replacing vintage Aqua pure 1400 system recommendations

[ratdog33]

Hello, new to the forum. I have a 17000 gallon pool that was installed for me back in 2006. The pool was done by premier pools here in Rocklin, Ca. and has an Aquapure 1400 saltwater system.

I replaced the pool pump and have repaired the Aqua pure a couple of times, new board and sensor. I am getting error codes 170 and disabled the alarm by pulling the jumper. I am pretty sure the chlorine cell stop working a couple of years ago, as I have been using tablets and shock these last couple of years.

I would like to replace the entire system, e.g cell, sensor and required controller panel and would like to have some suggestions from folks here that have experience, my goal would be to end up with a shopping list of parts that I can purchase and install myself. I am pretty handy, I just need some sound advice before I pull out my credit card.

My objective would be to end up with a saltwater system that is reasonably robust without just throwing money at the problem.

Appreciate any advice given. Thanks in advance.

RD

 

[needsajet]

Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here

People here are pretty comfortable with Pentair, Hayward and Jandy. If you want to add an automation system at any point in the future, I'd go with one of those brands. Otherwise, I'd probably go with Circupool which a fair number here have, for better value and warranty (watch for their upgrade option). This website has a good comparison table: Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features

For 17,000 gallon, buy one rated for at least 1.4 lbs FC/day.

 

[ratdog33]

Thanks I ordered the RJ45 plus system.

 

[needsajet]

That's a good choice. Let us know if we can help out with anything else

 

[ratdog33]

I was hoping that I could simply put the new circupool cell inplace where the accurite is now, but the threads on the new cell won’t thread up to the existing plumbing. Calling the vendor tomorrow to see if there might be an adapter, or fitting I can use. As you can see there is not enough existing pipe stubbing out to do much with.

 

[needsajet]

Let us know what they say. It is a bit tight, but I'm sure we can work out a way to do it if need be.

 

[PoolGate]

Whoever put that in originally really screwed you. You aren't going to find any adapter that works. My advice is send back the RJ45 and get another AquaPure.

 

[aerangis]

My advice is send back the RJ45 and get another AquaPure.

+1

Aquapure is about as good of a swcg that you can get.

 

[ping]

You will have a hard time finding an AquaPure with that style of cell as it is long discontinued.

You might think about breaking out the cement around the cell and plumb a new line. This would be the best long term solution.

Another solution would be to leave the old AquaPure cell in place and use it as a dummy cell. You will have to reconfigure the outlet pipe out of the filter. It will add a U-turn in the plumbing but it can be done easy enough.

 

[PoolGate]

You will have a hard time finding an AquaPure with that style of cell as it is long discontinued.

You might think about breaking out the cement around the cell and plumb a new line. This would be the best long term solution.

Another solution would be to leave the old AquaPure cell in place and use it as a dummy cell. You will have to reconfigure the outlet pipe out of the filter. It will add a U-turn in the plumbing but it can be done easy enough.

Yes but I believe the new style is a direct replacement. The threads should be the same and I think the size is also the same.

- - - Updated - - -

You will have a hard time finding an AquaPure with that style of cell as it is long discontinued.

You might think about breaking out the cement around the cell and plumb a new line. This would be the best long term solution.

Another solution would be to leave the old AquaPure cell in place and use it as a dummy cell. You will have to reconfigure the outlet pipe out of the filter. It will add a U-turn in the plumbing but it can be done easy enough.

Yes but I believe the new style is a direct replacement. The threads should be the same and I think the size is also.

https://www.jandy.com/en/products/water-sanitizers/aquapure

3.7.3 Replacement of old 2-Port (Square) Cell with new 3-Port Cell
1. Be sure pool pump is turned off.
2. Unplug DC cable from existing cell. Disconnect the DC cord from the wiring harness as shown in
Figure 2a, 2b, and 2c. Loosen the strain relief fitting that also contains the cable for flow/temp/salinity
sensor. Pull the DC cord out through the strain relief.
Do not allow the DC Cord to pull too tightly on flow/temp/salinity sensor cable as it is being pulled
through the strain relief. This may damage the flow/temp/salinity sensor cable and its connection to the
printed circuit board.
CAUTION
3. Please choose one of the following options (See Table 1):
3a. Option 1 - Retain Existing Sensor in Threaded Tee
3b. Option 2 - Install New Sensor in 3rd Port of Cell (remove old sensor and plug tee)
3c. Option 3 - Replace Section of Piping (eliminate old cell and sensor fittings) and treat as New Installation
2-Port Cell
Thread Size and Style Option 1 Option 2 Option 3
2" PVC Male (black) Yes Yes Yes
1.5" ABS Female (White "Hayward®" Style) No No Yes
Table 1. Option Selection Tool
Page 20 ENGLISH ENGLISH Jandy® Pro Series AquaPure®/PureLink™ Power Center and Cell Kit | Installation and Operation Manual
3a. Option 1 - Retain Existing Sensor in Threaded Tee
a. Remove old 2-Port cell body by unscrewing coupling nuts on ports. The cell body will be free to
pull out after nuts are clear of the threads.
b. Replace existing union o-rings with new o-rings provided with cell kit.
c. Install new cell and tighten coupling nuts.
NOTE 3-Port Cell and 2-Port cell are the same length. The new cell should fit without any need to modify existing
plumbing.
d. Ensure that the 3rd port is sealed off with provided o-ring, plug and nut. Verify coupling nut is
properly hand tightened.
e. Go to Step 4, below.
3b. Option 2 - Install New Sensor in 3rd Port of Cell (remove old sensor and plug tee)
a. Remove old flow/temp/salinity sensor by unscrewing it from the threaded tee.
b. Replace sensor with 1 ½” threaded plug.
c. Disconnect the flow/temp/salinity sensor from the Power Interface PCB as shown in Figure 2a, 2b,
and 2c. Loosen the strain relief fitting that also contains the cable for the DC cord. Pull the flow/
temp/salinity sensor cable out through the strain relief.
d. Remove old 2-port cell body by unscrewing coupling nuts on ports. The cell body will be free to
pull out after nuts are clear of the threads.
e. Replace existing union o-rings with new o-rings provided with cell kit.
f. Install new cell and tighten coupling nuts.
NOTE 3-Port Cell and 2-Port cell are the same length. The new cell should fit without any need to modify existing
plumbing.

