Opening Pool - Very High Free Chlorine

[mikefamig]

Using this method, is the CYA reading the number when you last saw the dot..... or the number when you can no longer see the dot? For example, I see the dot at 50, but can't see it at 40, is my CYA 40 or 50?

Also, I did not quite have enough Stabilizer to raise it from 20 to 30 (about 2 oz. short). Could I start floating Trichlor Tabs to keep FC up and add a little CYA?
is the

I would call it 50. I rather err on the low side than have the CYA go too high. Then watch your chlorine demand. If you are losing a lot of chlorine to the sun, bump up the CYA 10. Keep in mind that while CYA protects chlorine from sun loss it also makes you free chlorine less effective and requires you to maintin a higher FC level.

I feel that good is good enough. I have my CYA at 50 and use about 2 pints chlorine per day. I may be able to use a little less chlorine by adding CYA but I'm calling it good enough.

Mike.

 

[mikefamig]

Using this method, is the CYA reading the number when you last saw the dot..... or the number when you can no longer see the dot? For example, I see the dot at 50, but can't see it at 40, is my CYA 40 or 50?

Also, I did not quite have enough Stabilizer to raise it from 20 to 30 (about 2 oz. short). Could I start floating Trichlor Tabs to keep FC up and add a little CYA?
is the

I want to add that I understand that the reading is 40 if you follow the instructions that come wiht the test kit. The instructions are to read the result when the dot disappears. Your dot was visible at 50 so the resulty is 40.

It is my decision to err on the low side.

Mike.

 

[JPMorgan]

Okay to keep liquid chlorine outside as long as it is in shade. I’m getting tired of running to basement!

 

[Derb22]

Yeah in the short term. Not the greatest long term as it will deteriorate quicker. For your immediate response needs shade is fine.

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A word of friendly advice from a newbie around here. Forget any and everything the pool store suggest or says. If you want a clear Trouble Free Pool listen to these guys, follow the method. Will be the best year you have ever had managing your pool!! Trying to get advice or listen to two sources (especially a pool store) could result in a bad recipe.

Good luck. Keep slamming!!!

 

[JPMorgan]

Yes. I am now following what TFP experts advise and forgetting everything else.

Need to keep adding chlorine every coupe of hours to keep FC at 12. Is it okay to float some Trichlor Tabs while continuing the SLAM to keep FC up and also add some CYA? I need a little more CYA.

 

[mknauss]

You can use some Trichlor. Remember that they are acidic and could effect your pH too.

 

[JPMorgan]

Thanks, Marty. Throwing in another quart of liquid chlorine and adding a floater of Trichlor to help fight the battle with the hot sun today.

TA was on the high side when starting so once SLAM is complete if pH has gone up I can add a little muriatic acid to bring both down to target range.

Making progress.....

 

[JPMorgan]

Seems like I am burning through chlorine. Granted it is HOT this weekend in Chicago, but I am adding more every time I check it (every few hours).

Questions about reading CYA level. When I stand with the sun at my back and hold the tube waist high, do I block the sun with my body or let the sunlight hit the tube. If I let the sunlight from behind shine down into the tube then I can see the dot when the tube is full, but if I hold it waist high and blocjk the sun I can't see the dot. It makes a big difference if I do it one way or the other. Don't want to add more CYA until I understand how to do the test correctly.

I have been doing the SLAM for a couple of days now and still have cloudy water. The pool did get use today and it was very HOT.

Here are my latest readings:
FC 11
CC 0
ph 7.4 (yesterday)
TA 130 (yesterday)
CYA < 30 (if I allow the sunlight to from behind to shine right into the tube)

PoolMath says CSI less than .6 is suggestive of problems for plaster pool. My reading is -.01. Could this be the reason for the cloudiness? I have never used this much chlorine when opening my pool in the past. I have passed 2 of the 3 OCLT tests. Only issue is the cloudiness. Could I have a plaster problem??? Pool was painted about 3 years ago. I have painted it about every 5 years using an epoxy paint. Have not stopped filtering in 2 weeks and been doing the SLAM, but still cloudy. Seems like something else could be going on. HELP.

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Sorry that CSI level suggestive of problems for plaster pool is less than -0.6 (not less than .6). Not sure if my reading of -.01 is less than or more than -0.6. Please clarify. Thanks.

 

[mknauss]

Put the sun to your back and hold the vial at waist, shaded from the sun.

Your CSI is OK. -.01 is greater than -0.6.

 

[JPMorgan]

Will test CYA again tomorrow using that method. Thanks.

 

[JPMorgan]

I am lying awake at 1:30 in the morning thinking about my pool. I have never had an issue with cloudiness like I am having this year. I have been following the SLAM method faithfully. I have learned a lot about water chemistry and have found this site very, very helpful and I will continue to use the SLAM method going forward.

BUT.... it has been two weeks since I opened my pool and I have been running the filter 24/7 and I still have this cloudy water that I can't seem to clear up. Something more seems to be going on here and I don't think the solution to my pool problem is more chlorine. For 20 years I got by with my Poolmaster test kit, test strips, Cal Hypo, Trichlor Tabs.... and lots of luck.... and I usually had nice clear water most of the summer. So I can't help thinking something else is going on with my pool this year..... and I don't think more chlorine is the solution.

