I am ordering a test kit so that I will be ready to convert at any time that I run out of chems or have a water problem. What extra reagent should I order with the test kit, in consideration that I may use a lot of some of them in the conversion process.
How much extra reagent?
- Thread starter amoses
- Start date
The most important thing is to get an extra bottle of R-0871, the FAS-DPD titration reagent. Most people doing a baquacil conversion go through just over one bottle of that.
I would suggest that you order just before you begin the conversion.
You have said that you will try to use up Bacq stuff before you convert, so how long will that take you? And, more importantly, since you know that conversion may cost $100 (50 gallons bleach at $2/gallon) plus a test kit ($70) can you use up that leftover stuff and not spend $170 on extra requirements?
Personally, I'd do a financial calculation of anticipated costs of continuing with Bacq vs selling the leftovers on Craigslist and converting now. You know that you can easily use 50 gallons of bleach, at <$2gallon (Sams club $8.40/4.26 gallons), maybe more, I dunno. Maybe less with a partial water change. And, you may be done in a matter of days -- late August, lots of time to swim in sparkly clean water in Aug, and Sept. You need to search the posts to see how long it might take. I think I recall some at just a few days, like 5 or 6, and some that took way, way longer to get the last parts (CC's ) into range. It may also be that a partial drain and fill will speed that along. Your choice.
But, really, you probably want to order maybe a month or so before you do the conversion. Time to get familiar with the tests. I'd order extra 0871 (?) for FC tests and stuff for CYA -- maybe. I got my test kit in April I think (search for my first posts to know for sure) and I am not yet out of FC tests, but did run out of CYA tests. I had to test CYA a lot since I had a leak and it kept changing and it took awhile to stabelize, plus I did it a few times in a row when I should have just poured the mix back into the bottle to try again. The CYA test is tricky.
You have said that you will try to use up Bacq stuff before you convert, so how long will that take you? And, more importantly, since you know that conversion may cost $100 (50 gallons bleach at $2/gallon) plus a test kit ($70) can you use up that leftover stuff and not spend $170 on extra requirements?
Personally, I'd do a financial calculation of anticipated costs of continuing with Bacq vs selling the leftovers on Craigslist and converting now. You know that you can easily use 50 gallons of bleach, at <$2gallon (Sams club $8.40/4.26 gallons), maybe more, I dunno. Maybe less with a partial water change. And, you may be done in a matter of days -- late August, lots of time to swim in sparkly clean water in Aug, and Sept. You need to search the posts to see how long it might take. I think I recall some at just a few days, like 5 or 6, and some that took way, way longer to get the last parts (CC's ) into range. It may also be that a partial drain and fill will speed that along. Your choice.
But, really, you probably want to order maybe a month or so before you do the conversion. Time to get familiar with the tests. I'd order extra 0871 (?) for FC tests and stuff for CYA -- maybe. I got my test kit in April I think (search for my first posts to know for sure) and I am not yet out of FC tests, but did run out of CYA tests. I had to test CYA a lot since I had a leak and it kept changing and it took awhile to stabelize, plus I did it a few times in a row when I should have just poured the mix back into the bottle to try again. The CYA test is tricky.
I have decided to convert next weekend and am going to purchase needed supplies today and this week. I will begin Thursday night or Friday morning (any advise there? Should I just wait till friday morn or start Thursday evening?)
Bleach - 50 gallons? Wal Mart? Will they stock that much? LOL
Sand - what kind is best? I know they make synthetic sand should I go with that
TF100 Kit is ordered yesterday - will it get here in time? I am in Texas.
How much CYA and what kind. Should I buy it at the pool store or is there a better place to buy it?
Muratic acid to drop ph - figured I would get 4 gallons. Again, is the pool store the best place to buy this? I heard that HD and Lowes had it but that it was not as good.
What else should I get for now?
I ordered one extra R-0871 and one extra CYA reagent
Bleach - 50 gallons? Wal Mart? Will they stock that much? LOL
Sand - what kind is best? I know they make synthetic sand should I go with that
TF100 Kit is ordered yesterday - will it get here in time? I am in Texas.
