The pool is green and Im mobilizing my army

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rdkll

rdkll

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LifeTime Supporter
Jul 28, 2007
41
Huntsville, AL
I lost the handle a couple of weeks ago due to my stupidity.
This is my plan:
My robot will be here on Wed and my CYA was 90.
Over the weekend I replaced about 20% of 33.5K gal but have not got my new CYA yet. The pool calc suggest a drop from 90 to 70 but will check before I attack.
Prior to the water change my PH was 8.4.
Does a water change usually effect ph?
I am under the impression that before adding the bleach I need to have my ph at the 7.2-7.4 range.
I will then go to shock level and hold it there until I have no drop in overnight FC
All the while filtering and roboting the pool.
Does this look like a goop plan.
I still have a couple more inches of water to add
 
sounds like a good plan. Depending on the PH of your fill water, yes it change change your overall PH. Recheck PH and get it into that 7.5 range before shocking. Also if you have a full set of results post fill, go ahead an post them and maybe we can give you a few other pointers we may be missing :goodjob:
 
The last set of numbers I got was the other day. I will poste them (this was before my water change)
Water Change
Before After
FC>>>>>> 0.................0
CC>>>>>>0.................0
ph>>>>>>8.4.................8.4
CYA>>>>>>90.................30 (did the test 3x at different points)
TA>>>>>> 89.................100

Over the weekend I drained about 896 cubic feet......lowered the level by about a foot, and by calculations about 20% of the pool

I had held off on my attack until I got my robot.
Will be picking up bleach and acid today and beginning the frontal assault (I am surprised by my Army references, I was in the NAvy)
 
The seabees have drained the swamp (CYA) and you can start your bombardment and depth charges (acid/bleach). You want to get the pH straightened out before you raise FC higher than 10, as the FC starts to interfere with the pH test after that point; but you can start adding some bleach right away, don't have to get pH all done before you start the bleach.
--paulr
 
I noticed that my Polaris instructions say to remove the Polaris when shocking the pool. I have no idea what sort of damage they might anticipate, nor whether your robot might have similar precautions.
 
Admiral Roadkill,

Sir, depending on the amount of algae that is killed, it may quickly exceed the capacity of the robot, sir.

With permission, I would suggest if the Admiral inflicts truly massive casualties on the algae (likely), he might alternatively use a vacuum head to slurp the bodies into the pool filter or, if the Admiral lives in an area where water is cheap, he may consider vacuuming to the waste position....thereby dumping the casualties entirely from the system.

Your robot is a loyal soldier and will do his best.....you may be asking him to exceed his capabilty, however.

Regardless, I'm sure he will be eligible for the bronze star if he fights bravely but be careful......we don't want him winning the Navy Cross........those are usually posthumous. :shock: :shock:

Respectfully,

bosun's mate Dave
 
OK, I started the assault today at about 12:30 pm cdst.

I put a gallon of muriatic acid and either my ph was way high or something else that Im not sure of.
It is about 8.2
Including the initial assault and the hourly renforcements thru the afternoon to the tune of 15 182oz jugs.
I also got in the sahallow end and walked around and kicked up the slime and where the slime was removed, the vinyl felt like it did when the pool was clear so Im feeling like its going the right way. Im a litle concerned about the ph though.
Any thoughts?
FC 20 for the moment
CC 0
TA 100
CYA 30 ...I have done 3 tests and they all ended up being 30...so I guess consistancy...
 

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Once you have raised the FC to above 10, don't bother testing pH, it will read incorrectly high.

If FC should drop to less than 10 during the course of the attack on algae, take that opportunity to test pH again before you add more bleach. Calculate the correct amount of acid, add it, circulate, and retest pH before continuing with the primary attack plan.

Also, check the strength of your acid, some hardware stores sell a version that is not as strong as the default setting on the Pool Calculator.

How are you doing testing? If using the TF100 kit you can save the mixed solution and pour it all back into the squeeze bottle to do the test again to see if your judgement on when the dot dissappears is consistant, or let your spouse do it.
 
anonapersona said:
I noticed that my Polaris instructions say to remove the Polaris when shocking the pool. I have no idea what sort of damage they might anticipate, nor whether your robot might have similar precautions.
Click to expand...
Re the Polaris, I suspect caution related to the soft underbelly, uh, the flexible tubes and belts inside. I suppose I am asking for trouble, having forgotten to take it out twice now when I had to shock. Re the robot, mfr's instructions or owner's manual ought to say something if it's an issue.

anonapersona said:
How are you doing testing? If using the TF100 kit you can save the mixed solution and pour it all back into the squeeze bottle to do the test again to see if your judgement on when the dot dissappears is consistant, or let your spouse do it.
Click to expand...
The Secretary of Anonymity is of course referring to the CYA test here, not the FC or pH tests. Personally I always use tell-me-three-times on the black-dot part of the test. No need to burn through three doses of R-0013 each time.
--paulr
 
I just checked my first fc overnight drop test and the result are promising:
At 2100 (9pm) fc was 20 ppm
at 0545 is was 15.5 ppm......will recharge back to 20 and check it when I get home

Also, thanks for the idea of reusing the CYA test mix
 
anonapersona said:
I noticed that my Polaris instructions say to remove the Polaris when shocking the pool. I have no idea what sort of damage they might anticipate, nor whether your robot might have similar precautions.
Click to expand...

I just read a pdf copy of the Aquabot manual and it didnt say anything specifically about using while shocking the pool. I hope I will be OK
 
Well. I just got home and over the course of the day it consumed appx 14 ppm of chlorine. From 20 to 6, Im going to bring it back up to 20 and then get the Robot to work....it was waiting for me.

One more thing, over the course of today, the general appearance of the water has gone from green to cloudy blue, I assume that the cloudy is the remains of the dead algae.
 
Hello form the front

I brought the chloring back up to 20 ppm and ran the robot for about an hour....pretty cool. This morning the the chloring was abot 7-8 so there was about 12-13 ppm consumed and the water is continually looking less and less green and more very cloudy blue....
Man I cannot wait till the overnight consumption is zero, I have used all but about 8 of the 34 182 oz jugs of bleach.
I also will be running the robot longer tonight.......
 
The pool is officially blue again

Threads Merged for Consistency

very cloudy but blue....Im hoping the cloudy is the dead algae

I had an overnight drop of about 12ppm and I did not have enough bleach to get it to 20.......will I lose the battle or will I be able to get back in front after I get more bleah today.

I am fully expecting the clorine to be zero when I get home based on the other days since I started this battle :party: :party: :party: :cheers:
 
Re: The pool is officially blue again

rdkll said:
I had an overnight drop of about 12ppm and I did not have enough bleach to get it to 20.......will I lose the battle or will I be able to get back in front after I get more bleah today.
Click to expand...

This is why I think it is a good idea to keep some cal-hypo in storage... you could have boosted the chlorine long enough to allow you to restock on bleach. The bump in calcium should not make much difference even if your pool is near the upper range on calcium if you are not relying on it too often. My pool would see about a 6 ppm rise in calcium if I took it from 6 to 16 ppm FC shock level.
 

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