I don't have any power output between the 2 yellow wires. The troubleshooting manual says this means the rectifiers are bad, but I don't think so. I've a tester for diodes and it shows .4V or .8V in one direction only. This manual seems to test the transformer only by measuring the resistance on the Blue and White, and Violet and Grey and these check out within specs (about 2.4ohms). I disconnected both yellow wires and checked the voltage and there's none. I'm thinking that means the transformer is blown. I've read there's a internal fuse of some sorts, but regardless, I ought to get voltage across the yellows, right??
Aqua Rite Transformer Question - yellow wires show no voltage
- Thread starter lews
- Start date
Meadow
0
Usually the built-in fuse protects the primary winding of the transformer. But your test confirmed the primary winding is good!
Disconnect the 2 yellow wires and measure the resistance or continuity. If there is no continuity across the two yellow wires then most likely the built-in thermal fuse (if any) is fused. The fuse is normally buried under multiple layers of insulation tape and in this case, it should be on the secondary side. You can dig in deeper without removing the iron core if you are technically inclined. If all is good, there should be 24 VAC across the yellow wires.
Not sure how you test the bridge rectifiers. If any diode inside the package is bad, it will overload the transformer resulting in a blown fuse.
Good luck!
Added: OP, before you butchered the transformer, please make sure the yellow wires are making good contact with the spade connectors. I've seen a case here whereby the wires are slightly burnt and barely making contact with the spade connector. Just a food for thought!
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Are you getting a display or any lights?
If you're getting a display, what are the diagnostic readings?
Check the yellow 20 amp fuse.
Check the thermistor. It's a black disc upper right about the size of a quarter.
Did you verify that the incoming power was correct?
If you're getting a display, what are the diagnostic readings?
Check the yellow 20 amp fuse.
Check the thermistor. It's a black disc upper right about the size of a quarter.
Did you verify that the incoming power was correct?
Meadow
0
James,
OP stated
I somehow trust the OP, he seems to be skilled and know what he's doing. He's on the right track in troubleshooting the transformer.
OP stated
. Means, system is dead.
I somehow trust the OP, he seems to be skilled and know what he's doing. He's on the right track in troubleshooting the transformer.
I don't think that it's the transformer. The transformer checked out ok. I would leave the transformer alone.
I think that my advice is correct.
Check incoming power.
Check for 20 to 24 VAC between the yellow wires. Make sure meter is set to AC not DC.
Check the 20 amp yellow fuse.
Check for 10-14 VAC between the orange wire and the green grounding lug.
Check diagnostics if available.
Check thermistor for cracks.
Thanks for everyone's help. You're right, I checked DC on the yellow. Darn. I'll check again tonight. BTW - my tester has a diode setting, and I have an extra bridge rectifier and tried that anyway. I've got no lights or display of any kind. I also didn't check the orange/ground lug.
- - - Updated - - -
Oh, and I checked the thermistor first thing.
Thanks again for the help. Line to line is 244VAC. Yellow to Yellow is 24VAC. Orange to ground lug shows proper voltage. So I now checks red and black wires according to the troubleshooter and it shows no VDC (should be 18-33 VDC). So this takes me back to the rectifiers. I only have one so maybe they are both bad and I'm not testing them properly somehow. So I guess I buy 2 rectifiers??
And someone suggested I check the tightness of the connectors and I did - all seem good.
Try replacing the yellow 20 amp fuse.
If that doesn't work, then replace the rectifiers.
If that doesn't work, then replace the rectifiers.
How To: Replace an AquaRite Fuse - YouTube
Here is a video about replacing the fuse.
Take the fuse to any hardware or automotive store for a replacement.
You can use a multimeter to check the fuse.
Here is a video about replacing the fuse.
Take the fuse to any hardware or automotive store for a replacement.
You can use a multimeter to check the fuse.
Meadow
0
hmmm....I'll take this back. I have reasons to believed, my troubleshooting skills over the internet is doomed to fail.
Sorry, I didn't see this coming and wasn't expecting at all from you.
...this is broad and more complex! But what is the proper voltage?
I can only assume you set the Voltmeter to measure DC voltage to probe the Red and Black wires. The Voltage across the Red and Black wires when connected to a functional PCB is a mirror of the Voltage reading on the Display under Diagnostic. This is true, regardless of the system AC power input configuration.
The yellow 20A fuse, link the orange and one of yellow wires from the Transformer.
Tips for you... before you shotgun the Rectifiers!
1. disconnect the red and black wires from the PCB.
2. set the Voltmeter to measure DC
3. turn on the AC power and probe across the red and black wires. If the rectifiers are good, you should read 23-24V DC. If false, inspect the fuse. By design, the Fuse should blow if one of the rectifier went bad!
Just make sure to replace the rectifiers with the same type number and take note of the polarity. Take pictures before pulling any wires.
For the record, I misused my testing and finally got a VDC on red and black (after replacing the rectifiers - unnecessarily). At that point, it had to be the board, which I replaced and fixed it.