How much CYA and what kind. Should I buy it at the pool store or is there a better place to buy it?
Muratic acid to drop ph - figured I would get 4 gallons. Again, is the pool store the best place to buy this? I heard that HD and Lowes had it but that it was not as good.
What else should I get for now?
I ordered one extra R-0871 and one extra CYA reagent
I get muriatic acid from Wharehouse Pool Supply. But, first I searched to see how many pool stores were near me, then I called to see what they had MA for. Some sell in multipacks. Here in Houston, we tend to have pretty good prices just due to the competition. CYA would be from pool store, just call for prices first.
I get bleach from Sam's, but do check Walmart as well as local groceries. Sam's sells 3 packs of 182 oz so that is 4.26 gallon per package. I got bleach from HEB one time at $1.50/gallon so if you see a decent brand at $1.50 to $1.80/gallon get some. Do not get any bleach from dollar stores or any bleach that does not say 6%. Pool stores have 10%, Warehouse Pool Supply, but recent price of $15 for 4 gallons is a bit pricey when you do the math to compare strengths.
You know you need at least 20 gallons, probably 40 or 50. Won't be able to return any and you won't want to store more than a few.
As for timing, it seems to go fast and furious the first day or two, then slows down to adding 2x/day, then once a day. You'll be testing and adding every hour -- which may be a reason to wait until dawn Sat to begin.... I dunno, let's hear from someone who has done it, there are several here recently.
I did recently notice a billboard for a septic tank sort of place that mentioned chlorine, not sure if that might be a better source. Seems reasonable with the number of rural areas that have well water that such places might sell chlorine also. If you check into that, let us know.
I know nothing about sand, can't help there.
I get bleach from Sam's, but do check Walmart as well as local groceries. Sam's sells 3 packs of 182 oz so that is 4.26 gallon per package. I got bleach from HEB one time at $1.50/gallon so if you see a decent brand at $1.50 to $1.80/gallon get some. Do not get any bleach from dollar stores or any bleach that does not say 6%. Pool stores have 10%, Warehouse Pool Supply, but recent price of $15 for 4 gallons is a bit pricey when you do the math to compare strengths.
You know you need at least 20 gallons, probably 40 or 50. Won't be able to return any and you won't want to store more than a few.
As for timing, it seems to go fast and furious the first day or two, then slows down to adding 2x/day, then once a day. You'll be testing and adding every hour -- which may be a reason to wait until dawn Sat to begin.... I dunno, let's hear from someone who has done it, there are several here recently.
I did recently notice a billboard for a septic tank sort of place that mentioned chlorine, not sure if that might be a better source. Seems reasonable with the number of rural areas that have well water that such places might sell chlorine also. If you check into that, let us know.
I know nothing about sand, can't help there.
Based on my experience and what other people have said, it matters more how close you are to an urban center (i.e. with an airport) than what part of the country you're in. Here in the SF Bay Area I get my stuff two days after I get the "it shipped" email, but there are 3 major airports within 50 miles. YMMV.amoses said:
This you will only get in pool stores (or pool sections of other stores). The ingredients should say Cyanuric Acid 100%, or pretty close to 100%. Use the pool calc to figure out how much you need; I'm not aware that this is any different for a baq conversion than for any other pool.amoses said:
I went to the local HD's paint section and asked for MA, they sent me to the garden section where they had 2-gal boxes clearly labeled for pool use, and it was 14.5%. The pool store has the "standard" 31.45%, or did last time I went there (will be going again soon). Check around and compare prices and strengths.amoses said:
--paulr
Hey,
I'm sure you know this but be sure to make sure the bleach is 6% or higher.Some stores will have it on sale but it may be 2%. I almost did that.
My conversion is going good.Pool is pretty clear. Still have a way to go I think before it is sparkling clear.
Deb
I'm sure you know this but be sure to make sure the bleach is 6% or higher.Some stores will have it on sale but it may be 2%. I almost did that.
