What should I do from this point forward? Please help a noob....

May 22, 2018
23
Upstate New York, USA!
Hi everyone!

Despite having our pool (details in sig) for three summers now, I am largely a noob when it comes to pool maintenance, however I am here to learn. With the festive weekend approaching, we are anxious to get our pool going, but we are still experiencing very cloudy water, and I'm hoping someone here can offer some fast advice. I have already read enough on this forum to know that testing is vital, and I did just yesterday order the TF-100 test kit with the SpeedStir gizmo, but obviously it's not here yet. I did get a test done at the local pool store today, and I will post those results in the hopes someone can help me do something productive before the TF-100 kit comes (which is back-ordered, I believe). I've also now read through much of the beginner info here at TFP.com, so I'm starting to realize my mistakes, and want to start learning the TFPC method of maintenance.

A short background: I've decided that this year I really want to clean up the pool, and learn to run it correctly (unlike past years), which led me here in the last few days. We also had purchased and installed a brand new 22" sand filter and new sand just this spring (2018). However, for a number of reasons we never opened the pool last year, and it had been overwhelmed with leaves two falls ago, so it was a complete mess when I pulled the cover off. Waist high, black, nasty water, with leaves about thigh high. My wife was mortified, and proclaimed that she would refuse to go into our pool if I didn't completely drain that water and refill the pool with fresh water. I knew that was a bad idea, but I absolutely had to show her some immediate improvement. So first thing is I climbed in physically with a sport fishing landing net, and with that net I was able to get the majority of the large leaves out. I had on hand pool store chemicals from previous seasons, as well as pool store chemical mentality, so a that point I added about 2 pounds of basic bagged shock powder, and started topping off with clean water. Additionally, I added about 4 pounds of CYA and some Alk buffer I had on hand. I only have some dip strip tests that are at least two years old now, so I knew I was "adding and hoping", but I just had to make an improvement, or the wife was not going to be happy.....

The initial shocked helped turn the water from black to gray/blue, where it's been ever since, but was a large improvement; enough to give my wife some hope. In the last week and a half or so, I've continued to use A LOT of the packets of shock, as well as keeping two Dichlor pucks going at all times, in the hopes of keeping my sanitizer levels high. I now realize that these products were also adding unnecessary and counter productive levels of CYA, on top of what I had previously added, and I know that it's only liquid chlorine bleach from now on. Knowing my pH was low, I added 8 pounds of 20 Mule Borax last night. So that's basically what I've been doing, and where I am now.

I have read about and want to start to SLAM my system. In my mind, that's more or less what I was trying to do with all the shock packs, but I don't yet have the test kit to do it correctly, and there's still so much organic material in the water that needs to be removed physically. I don't believe so much waste could be oxidized by bleach, without being prohibitively expensive and/or heavy to haul.

Also, because I had good luck doing it in past seasons, I purchased a flocculent called PowerFloc from my local store. Although my pH was a little low (per pool store test and floc directions), I decided to try to floc the pool anyway. I did this Monday afternoon, and by the evening it looked like it was working great, but then it POURED overnight, and kind of ruined things. Tuesday morning I vacuumed though I could not see more than about 6" down. Honestly, I am tempted to floc again today, which was also the advice of my local pool store guy. I have so much organic material in the water and I don't know a better way to get it out. I don't believe my humble sand filter will be able to pull out these fine bits. Imagine a leaf that has kind of disintegrated into a hundred minute bits of this and that, then multiply that by about a million leaves. Between vacuuming and using the leaf rake, I feel strongly that I've got 99% of all the actually leaves, sticks, and larger debris, though I can't see to be certain. I do have a ring around the liner I need to scrub and vacuum up, and then there's all the bits and pieces I've been mentioning. I'm also high on CYA, and if I floc I'll wave to vacuum off and replace water anyway, thereby helping to drop my CYA level, so I guess my biggest question for you guys is should I floc again? I think I'd like to, I think it needs it, yet I am wondering if it's kind of anti to the TFPC paradigm.

