the "SWG Pool Water Balance" link. In fact, you may want to print those two articles. :wink:

The Pool Calculator says my CSI is 0.17 -0.29. I'm not sure how to read this. (SWG recommends -.2 to .2)

The Cyanuric Acid is the only thing I have added that may not be total dissolved.

I think I have the numbers at a good enough level to begin using my SWG. Do you experts agree or should I wait until my TA and PH levels are down?
MY TA and PH are still high. Should I add more Muratic Acid or what?
If you added enough CYA to get to 60 to 80 range (and wait 24 hours), AND lower your pH to about 7.4, then you should be able to crank up the SWG.

You can do the TA lowering as your next project. It will take some time.

Thank you!
Donna
 
Butterfly said:
dmj4 said:
My latest water results. Am I the only one that can't tell what color the water matches on the K1000 test?
Lots of us have issues reading the K1000 shades of yellow. Also, lots of us use our FAS/DPD test quite often :wink:
The K1000 is a bullet proof test to determine if you have chlorine in your water. For details/exact measurement use the FAS/DPD. The pH side can be a little trickey, too.


I think I'm getting there.
FC 3.5 (SWG Recommends 1-3) I've not been having any or very little.
Until you turn on your SWG, use the Chlorine/CYA Chart for your FC levels.

CC 0
PH 7.8 (SWG Recommends 7.2-7.8)
You should lower this to 7.4 or 7.5 each time it hits 7.8.

TA 160 (SWG Recommends 80-120)
The high TA, along wit the SWG, will cause your pH to rise often which will require frequent additions of MA.
You can see the Pool School article for how to lower your TA
I added about 40 oz of muriatic acid 3 days ago.
CH 180 I have a liner pool (SWG Recommends 200-400)
180 is within range for vinyl w/SWG.

CYA not tested, I added cyanuric acid last night and have not retested, before adding I had <20 (SWG Recommends 60-80 80 best)
How much CYA did you add? I added 3 lbs of CYA last night

Salt 3200 (SWG Recommends 2700-3400) Am I correct that I read in Pool School that 200-400 higher than SWG recommended amount is better?
Scroll up to polyvue's post. He gave you two links. Your answer is in the "SWG Pool Water Balance" link. In fact, you may want to print those two articles. :wink:

The Pool Calculator says my CSI is 0.17 -0.29. I'm not sure how to read this. (SWG recommends -.2 to .2)

The Cyanuric Acid is the only thing I have added that may not be total dissolved.

I think I have the numbers at a good enough level to begin using my SWG. Do you experts agree or should I wait until my TA and PH levels are down?
MY TA and PH are still high. Should I add more Muratic Acid or what?
If you added enough CYA to get to 60 to 80 range (and wait 24 hours), AND lower your pH to about 7.4, then you should be able to crank up the SWG. I probably did not add enough to get to 60 to 80. I was afraid to do too much at once.

You can do the TA lowering as your next project. It will take some time.

Thank you!
Donna
 
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