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LWillis

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Aug 25, 2009
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Hello all, What a great site with so muc information. I'm reading up on the BBB method and definitely will look at converting to this method. But what brought me here in the first place?

Had a problem earlier in the summer with green water. I kept the chemicals correct, kept the sides and bottom clean, but had a green color to the water. After several attempts and suggestions from the local pool store owner, we determined high phosphates and got rid of those with PhosFree. I hadn't tested for phosphates prior to this, wasn't aware of them until now.

After 2 weeks of great pool water, it suddenly turned the same green color again. I have now been fighting this for weeks since and nothing seems to help. Every time I take a water sample in they tell me all the tests are "on the money". Out of desperation I've added several treatments of "Metal Free" thinking I had some type of metals problem. But still no good. I've been a pool owner for many years and never had a problem like this before. I welcome any and all advice.

Pools size = Oval 18x32 48" above ground
300 Lb sand filter

Todays numbers
Total Hardness - 300 ppm
TC - 3 ppm
FC - 3 ppm
PH - 7.6
TA - 120 ppm
CA - 50 ppm
Phophates - 0
Total Disolved Solids - 0
Copper test - Also 0

Water.........................GREEN :rant:
 
Welcome to TFP.

Without knowing your CYA level, I can't be sure, but your chlorine is almost certainly too low. The numbers most people go by don't apply to stabilized chlorine pools, and you often need levels substatially higher. Post your CYA level and we can recommend a shock level that will clear the pool.

Read the Pool School article on defeating algae pool-school/defeating_algae for more information.

No conversion is required to use our methods. Just quit buying the overpriced stuff at the pool store and start buying the identical chemicals at a much lower price at the grocery store.

You were scammed on the phosphate deal.
 
I thought I had posted it. I used CA instead of CYA. I assume you mean Cyanauric Acid. Mine is 50 PPM.

I am reading the article you referenced now. And I found the pool calculator. What great tools. If I am using it ocrrectly I think it is telling me I need to shock at a level of 16 ppm. Sound correct?

I'm going to read the article again as I am not sure over what time period these shock levels need to be maintained. Maybe I missed it.
 
LWillis said:
I thought I had posted it. I used CA instead of CYA. I assume you mean Cyanauric Acid. Mine is 50 PPM.

I am reading the article you referenced now. And I found the pool calculator. What great tools. If I am using it ocrrectly I think it is telling me I need to shock at a level of 16 ppm. Sound correct?

I'm going to read the article again as I am not sure over what time period these shock levels need to be maintained. Maybe I missed it.
Click to expand...

Somewhere in the 16-20 range is where you want to be for shocking. You want to stay around 6ppm for chlorine most of the time, and never let it drop below 4ppm at a CYA of 50ppm.

The key point for shocking to eliminate algae is to check the chlorine very frequently. every few hours at first, then several times a day when the chlorine starts to hold. Consistent high chlorine levels are the fastest way to clearing the pool.
 
I've ordered my high range chlorine test kit and will start the recommended chlorination of the pool as soon as it arrives. I will let you know if successful. Thanks again.
 
I've started the chlorine treatment as outlined on this forum. FC level is up to18 ppm and holding. Has been that way overnight. That is the recommeded shock value, but do I need to go higher? Is there a level that is "too much". I'm sure I don't have mustard algae as I don't have any slime on the walls or bottm of the pool. But I'm wondering if I should increase to the mustard algae shock levels??

Currently

Hardness - 125 ppm
TA - 120 ppm
TC- 19 ppm
FC- 18 ppm
CC - 1 ppm
PH 7.4
CYA 50 ppm
Phopshates 0
TDS 0
 
How long does FC leves need to be at shock level

Merged threads to maintain history. :wink: Butterfly

I've started the chlorine treatment as outlined on this forum. FC level is up to 18 ppm shock level and holding. Has been that way overnight (past 24 hours). That is the recommeded shock value, but do I need to go higher? Is there a level that is "too much". I'm sure I don't have mustard algae as I don't have any slime on the walls or bottm of the pool. But I'm wondering if I should increase to the mustard algae shock levels??