So to summarize, I guess the big questions would be, should I floc again or not at this point? The Floc I'm using suggest a pH as high as 8.0, should I bring my pH a little higher still? And really, what can we do to have any chance of getting the pool cleaned up and usable by the weekend without a test kit? I can have testing done at my local store, and I also do have some dip strips, as well as a multitude of test kits for the aquarium hobby, including pH and ammonia, if needed. From this point forward, what would you guys do to get my pool clean and clear? Any and all help is very much appreciated!!

Recent Local Pool Store testing results (as they call them):
5/21/18:
pH: 6.7
FC: 2.8
Adjusted Total Alkalinity: 76
Total Chlorine: 3.5
Total Hardness: 121
CYA 53

5/23/18:
pH 7.4
FC: 15 (max value their machine could record, so could be higher)
Adjusted Total Alkalinity: 77
Total Chlorine: 15 (again max value for their equipment)
Total hardness: 138
CYA: 80

Please let me know if you need any more information to try to help. Thank you in advance for your consideration!

-AquaCat
 
Do not floc again. All those potions are causing you more grief, such as gumming up your sand. Stop now.

You *must* get all that leaf debris out or your chlorine will just be wasted trying to oxydize that.

I'd take care of that while waiting for the test kit.. and stay out of the pool store as they're just making a sale off you and your pool is still a mess.

When you get the test kit tell us:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA (done outside on a sunny day)

Maddie :flower:
 
Hi! Thank you for your help! To be fair, the pool store didn't sell me anything, I did go looking for the floc. I have completely removed all the physical leaf debris I can with nets, leaf rakes, and - I believe - my sand filter. What's left is so tiny that it's visible, but nothing I can simply scope out physically. That's why I thought the floc was a good idea. That, and now my CYA is high, I'm going to need to most likely exchange some pool water for fresh water, and I would do this anyway if I did the floc. Do you really think it's a bad idea to floc it once more? I don't see any possible way to get this material out of the system other than floc'ing, but I'm open to all suggestions. Again, I don't have the test kit yet, and don't really want to wait and do nothing until it comes.

I do have some good news, it looks like test kit shipped today without the SpeedStir, but that's fine. Hopefully I'll have the kit by this weekend, or certainly next week I would think.

And, all this time I thought my original pump was a 1.5hp, but it's not, it's a 1.0hp. So I removed the old pump, and installed the new Blue Wave 1.5hp pump this afternoon, and it's really putting out a lot more water.

I will certainly update as soon as I get the test kit, but if there's anything I can do in the meantime, I'd be happy to try.

Thank you again!

-AC
 
Maybe I could ask this, what is the best way to remove the type of material I'm talking about? Again, this isn't something I can remove with a net of any kind. Should I be trying to pull this material through my filter? Or, should I keep the filter in recirculate, and just keep trying to blindly vacuum to waste as best I can (which I have been doing). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you for your time and consideration!

-AC
 
Thank you again for the reply! I fully understand I don't want the floc in the filter, I vacuum that to waste as much as possible. And at this point, I've vacuumed so many times since I put the floc in, I don't think there could possibly be much of it left to worry about. That's really all I've been doing for the last week and a half or so; vacuuming to waste, recirc, leaf rake blindly, repeat, and I am very sure have removed 99% of anything that can be trapped with a net or leaf rake, I just have to get the little white bits of stuff I can see in the water column.

I have heard about adding some DE to the sand filter, and could see how this would make the filter more efficient. Should I look further into this? What other option is there? I'm wondering if there's some kind of a simple mechanical filter I could put in the pool temporarily, just to try to pull some of this stuff out. Or, is it possible to chemically oxidize this much waste with bleach, if I was to add the correct amount over the correct period of time, as per the SLAM method? I understand it would take significantly more bleach, but maybe that's what I have to do.

Any other ideas?

Thank you for your help!

-AC
 
OK, so I read the link you provided on how to add the DE; quicker, easier project than I first assumed. Two questions though; do I need special DE from a pool store? I do have a farm and feed store near me that would have both food grade, and farm grade. And, is this a permanent thing, or do I replace the sand down the road?

Thank very much!