So what's different this year??? This year I switched the media in my sand filter to something called Filterglass. I used regular sand for many years, then tried zeosand (which has been in my filter for the past 5 years). This year it was time to change the sand again and I came across this product called Filterglass, so I thought I would give it a try. Here is what I found out about Filterglass before trying it... and here are some reviews of the product.

While all indications are that it is a good product, I can't help but thinking that this is the ONE FACTOR that changed this year... and I am slowly coming to the conclusion that what I have is a filter problem...... not a FC problem.

I sure hate to do this because changing sand is a big pain in the butt and this will be a huge waste of money, but I think I have to pull this stuff out of my filter and go back to either regular sand or zeosand.

Any advice before I take this drastic step to try to fix my cloudy pool. I have tried using some DE in the filter and so far it does not seem to be working. I wonder if it is even possible that the DE is getting through this particular type of media and getting into my pool and contributing to the cloudiness. Is that possible?

Any thoughts would be helpful before I take the drastic step of changing my sand again after just doing this lousy chore two weeks ago!

 

[mknauss]

The best filter media for a sand filter is sand. Sand rarely needs to be changed. It does not wear out. The only reason to change sand is the use of pool store potions (clarifiers, floc) or if the pool owner has had a Bacquacil pool and is converting to chlorine. A deep clean is also suggested each year.

You could try a deep clean with your filter media.

If you change back to sand, be sure to use quality #20 sand.

Good luck.

 

[JPMorgan]

Thanks, Marty. May give it a little more time with additions of DE and continued backwashing before switching back to sand.... maybe try to get through this year and switch back to regular sand when opening next year. Ugh!

 

[JPMorgan]

By the way....... do you recommend using a base of pea gravel with the sand or just go with straight sand? My filter manual says I can do it either way.... just use less sand if using a base of pea gravel. It's been a while, but I seem to remember having a little better result with just sand. Will pressure typically run a little higher if just using sand?

 

[greg w]

Thanks, Marty. May give it a little more time with additions of DE and continued backwashing before switching back to sand.... maybe try to get through this year and switch back to regular sand when opening next year. Ugh!

might be worth buying an ammonia test kit from the pet store. I had a problem similar to yours albeit my cya dropped to 0 as the cya got turned into ammonia. Not sure this is your problem but it is a little odd your cya keeps dropping. See what the pros here think but maybe worth mentioning

 

[mknauss]

The information on the forum implies to use just sand. No members have ever mentioned using pea gravel. I would think sand would be better so when you deep clean you would not mix the two gravel sizes.

 

[KerryR]

OP, consider taking your filter head apart and examine the gaskets and parts. Last year, my pool wouldn't clear. I took the head apart, and found that a rodent had apparently gotten up the back-wash line and gnawed at the spider assembly. Consequently, some water was able to bypass the filter and return to the pool, but, amazingly, didn't leak out the backwash port. I replaced the spider assembly, and the pool cleared up a couple days later.

 

[JPMorgan]

I replaced the spider assembly, and the pool cleared up a couple days later.

By "spider assembly" do you mean that 5 spoke gasket that is visible when you take off the top assembly of the valve (I think that's what it is called). You could be on to something because I have had some leaking from my valve handle and actually ordered a new top assembly this year. I have the part and also the gasket kit, which includes that 5-spoke gasket and a new O-ring for the assembly and a couple other O-rings and gaskets. Plan to do that job soon. I was looking at a video on Youtube about changing the assembly. It looks pretty simple to do. The video said to glue the gasket in place and recommended Locktite #401, #403, or #416. Any videos on this site about changing the top assembly on a Hayward SP710 Multiport Valve?

Is it important to find a glue with one of those numbers on it? When I went to the hardware store they have different tubes of Locktite, but nothing had a number on it. I want to make sure I'm using the right stuff so I do this job once the right way! Thanks for all the tips.

 

[JPMorgan]

Also...wanted to mention my most recent readings this afternoon:
FC 5.5
CC 0
pH 7.4
TA 120
CH 240
CYA (Didn't measure. Nee to get more reagent.)

Put DE in the filter this morning and had to backwash this afternoon. Pool is a looking a tad better, but not where I want it. Going to keep adding DE daily to try to get it clear and hoping that replacing that valve assembly may do the trick.

Going to maintain FC at 5.0 and check CYA asap.

 

[KerryR]

Yeah, the spider assembly is the spoked gasket and it's backing plate. This plate is what is attached to the filter head handle, and allows for the various modes on the filter. On my filter head, the spider gasket and backing plate are glued together at the factory, but many, if not most, allow for replacing the gasket separately. Some need sticky stuff, others stay in place by friction, and yet others, like mine, only come permanently attached to the backing plate. You'll want to be certain you're referencing your specific filter head.

My pool went from green to almost clear in 3 days (I'm not done slaming, though), which is the fastest I've seen it since I got the pool/house 4 years ago. It usually took a week or more. I'm blaming the gasket/plate replacement because very little else changed.