I am starting to get very frustrated with the PH in our pool. We had a similar issue last year. But last year our pool was smaller and eventually we just gave up. This pool is larger and the fact that it isn’t crystal clear is bugging me! I know the shock won’t work properly if the PH isn’t right. But no matter what we have done, the PH absolutely will not lower. It’s always 8.0. We are using Chlorox Pool & Spa PH Down. The pool should be 14,300 (approx) gallons. We have done 18oz, 32oz, 30oz, and finally last night I did 40oz of PH down with still ZERO reduction in PH. I am no math whiz by far but husband is and he js who did the 30oz. Then middle of the night I was awake and decided to do the 40oz. The pump is a sand pump and is functioning properly. I don’t know what to do except just except it and let t be ugly water all season again. Help me please!!
PH Problem!
- Thread starter WillowWild
- Start date
Welcome to TFP! It is a fallacy that chlorine will not work in a pool if the pH is too high when there is stabilizer in the water. So that is a bit of misunderstanding on your part.
Also what is the shock you're referring to? We tend to not use that word as it has too many different meanings. We tend to teach to use liquid chlorine as a method of adding your daily chlorine to your pool.
Additionally I highly recommend you switch to muriatic acid instead of solid forms of pH reducers as it is more effective and will not add sulfates to your water.
How does your water look, and what test kit are you using?
I just realized that you stated the water does not look good. That is due to a lack of chlorine. You should follow the SLAM Process process to clear up your pool and then ensure you maintain the proper FC level that is a function of your stabilizer, cya, level according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
Welcome to the forum.
To really understand what is going on in your pool we will need a complete set of test results from a proper testing kit, not a pool store.
At TFP we teach pool owners to cut the cord to the pool stores and take control of their pool, the first step is the investment into a quality test kit, the next step is to follow our advise.
Does this sound like something that you are interested in?
We have the Chlorox kit with Phenol Red and OTO drops. I am not all that well versed in pools. I read on the container of the shock that came with the pool (we were given the pool) about PH needing to be in line before adding shock. And since the pool has always been cloudy, I assumed that information was correct. I have used so much dang PH Down, I cannot afford to keep throwing it away with no results. If I do liquid chlorine, would that be bleach??
go over to tftestkits.net and get the TF-100. I was using something similar to what you are using and it was an eye opening experience when I got the kit. I have saved so much money so far this season that the cost of the kit has been paid for by me not adding needless chemicals. Having a good test reading will go a long way in the fine folks here helping you; it really is that important.
Check your total alkalinity and then use PoolMath to calculate the amount of muriatic acid to use to lower the pH. It will work. Do not increase the total alkalinity.
Then, use PoolMath to calculate the amount of liquid chlorine to add based on your cyanuric acid level.
Liquid chlorine is sodium hypochlorite. You can get it as pool chlorine at about 10% or 12.5% or you can get it as bleach at 8.25%.
If you get bleach, only get regular bleach with the percentage of sodium hypochlorite on the label.
Do not get easy pour, splashless, outdoor, scented or other special bleach.
Then, use PoolMath to calculate the amount of liquid chlorine to add based on your cyanuric acid level.
Liquid chlorine is sodium hypochlorite. You can get it as pool chlorine at about 10% or 12.5% or you can get it as bleach at 8.25%.
If you get bleach, only get regular bleach with the percentage of sodium hypochlorite on the label.
Do not get easy pour, splashless, outdoor, scented or other special bleach.
Well guys I got the muriatic acid, waiting to see if that gets the PH down. Also got bleach instead of shock but I didn’t want to do them at the same time. But I need to get my FC up soon or we will start getting algae. Its HOT here in Oklahoma already.
Pour the acid into the return stream for good mixing and test in about 10 minutes.
What is the total alkalinity and how much acid did you add?
What is the total alkalinity and how much acid did you add?
Smart to not do the MA and chlorine at same time! You only need to wait about 30 minutes between the additions, and you want to make sure your pump is on.
Do you have a test kit? Are you using Pool Math to tell you how much of each that you need?
I don’t have a different testing kit yet. Still the Chlorox one. I mixed the MA with pool water in a glass measuring cup while wearing gloves. I added 20oz. I used poolcalculator.com My pool is 14,364 gallons. Yes pump on.
Really need to have a good test kit so you can be sure of your additions.
Also, just to be safe, make sure you add acid to water, not water to acid.
Also, just to be safe, make sure you add acid to water, not water to acid.
Keep glass away from the pool.
What is the total alkalinity?
For your pool, I get 16,500 gallons. Assuming a TA of 120 and a starting pH of 8.2, you need to add 146 oz of 31.45% muriatic acid. Pour it into the return stream and then retest in about 10 minutes.
What is the total alkalinity?
For your pool, I get 16,500 gallons. Assuming a TA of 120 and a starting pH of 8.2, you need to add 146 oz of 31.45% muriatic acid. Pour it into the return stream and then retest in about 10 minutes.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,156
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
How old are your reagents? Strange you've been dumping in PH reducers and have seen no movement.
i think the chlorox test may be your problem . 20 oz of MA will bring down your PH no doubt about it . As all here will tell you that you need a full set of test numbers to find out if there is a hidden problem and really get the help you need. That is one of 2 kits they recommend here tf100 from TFTestkits.net or theTaylor K-2006C These great people have saved me hundreds of $$$$ and have taught me how to take care of my pool. I have a $200 test kit i bought (PRE TFP) that i dont even try to use now . I love my pool and will all ways be a TFP supporter. AS a okie too i hope you can get your pool TF with the help here.
ATM I cannot afford a $200 test kit. So I have no way of testing TA. The PH continues to be 8.0. I tested tap water and bottled water with the same kit and got different results than I am getting from the pool, so I am not sure if the kit is to blame. I just added more MA (2nd time today), and will see what happens. Then I am probably going to go ahead and add the chlorine because we really need to not get algae started.
The test kits we’re recommending are not $200.
I hear you. It’s hard sometimes to scrape together yet more money to throw at the pool. But without knowing what is going on in that water, we simply cannot give you a targeted approach to clearing it or keeping it clear And it will likely cost you more in the long run if you keep throwing stuff at it without knowing what it needs.
By the way, no one is saying you can’t add chlorine. You just need to wait 30 minutes or so after adding the MA.
I hear you. It’s hard sometimes to scrape together yet more money to throw at the pool. But without knowing what is going on in that water, we simply cannot give you a targeted approach to clearing it or keeping it clear And it will likely cost you more in the long run if you keep throwing stuff at it without knowing what it needs.
By the way, no one is saying you can’t add chlorine. You just need to wait 30 minutes or so after adding the MA.
Mendy48
Bronze Supporter
Hello WW!!! the test kits aren't $200. Well, the TF-100 I got wasn't. I would love to chime in here on what you should do, but I have no numbers. It will be to your benefit to get the test kit. Having results of FC, CC, CYA, TA, pH, CH would be very beneficial. It would be nice to know what your TA level is. I'm curious about that. I believe you may be adding without getting accurate measurements of what you already have. Look into getting the TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006C.