Sub panel to pump and heater

[Caupsguy]

Any suggestions on wiring pump and heater with 120 volts separately from sub panel pump is 5.1 amps and heater is 5.8
i know I’m running them under ground with flexible conduit and running each unit to a double pole 20 amp breaker with a junction box in between???

 

[Caupsguy]

Example

 

[Caupsguy]

Re: wire from pump and heater to sub- panel

Hello everyone, any suggestions on wiring from the pump to the sub-panel then from the heater to the sub-panel. I’m thinking
flexible metal conduit down the wall running underground from the sub-panel to a junction box.
Then individually wire the pump and heater in the junction box
.both are wired for 110 volts and using no more than 6 amps each I’m going to use a double pole 20 amp breaker for both the pump and heater

 

[BBailey]

You need to hire an electrician to perform the work for you.

 

[CJadamec]

You don't "need" an electrician but sometimes they are handy if you aren't familiar with basic wiring.

You do however need to use rigid conduit in that trench. PVC conduit is fine and its pretty easy to work with.

You can even get away with running a single conduit you don't need 2 different ones.

If it were me I would run a 1 inch conduit from you subpanel over to your pump and heater in that trench you have. Where the conduit comes out of the trench by the pump and heater you will use a line box ( or LB as electricians call them) to transition to two short lengths of flexible pvc conduit. 1 to the pump and 1 to the heater.

From there you get confusing... you say both units are 110 volt but you are running them to dual pole breakers that doesn't add up. Can you snap a pic of the inside of your subpanel?

I guessing your pump is a 220v and the heater is 110v.

 

[Caupsguy]

Thanks a lot. Two 30 amp breakers and two 20 amp breakers

 

[Caupsguy]

The pump is a Hayward Max-Flo VS. 230vac 60hz single phase. 5.9 amps.

 

[CJadamec]

In that box you have a single dual pole 30 amp breaker and (2) 20 amp breaker.

As long as the power is off to the box can you post a pick of what it looks like on the inside of the bow so I can see how those breakers are set up?

From there we can get you off to running wires.

 

[Caupsguy]

Yes I will do that tomorrow thanks chuck for all your help

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks

 

[Caupsguy]

Hey Chuck, so here’s the inside of the sub. Finished plumbing the gas line per city code.

 

[CJadamec]

Ok so that 30 amp dual pole breaker should be a 20 amp gfci breaker.

One of those 20 amp breakers should be a gfci breaker.

The green ground wire should have it's own terminal strip that is isolated from the neutral bus that it is currently connected to.

From there young will need 1 inch conduit to go from the breakers to the pump/heater.

You will also need some THHN/THWN wire. Enough wire to go thru the conduit for 3 black, 1 white, and 2 green.

 

[Caupsguy]

Congrats on your expert level chuck!!! All us newbies are lucky to have you “experts” helping us save money, time and headaches while we dial in our pools.
Just so I understand your answer......... I need THHN Wire:
3 black, 1 white and 2 green
run in 1 inch conduit and My green ground in the sub needs to have its own bus bar

 

[jza1736]

Yes you need a terminal strip for the ground wire

You need either a (15 amp or 20 amp) 2 pole gfci breaker to replace the 2 pole 30.

The white wire will go to the terminal strip where the green is now.

The only thing I would do different is pull 1 black and 2 red. That way you know the red go to the pump and the black and white to the heater.

All wires should be #12 thhn or thwn

 

[CJadamec]

Adding a red wire isn't a bad idea it just means buying another spool of wire. Marking the wires with tape works as well. Or taping two bundles of wire together would also keep the wires identified.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-350-ft-12-3-Black-White-Green-Stranded-CU-CoilPAK-SIMpull-THHN-Tri-Wire-58453303/205476070

You are looking for something like this. Stranded thhn wire in 12 gauge.

This pack is way more wire than you need by the looks of your pictures.

 

[Caupsguy]

Thanks for your help........so 12/3 thhn wire
1 black
1 white
1 red

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you chuck. I’m gonna add some more receptacles so I will draw out what I want to do and get your thoughts.

 

[CJadamec]

You are going to need 9 wires in your conduit which is why I suggested the 1" conduit.

3 wires are for the heater black/white/green
3 wires are for the pump black/red/green or black/black/green or black/white/green
3 wires are for your equipment pad outlet black/white/green

That pool of wire I linked to is more than you need but it will be easier to work with.

You still need a 20 amp dual pole GFCI breaker to replace the 30 amp breaker for your pump. This is a code requirement for your pump.

One of the 20 amp breakers should be replaced with a GFCI breaker for your heater. The heater needs GFCI protection per code this is the better way to do it.

You can either get a another 20 amp GFCI breaker or get a GFCI outlet for your equipment pad outlet.

Make sure you get the green ground wire its own bus bar that get screwed directly to the metal of the breaker box. Also remove any screw or piece of metal that connects the neutral bus to the metal of the breaker box.

 

[Caupsguy]

Chuckkkk. Thank you man!!! That’s what I needed.......step-by-step.......wire-by-wire. I really appreciate your patience and help. Can’t wait to show you after I get it done

Is there a reason to have an outlet at the equipment pad??

 

[CJadamec]

There is supposed to be a 20 GFCI protected outlet within 20 feet of the pool on a circuit separate from the pump per code. Typically there is an outlet next to the pump and filter because for one reason or another you will end up needing to plug something in out there. Having one right there at the pump will generally reduce the need for extension cords.

 

[Caupsguy]

Awwww thanks chuck. Will do

 

[CJadamec]

I've never had someone so thankful when they were told to buy all this expensive stuff.