-AC
 
You are too early in the process to bother with DE in your sand filter.
But, you use Pool grade DE and you add small amounts (1/4 to 1/2 cup) and then when you backwash it is removed.

You need to follow the SLAM Process process. You need the test kit to do that.
Until you get your kit, it will be safe for you to add 5 ppm of FC per day using liquid chlorine or bleach. No more solid chlorine products!

When you get your test kit, post up your numbers and we can provide some guidance from there.

Take care.
 
You are too early in the process to bother with DE in your sand filter.
But, you use Pool grade DE and you add small amounts (1/4 to 1/2 cup) and then when you backwash it is removed.

You need to follow the SLAM Process process. You need the test kit to do that.
Until you get your kit, it will be safe for you to add 5 ppm of FC per day using liquid chlorine or bleach. No more solid chlorine products!

When you get your test kit, post up your numbers and we can provide some guidance from there.

Take care.
Hi, mknauss! Thank you so much for the reply, that was basically what I was looking for. Yes, my test kit is on order, and I know I'm disadvantaged, but I want to keep my sanitizer level up so I don't have an algal or bacterial bloom on top of my current problems. I was also already reconsidering the DE in the filter anyway. There's no doubt that I am clueless with pools, but the way I see it I think that adding DE to the sand with would indeed allow it to capture finer particles, but also shorten the life of the sand filter. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'd prefer not to do that to the filter just yet.

So let me please ask to be clear: if I had the test kit, I could then safely and effectively begin to SLAM the system. As part of the SLAMing process, would the organic material be oxidized by the bleach, and eventually the pool would clear? And I know as part of the process I would still be vacuuming any accumulated debris, which I do anyway. But is it possible, with the correct level of FC over a period of time, to clear this stuff out chemically? Even if it's extra bleach, maybe this is the way for me to go. My test kit actually shipped today, so hopefully it arrives very soon, but I really appreciate any steps or anything I can do in the meantime.

Thank you again for your help!

-AC
 
So let me please ask to be clear: if I had the test kit, I could then safely and effectively begin to SLAM the system. As part of the SLAMing process, would the organic material be oxidized by the bleach, and eventually the pool would clear?

Yes. That is what the SLAM Process does.

The DE will not compromise your sand filter. It will make it filter out fine solids. It will most likely cause you to backwash sooner. But that is for later.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
In the meantime, add your daily chlorine as Marty said, run your filter 24/7, backwashing when pressure rises 25% over normal clean pressure, and brush and vacuum!

When I was SLAMming a couple of years ago, I got in (once I could see) and ran in circles, creating a whirlpool effect that caused all debris to settle in the middle. Then I zapped with the vacuum!
 
In the meantime, add your daily chlorine as Marty said, run your filter 24/7, backwashing when pressure rises 25% over normal clean pressure, and brush and vacuum!

When I was SLAMming a couple of years ago, I got in (once I could see) and ran in circles, creating a whirlpool effect that caused all debris to settle in the middle. Then I zapped with the vacuum!
HI again! Thank you for the advice! Yes, I actually did the same thing with my fishing net, trying to push the leave and stuff into the center of the pool, even before I had the filter running. Good tip though ;-)

Yes, so for now I'm going to leave the filter running in filter mode, and patiently wait for my test kit. I am already thinking that installing the new, larger pump is making a difference. And I will continue to vacuum, brush, skim and whatever I can to keep getting anything out of it. Also, I am going to add a small amount of LIQUID chlorine each day, I just can't afford to have it go green or worse now, my wife will kill me, lol! Once I get my test kit, I will begin the slam in earnest, and let the chlorine burn off any remaining organics.

Thanks again to everyone for their help, I really appreciate it!

-AC
 
Hello everyone!

I'm thrilled to say my TF-100 test kit came today. I'm also feeling much, much more relaxed as the pool is FINALLY showing signs of clearing. It's still pretty cloudy, but I can now visually verify that there is indeed a bottom to the pool ;-)

Here are my test results; I did everything twice to confirm. It looks like I have some things still out of whack, for example, my total alkalinity. I'm not sure how that got so high, could there have been some kind of alk booster in the powdered shock or pucks I was using? Anyway, I would be very grateful if someone could take a look at my water parameters and help me figure out what to do next. But again, I'm happy, the wife is happy, so hopefully we're somewhere on the right track.