 

[aerangis]

You will have a hard time finding an AquaPure with that style of cell as it is long discontinued.

You might think about breaking out the cement around the cell and plumb a new line. This would be the best long term solution.

Another solution would be to leave the old AquaPure cell in place and use it as a dummy cell. You will have to reconfigure the outlet pipe out of the filter. It will add a U-turn in the plumbing but it can be done easy enough.

There's no need for all that extra work.

A new Aquapure cell will fit right in.

 

[ping]

The length is not the same, the new cells are 1" longer and I'm not sure if the unions have the same thread or are a different size. If they are the same size then there will be less to plumb with a new Jandy cell and that would be the best option by far.

Another interesting thing with this setup is, where is the flow switch?

 

[PoolGate]

The length is not the same, the new cells are 1" longer and I'm not sure if the unions have the same thread or are a different size. If they are the same size then there will be less to plumb with a new Jandy cell and that would be the best option by far.

Another interesting thing with this setup is, where is the flow switch?

According to Jandy, it is a direct replacement with no plumbing mods needed. Take a look at the snippet I posted above.

 

[ping]

I couldn't find the direct replacement section you are referring to but in this link page 23 gives the specs on the lengths of the new and old cells, they are 1" different, https://www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0325600.pdf.

 

[PoolGate]

I couldn't find the direct replacement section you are referring to but in this link page 23 gives the specs on the lengths of the new and old cells, they are 1" different, https://www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0325600.pdf.

Check 3.7.3 in that same link. I would guess they use the plumbing to make them both the same length.

 

[ping]

There is conflicting information in that link to say the least.

Back about 5 years ago there were many people switching the cells from old to new and some people were able to find new cells with the same fit while most people had to replumb.

Anyways, the easiest option would be to get a new Jandy cell and install it where the old cell is. If there is any new plumbing required it will be minimal.

 

[aerangis]

There is conflicting information in that link to say the least.

Back about 5 years ago there were many people switching the cells from old to new and some people were able to find new cells with the same fit while most people had to replumb.

Anyways, the easiest option would be to get a new Jandy cell and install it where the old cell is. If there is any new plumbing required it will be minimal.

There's no conflicting information. The cells come in one length only, and the length is fixed.

If someone had to replumb just to replace a Jandy cell with another Jandy cell of the same output, I have a hard time believing it.

 

[needsajet]

I don't know anything about vintage jandy cell housings, so I'll stay out of that one

As already mentioned, chipping out concrete and replacing it with a bit of ready-mix is not that huge of a job, and might be the easiest.

I've been wanting to do a write-up on a method for saving a stub for a while, so I made a thread to describe it. Maybe this option would fit for you. Saving a PVC stub

 

[ratdog33]

I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. I did as suggested and chewed the union cap off the stub, then used a hack saw blade to make what I would call saw kerfs into the old fitting I then took a small screw driver and popped what was left of the Union off sanded it down. Easy peasy, took about 30 minutes. Thanks!

I could not finish the plumbing, I was sent an odd sized T for the flow switch. It was slightly larger than the 2” pipe e.g. 1/8” difference. I called the vendor and they mentioned something about metric size, huh?! Anyway they are sending me another.

 

[needsajet]

A good idea is to glue a plain old slip coupling on the stub and then plan your layout to have some straight ordinary pipe coming up before any other fittings. That way if you make any future changes, you can just cut pipe and fit whatever is needed onto it, saving the bother you just had.

When you've saved a stub like that, just be sure when you glue the coupling on that you follow all the best practices for PVC plumbing (i.e. sand it, prime it (both coupling and pipe, thorough glue coverage on both, and rotate 1/4 turn as you push it on. That way any imperfections are looked after by dissolving PVC and filling in any rough spots.