My conversion is going good.Pool is pretty clear. Still have a way to go I think before it is sparkling clear.
Deb
This afternoon I bourght 44 jugs (182 OZ) of great value at Wal-mart for $2.54 each. They are 6%. I also now have new sand and 4 lbs of CYA.
OK then, now just wait on the test kit.
Does Debstar60 have any advice to offer on Friday vs Saturday start times?
Does Debstar60 have any advice to offer on Friday vs Saturday start times?
based on some of the other posts I have read, I have found that the FC does not drop as fast after dark. Therefore, I am thinking that it might be better to start tomorrow night instead of waiting till Tuesday AM. At this point I am planning on purchasing a cheap FC tester till my good kit gets here on Tuesday afternoon.
I know that is the case with fighting algae, since algae is growing when the sun shines and UV destroys chlorine if CYA is low.
I am not so sure if sunlight is important when the chlorine is being used up against Baquagoo. Perhaps it matters what your CYA is, in this case. Probably if you start as soon as possible that day, right after work, and plan to stay up sort of late tending the pool, that'd probably work fine. Still, you gotta sleep. But, at least the goo is not growing when chlorine drops off so perhaps no harm done with the time off.
I'm guess that to neutralize the Baqua in the pool ought to take a specific amount of chlorine, no matter how fast or slow you add it. So, as long as you keep the levels high, but not high enough to damage the liner (very important and the reason to wait on the better test kit) then when you start ought to not matter too much.
Do get good advice here on which kit you can use while you wait on the TF100, some may bleach out at high FC and you do not want the tester to tell you FC is too low and lead you to adding so much you damage the liner.
I am not so sure if sunlight is important when the chlorine is being used up against Baquagoo. Perhaps it matters what your CYA is, in this case. Probably if you start as soon as possible that day, right after work, and plan to stay up sort of late tending the pool, that'd probably work fine. Still, you gotta sleep. But, at least the goo is not growing when chlorine drops off so perhaps no harm done with the time off.
I'm guess that to neutralize the Baqua in the pool ought to take a specific amount of chlorine, no matter how fast or slow you add it. So, as long as you keep the levels high, but not high enough to damage the liner (very important and the reason to wait on the better test kit) then when you start ought to not matter too much.
Do get good advice here on which kit you can use while you wait on the TF100, some may bleach out at high FC and you do not want the tester to tell you FC is too low and lead you to adding so much you damage the liner.
Some have been using the one from wal mart. I am going to check there and at my pool store. Someone may advise before that tomorrow, I will check periodically when able.
Thanks,
Thanks,
When you are first starting a baquacil conversion, the chlorine gets used up so quickly fighting the baquacil that sunlight really isn't a factor. After the first couple of days, when FC levels are not falling so quickly, sunlight becomes a much more significant issue, and it is more efficient to only add chlorine in the evening.
The total amount of chlorine used varies based on a number of factors. If you only add chlorine in the evenings, you will use less total chlorine, but the conversion will take longer. In practice, switching to evenings only about half way through seems like the best compromise for most people.
The first couple of days can be done with an inexpensive test kit, but the final completion really needs a FAS-DPD chlorine test. At first the FC level falls so quickly, that it gets back into the range the cheap test kit can handle as soon as it is throughly mixed into the water. But later on the CC level climbs and very small differences in fairly high FC levels become important, so you need to precision and range of the FAS-DPD test.
The total amount of chlorine used varies based on a number of factors. If you only add chlorine in the evenings, you will use less total chlorine, but the conversion will take longer. In practice, switching to evenings only about half way through seems like the best compromise for most people.
The first couple of days can be done with an inexpensive test kit, but the final completion really needs a FAS-DPD chlorine test. At first the FC level falls so quickly, that it gets back into the range the cheap test kit can handle as soon as it is throughly mixed into the water. But later on the CC level climbs and very small differences in fairly high FC levels become important, so you need to precision and range of the FAS-DPD test.