FC: 25ppm
CC: 1ppm
pH: 7.5
TA: 180ppm
CH: 225ppm
CYA: 50ppm

Thank you in advance for your help!

-AC
 
Actually, it doesn’t look too bad. FC is too high to get a handle on PH, and it is higher than your SLAM level for your CYA. You want to target 20 FC during your SLAM.

Because your TA is so high, it would be good to get an idea of what your PH really is. So, if you can stomach it, don’t add FC for the next day or so. Keep testing FC, and when it drops to 10, test PH. If it is high, you should bring it down to 7.2, which will also lower TA a little. Then you can get FC back to 20, and continue to SLAM.
 
Hello and good morning, everyone!

I first want to say that the pool is looking even better than ever this morning. Not crystal clear, but I can now really see the bottom clearly, so I'm relieved for sure. I was very worried when I had first posted, it had been a week and a half since I uncovered the pool, and I felt like I was making no progress. The filter couldn't run more than a few hours before it needed to be backwashed, so there was no way I could leave it running overnight or when we were gone. Starting yesterday, it's finally clean enough to the point where the filter can be run overnight and then some, so from now on I can pretty much leave it going 24/7 trough the SLAM process. The new filter and pump we installed seem to be working great now, so that's all good news.

Actually, it doesn’t look too bad. FC is too high to get a handle on PH, and it is higher than your SLAM level for your CYA. You want to target 20 FC during your SLAM.

Because your TA is so high, it would be good to get an idea of what your PH really is. So, if you can stomach it, don’t add FC for the next day or so. Keep testing FC, and when it drops to 10, test PH. If it is high, you should bring it down to 7.2, which will also lower TA a little. Then you can get FC back to 20, and continue to SLAM.

Hi again! Thank you very much for your advice! Now that I have the test kit, I have no problem not adding chlorine. I do see where my FC is high, which I understand impacts pH testing. I would be happy to follow your suggestions if you think that's the best way to go, but I wanted to ask a question, please. My process recently has been to vacuum to waste every morning (even when I could hardly see into the pool at all). I can now clearly see the bottom, and I can't see any debris, but what would happen if I again vacuumed to waste this morning, and then topped up with fresh water? To me, almost all of my parameters seem high or at the maximum level, so wouldn't a little water change work to lower everything just a touch, and then maybe I could proceed from there? This makes sense to me, but I wanted to ask first. In the meantime, I am going to get another set of tests in this morning.

Thank you very much for your help, I really appreciate it!!!

-AquaCat
 
Nope don't mess with ph, do commence with SLAM Process!

Welcome to TFP!

If you can do a water change, it won't hurt :)

Hi, splashpad! Thank you for your help! I was still thinking that a small water change couldn't be anything but beneficial. I've been vacuuming every morning anyway, so I think I want to give it one more good vacuum to waste, top it off, and go from there. This makes the most sense to me, so I think I will try that this morning. I will report back with test results later.

Thank you to everyone for your help, I really appreciate it!

-AC
 
Speaking as a wife, if she would be interested in any "proof" that TFP does get and maintain crystal clear water, there are current and past threads with pictures of black swamps that have been cleared with SLAM Process!

- - - Updated - - -

P.s. it's great to have an informed member!
 
Alright, so here's where I am this morning without having done any vacuuming or water change yet. I noticed my TA went down by 30ppm, is this a typical fluctuation due to buffering the system? Or if not, then one of my two test results (last night and this morning) is off. But That's OK, I'm going to go vacuum and top off now, and I will do another set of tests after that. I think maybe two hours of circulating after topping off should be good to do the test?

And, do I really even need to worry much about the Calcium Hardness Test? I have a vinyl lined above ground pool, and my current CH is 225ppm.

FC: 19ppm

CC: 1ppm
pH: 7.5
TA: 150ppm
CH: 225ppm
CYA: 50ppm

Thank you!!

-AquaCat
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.