Currently

Hardness - 125 ppm
TA - 120 ppm
TC- 19 ppm
FC- 18 ppm
CC - 1 ppm
PH 7.3
CYA 50 ppm
Phopshates 0
TDS 0
 
Re: How long does FC leves need to be at shock level

Have you read pool school-how to shock your pool & overnight free chlorine loss test?

Why are you shocking? Is your pool green, cloudy, or some other reason?

What kind of pool surface do you have? You should put your pool info in your signature.

Also how are you testing your water, strips, drop test, pool store?
 
Re: How long does FC leves need to be at shock level

Sorry,
Will repost the original problem.

Had a problem earlier in the summer with green water. I kept the chemicals correct, kept the sides and bottom clean, but had a green color to the water. After several attempts and suggestions from the local pool store owner, we determined high phosphates and got rid of those with PhosFree. I hadn't tested for phosphates prior to this, wasn't aware of them until now. Water cleraed up perfectly and was clear for 2 weeks.

After 2 weeks of great pool water, it suddenly turned the same green color again. I have now been fighting this for weeks since and nothing seems to help. Every time I take a water sample in they tell me all the tests are "on the money". Out of desperation I've added several treatments of "Metal Free" thinking I had some type of metals problem. But still no good. I've been a pool owner for many years and never had a problem like this before. I welcome any and all advice.

Pools size = Oval 18x32 48" above ground
300 Lb sand filter

I ordered the drop reagent chlorine test, bought plenty of liquid chlorine per the "how to clear up a green pool" in the pool school on this site.

I've started the chlorine treatment yesterday as outlined on this forum. FC level is up to 18 ppm shock level and holding. Has been that way overnight (past 24 hours). I keep checking and adding chlorine. That is the recommeded shock value, but do I need to go higher? The water is still green and has not changed yet. Is there a chlorine level that is "too much". I'm sure I don't have mustard algae as I don't have any slime on the walls or bottm of the pool. But I'm wondering if I should increase the FC up to the mustard algae shock levels??

Currently

Hardness - 125 ppm
TA - 120 ppm
TC- 19 ppm
FC- 18 ppm
CC - 1 ppm
PH 7.3
CYA 50 ppm
Phopshates 0
TDS 0
 

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Re: How long does FC leves need to be at shock level

You can lower the FC levels when.....
1. Your pool water is sparkling
2. Your CC's are .5ppm or less
3. You can hold your FC overnight without losing more than 1ppm.


I see no reason to elevate the level of FC.
 
ANy experience on how long this can take?
Click to expand...
4-5 days is not at all uncommon. Much longer if you allow the FC to frequently drop below shock value.

Elevating your FC levels (say up around 24) may Possibly accelerate the process but it causes you to burn up considerably more bleach. (with probably little added benefit)

Keep your FC where it is, and be patient. This will be the least expensive of all the stuff you've thrown in the pool and this will work......if you give it time and are consistent with your bleach dosages.
 
Now on day 3. FC stays consistently above 20 ppm. I don't have to add any liquid chlorine as the tablet chlorinator is injecting enough to keep up with the deman. Combined chlorine is consistentlt 1 ppm or less. I'll give it a couple more days and see what happens.

Water color still remains green in color.

FC = currently 22 ppm
CC = <1 ppm
ph = 7.2
CYA = 50 ppm
 
You will increase your CYA level by using the the tablet chlorinator. The higher the CYA level the higher the shock level = more chlorine needed (refer to the CYA chart). The tablets are acidic and they lower PH/TA. YOu really should be shocking with straight bleach/liquid chlorine.
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
You will increase your CYA level by using the the tablet chlorinator. The higher the CYA level the higher the shock level = more chlorine needed (refer to the CYA chart). The tablets are acidic and they lower PH/TA. YOu really should be shocking with straight bleach/liquid chlorine.
Click to expand...

I've used the tablet chlorinator for years. I know that it slowly raises the CYA but I keep this monitored. And I do a pretty good water change when lowering the water for the winter.

I have used the liquid chlorine to do the initial shock. The FC level has stabilized at 22ppm and I'm not having to add any more liquid chlorine at this point. I could shut off the tablet chlorinator and go to all liquid at this point, but thought it would be more stable to hold the shock levels this way. I'm now going on 4 days at +20 ppm and the water is still green and has not changed any. I cannot see the bottom of the pool. Shouldn't the water be gradually clearing up at this point?
 
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