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Thread: Converted now w/ ?'s

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    Converted now w/ ?'s

    Great site. Found it last year and my compliments. Here is my story.

    First the good stuff.

    Above Ground Pool 18 x 33 ~ 16,000 gals - Vinyl Liner - Constructed last year.
    DE Filter - Full Sun 75% of the day.

    I was given free Baquacil chems and used them for the first season last year. No problems at all. Started this season with a good start and then the pool got cloudy about June. Used up all the remaining Baq chems I had and then decided to convert to BBB. Dumped in bleach, watched the pretty colors and then the water was clear. Had tons of Baquagoo and vacummed it all out. Changed DE about 3 times and then pool was crystal clear. DE filter has been running great for about a month with no pressure increase. Pool has been crystal clear ever since.

    I have the Taylor Test KIT which can check for PH, CL, TA, CYA and CH. So here are my current #'s.
    PH - 7.4
    FC - 0
    CC - 2
    TA - 70
    CYA - 60
    CH - Low - doesn't really bother me since I don't have a plaster pool

    I am using 12.5% liq chlorine which I add about 50 oz every other day.

    After reading everything on this site and the conversion instructions I am still stuck on why my CC is still high. After I add the liq chlorine at night and test about after an hr and my FC is about 3 and my CC is 5 which is what I expect. The next day my FC is 0 and my CC is about 2-3. I know what I have to do is to shock the pool and raise up the FC high enough so I can pass the overnight test FC test. Problem is with only a few more weeks in my pool season (live in PA) I don't want to shock the pool only to tell the kids they can't swim for a few days.

    Here is my question.
    What is the problem with continuing on with a CC level that will not drop to 0 and my FC level that doesn't last?

    I have no problems with the pool and the water remains crystal clear. I still add 50 oz of the 12.5% liq chlorine every other day.

    My plan would be to shock the pool at the end of the season for closing and then deal with the CC at the beginning of the spring.
    I can always find something to fix on your "perfect" pool

  2. Back To Top    #2
    MikeInTN's Avatar
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    Re: Converted now w/ ?'s

    The problem I see with it is twofold; (a) you've got something consuming the chlorine, whether it be algae, left over baq ****, or some other organic - something's in the water. (b) When your FC goes to 0, you have no chlorine for santitation for killing bacteria, pathogens, and whatever's consuming your chlorine to begin with. Personally, I'd shock the pool, but then again, I don't have kids that want to swim in my pool. I don't have any qualms with swimming in FC levels up to shock level, but you have to go with what your comfortable with. At the very least, I would add enough extra chlorine to compensate for what's being consumed so that your FC doesn't drop below the minimum for your CYA level.

    Just my .02.
    24' x 52" AGP - approx 13,500 gallons
    Pentair Optiflo 1 hp/2sp pump w/ Swimpro Voyager 150 sq ft cartridge filter
    Intex 8110 SWCG
    "Fear the Schnauz!"

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Converted now w/ ?'s

    Can I "Amen" what Mike said?

    I'd go ahead and shock it now. If you do it right and consistently hold the FC to shock level you're probably only talking a couple of days.

    I'm also like Mike I'm comfortable swimming up to shock level.

    I'll second the last part too
    I would add enough extra chlorine to compensate for what's being consumed so that your FC doesn't drop below the minimum for your CYA level.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    Ohm_Boy's Avatar
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    Re: Converted now w/ ?'s

    ...and with a CYA level of 60, your shock level is 24 - if you don't reach and keep a level near this, you're only feeding your chlorine to whatever is consuming it.
    Personally, I'd rather swim in shock-level chlorine than in zero FC.
    [center:1kpalu48]Helpful Links: Pool School | CYA/Chlorine Chart | Pool Calculator[/center:1kpalu48]

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Converted now w/ ?'s

    Shock the pool in the evening before bed, the next day let them swim. It's perfectly safe to swim up to shock level, some report swimming at higher and not melting ... (High CC's can cause irritation to swimmers.)
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: Converted now w/ ?'s

    Tell the kids in no uncertain terms that they are not to pee in the pool, otherwise the chemistry is off and they cannot swim until it is correct.

    Then tell them that if going inside is too much trouble, then they can go over there by the hose and pee in the grass and then wash off themselves and the grass with the hose before getting back into the pool.
    23,000 gallon in ground pool with rock waterfall and spillover spa, Aqualink control system, Polaris 380 cleaner, Purex Triton Clean&Clear Plus cartridge filter. Located in The Woodlands, Texas.

    Pool owner since Nov 2008, Trouble Free since April 2009. Happy to help when I can.

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: Converted now w/ ?'s

    Ok thanks for the advice. I'll go ahead and shock since it will be a rainy weekend and let you now the results.
    I can always find something to fix on your "perfect" pool

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    Bob_Funk's Avatar
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    Re: Converted now w/ ?'s

    Quote Originally Posted by zugget
    I still add 50 oz of the 12.5% liq chlorine every other day.
    Quote Originally Posted by zugget
    After I add the liq chlorine at night and test about after an hr and my FC is about 3 and my CC is 5 which is what I expect. The next day my FC is 0 and my CC is about 2-3.
    I think you need to read some articles in pool school

    You say your pool is 16,000 gals & you add 50 oz of 12.5% every OTHER day

    You also say your FC is 0 the morning after you add your chlorine.

    In 16,000 gallons 50 oz of 12.5% only raises your free chlorine 3.1 ppm

    With a CYA level of 60 your FC should never drop below 5 ppm

    Your chlorine level is 0 at least 75% of the time & under you minimum of 5ppm (safe sanitation level with CYA of 60 ppm) 100% of the time.
    I consider myself very lucky I found this site before the pool store found me-pool owner since Nov 2008- Stunningly clear 17,000 gal fiberglass pool, thanks to this site, installed in 1982-24" 3.1sq. ft sta-rite sand filter, 1 hp - 2 speed wisperflo pump-WFDS-4

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Re: Converted now w/ ?'s

    thanks for all the advice. I went ahead and shocked the pool. Everything is all good. Chemcicals are in balance and my CC has droped to 0.
    I can always find something to fix on your "perfect" pool

  10. Back To Top    #10
    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Converted now w/ ?'s

    Thanks for the update
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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